Doing my first oil change... questions.

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OB_BRM

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It took me a week to change the oil and filter, more specfically, the filter. My local Suziki shop didn't have the oil filter wrench. I couldn't find one to fit in any of the local auto parts stores although they had several differnt sizes. I tried various strap types with no success. I finally drove 200 miles to another Suziki dealer and got a filter wrench for $4.00. Worked like a charm.
 
Alright, those black fasteners are scaring me.

I push DOWN on them to have them open up? Is that right?

So, there are two piece to the fairing... OK. But the instructions don't really talk about the lower bracket across the bottom of the cowel (the new thing for 2000's)... does the bracket just "fall out" ?
 
Remove Right side only,start at the top and pop the plastic push in tab on the right side frame,then reach down between the right side frame and you'll see a pointed plastic tap,push that in with a flat screw driver blade,next remove the smaller allen screws start at the top and remove the three on the side.Make sure the back under tail is off.Cover your brake pedal arm with a sock or something soft to save your plastic from getting scratch.Remove the two bigger screws.Now go back up to the black plastic filler unit on the top right side and pull up on the unit to pop out the push in tap that is on the under side of the unit "can't see it but it's there.Now you are ready to remove the right side plastic.You will have to start from the right side top area near your right side mirrors by pulling back on your right side plastic,be careful,now when you have the plastic apart reach on the right side inside plastic and work the pannel away from the raditor hose,once that is done your plastic should come out easy.Don't forget about the cover on your brake arm/unit or else scratches will be seen on your plastic.Now for the oil change use a Suzuki filter tool or Tucker Rocky filter tool,cost $7.00. Remove bottom oil plug 17mm and if you are going to replace the crush washer make sure the flat side sits or rest on the oil plug that you removed and the rounder side of the cruch washer mates with the bottom of your engine. GOOD LUCK and HOPE I gave good enough instructions.
 
Sounds like Cisco clearly explained it... the black tabs are fragile but you will figure it out and get over it, other than that once everything is loose just wiggle it and take you time you will see where it gets caught up. Unfortunately the black cover over the ram air duct stays attached to the right fairing.

I was intimidated at first and actually removed a little more than I had to, but now I know! And seeing how you are using OEM filters, you only need to change the filter every 2-3 oil changes. So in the future just warm up the engine and drop the drain plug. Up and running in no time!
 
Bulldog that is like pi**ing with your pants on. :)
I always change oil filter with oil.
the only reason the manual says every other one is EPA.
 
I found a filter wrench at Pep Boys that mated to the Suzi filter... $4.99.

Tomorrow night, I will start the sacrament of the Busa oil change.

Lord protect my fasteners and fairing as I attempt this magical feat...

Thanks for all the input guys... i'll be using it as I do the deed...
 
OK,
Bear with me. I'm one of those mechanically uninclined individuals, but I managed to do oil changes, plugs, and air filters many times on my VFR.

Now, I'm looking at the 'Bus, and it's new. So, I'm intimidated. Particularly because so much of the fairing looks like it needs to be removed.

(And yes, I missed CiscoSanJose's "How to" last week... I was moving!)

OK, looking in the manual, the first thing to do is to remove "screws and fasteners" on the black plastic "frame cover" thing. On of them I can deal with (has an allen head), the other is a black plastic flat thing that looks like you jamb a screwdriver under to pop up. Yes? And is this piece really related to removing the fairing?

I think removing all the "regular" fairing screws looks pretty straight forward... except perhaps you remove the screws to the bottom, tail fairing thing(where the centerstand would go) ???

Are the screws on the underside of the front (by the radiator) those plastic screws that melt just by touching a screwdriver ?

My biggest question is this... does the fairing come out as 1 gigantic piece? Or is there a left side/right side?
What about the new (for 2000) "bracket" that seems to hold the lower together?

Any quick input on this will be appreciated.

Whoops, one last thing... I'm assuming I can walk into an auto parts store with my Suzuki oil filter ($14 OTD !!!!!!!! HOLY **** !!!) and just find a cap to plug into it so my 3/8 can drive it out?

TIA.
 
Mike... sorry I don't have time to comment on all your questions... however... don't pry up on the black plastic fastners!!! use a punch or small screw driver and push in on the center... this will release the fastner and allow you to lift it out with your fingers... reassembly is the reverse... pull center up... install fastner and push down flush on the center pin to lock in place... I know the dealer can change the oil without removing the fairing... also it is two halfs not one whole piece.
 
there is a plastic fastener [ one per side]
forward of the fuel tank, it requires gentle use of a small flat blade screwdriver to
remove. purchase a shop service manual
you can llearn a lot from it.
 
CM-
There was discussion from Sukuki guys on a previous post. They strongly recommended
using the SUZUKI O.E.M. oil filter. You have had bikes in the past, so you know that the parts cost more.
ps- You may want to buy some EXTRA black plastic fastners and leave in your tool kit. I think there are at least two sizes. You will probably lose these from time to time.
(don't ask the price, they ain't cheap.)
 
You don't have to take the right side fairing off, just get it part way off to where you can fetch the oil filter out of there. God bless.
 
Oh, and don't forget to take the shift lever off to clean and lube the pivot shaft. You will be suprised at what a difference that makes. God bless.
 
Kirk

that shift lever pivot lubing is definetly the best thing to do. Also I did the rear brake lever. That improved it a lot

Also take out, clean and re copperslip front brake pads.

SS

Nuts
 
At 591 miles, my 'Bus has fresh Bel Ray 20/50 oil in her.
Thanks everyone.

It wasn't too bad; I was a bit stumped looking at the owners manual, and comparing them to the notes on this thread regarding the inner screws... up on the inside sorta by the radiator. The manual says take them out, but it didn't seem necessary. It wasn't... only the goofy "push me out" fastener.

Also, the owners manual shows "remove #3" from the black cover on the frame... I kept thinking there was a screw of some sort I had to get to... it just pops out. Cool.

Removing the fairing is not as straight forward as my VFR was... I wasn't so worried about nailing the brake lever with the fairing (I just turned the wheel), I was worried about the top tabs nailing the upper fairing as I wrestled it out.

Thanks again!
 
Dude- 20W-50 is the wrong oil. The manual specifies 10W-40. It makes a difference. These new engines are built with much tighter tolerances than old engines were, and the thicker oil won't oil the engine in time to prevent excessive wear. You can also blow an oil filter off of some engines if you zing the engine with too thick of an oil in it, especially at lower oil temperatures. I have had to replace numerous engines worn out prematurely (damaged) by too thick of an oil. This would not be covered by warranty also. And it will cost you horsepower. And fuel mileage. Do me a favor- change the oil again. You don't need to do the filter, just drop the oil and replace it. I'll sleep better tonight. Thank you.
 
you are very close to being correct about the 20/50
use 10/40 it is due that Suzuki uses small jets to contol oil and the oil will back up on start up cuasing a leak(happened more with paper base and head gaskets)
 
Take it easy Curious Mike, just let it warm up good when it is cold. While it is warming up read page 9 of your owners manual.
 
Kirk, JC.

You guys are killing me. I'm sitting here at work (after having rode the bike in), and I can't stop debating with myself if I should dump the oil or not.

It REALLY could hurt the motor?
Really?

I mean, if it could, I'm changing the oil.

But my reasoning when I bought the oil was this... "Hmm. OK, it's summer, it's been very warm in the bay area... I'll bump up the oil to 20/50."

Doing some searches on these boards, I've seen some other guys run 20/50 and no one has told them otherwise... albeit, it was synthetic.

Hurting my motor isn't worth $17.10 worth of oil and 40 minutes of nursing oil out and in.
 
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