First time oil change

[Mythos]

Shell Rotella T6 (5w40) is what i use

Same here. I change it after 2500 miles even though it's synthetic. It's not expensive. I can tell the shifting starts to deteriorate after 2500 miles just like it does with conventional oil.

I put in the exact amount of oil in that is recommended for an oil and filter change in the Gen2 service manual and it comes out perfect every time.

 

[SumDumFuk]

Howdee, just as a side note, because I care.
I hope it has fresh or newish tires on it and not the original still

Not the original but need to be change

 

[Berlin Germany]

Not the original but need to be change

welcome with that nice bike

here some more hints out of my experiances from over 35 years maintaning bikes.

when renewing the tires do the same to the fork oil and its seals
with 1600 miles the fork for 100% sure never was disassambled and the oil - as a fact - now is 16 years old and by this tripple overaged.
any forkoil, no matter in what kind of fork (standing / hanging, means usd) ever it is, when older than 4 years it is crap - in fact - it´s to be replaced!

same to all grease in all chassis bearings - also tripple overaged - esp. in all needles at the swingarm and the two steering bearings and when you got the fork and the upper ´n lower yoke out replace the fu..in ballbearings by tapered roller bearings (2 x 32006) - best you could do.

and when you renew the tires replace the original rim bearings by those from FAG, INA, SKF or similar with TWO rubber sealings at the very same second. the originals are pure crap.

and - download at very first the manual ´99-´02 (see rubb´s link above), read it from 1st to last page and then follow each line in it when starting to wrench your bike.
see also this post

When you ride an older bike you have to possess some level of mechanical skills to keep them going. A good manual is important as well. It can be frustrating to work through a problem but that's part of owning an older bike.

The alternative is to always buy new and have a warranty with their techs doing the wrenching.

note:
the ´99-´02 manual is technically absolut sufficiant (equal / similar) also for the ´03-´07 = ALL gen1.
so don´t fear it because you may think the "old" manual couldn´t fit to your ´04.
it definitely fits 100%.

 

[SumDumFuk]

welcome with that nice bike

here some more hints out of my experiances from over 35 years maintaning bikes.

when renewing the tires do the same to the fork oil and its seals
with 1600 miles the fork for 100% sure never was disassambled and the oil - as a fact - now is 16 years old and by this tripple overaged.
any forkoil, no matter in what kind of fork (standing / hanging, means usd) ever it is, when older than 4 years it is crap - in fact - it´s to be replaced!

same to all grease in all chassis bearings - also tripple overaged - esp. in all needles at the swingarm and the two steering bearings and when you got the fork and the upper ´n lower yoke out replace the fu..in ballbearings by tapered roller bearings (2 x 32006) - best you could do.

and when you renew the tires replace the original rim bearings by those from FAG, INA, SKF or similar with TWO rubber sealings at the very same second. the originals are pure crap.

and - download at very first the manual ´99-´02 (see rubb´s link above), read it from 1st to last page and then follow each line in it when starting to wrench your bike.
see also this post


note:
the ´99-´02 manual is technically absolut sufficiant (equal / similar) also for the ´03-´07 = ALL gen1.
so don´t fear it because you may think the "old" manual couldn´t fit to your ´04.
it definitely fits 100%.

Thanks , I already download the manual and I have being reading it , and I do know some of mechanic, I also been doing some maintenance to the bike , so far I flush the whole antifreeze from the bike and added new one , this week will be the oil and so on . Thanks to you and everyone for the help. Now I can said that I do know something about bikes, well old bikes lmao

 

[Berlin Germany]

@SumDumFuk

replacing coolant - there are traps to be watched
read for best results and save / long lasting head gasket this page of my homepage
(mainly written by my brother > 15 years ago)

at its very best and highly recommended by me and lots of my exp. you move the temp switch outa the rad and into the rubber pipe on RH

both pages are translated from my german original by google - so please be lenient with me and the translation

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Hayabusa Wannabe

are the two links (to my hp) proper or not?

pls tell me asap - lol - waitin for ur answer

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I see "Change coolant and bleed" and "TLs ver set"

Very smart on providing the translation for us all. Thanks.

 

[JeffSyh]

welcome with that nice bike

here some more hints out of my experiances from over 35 years maintaning bikes.

when renewing the tires do the same to the fork oil and its seals
with 1600 miles the fork for 100% sure never was disassambled and the oil - as a fact - now is 16 years old and by this tripple overaged.
any forkoil, no matter in what kind of fork (standing / hanging, means usd) ever it is, when older than 4 years it is crap - in fact - it´s to be replaced!

same to all grease in all chassis bearings - also tripple overaged - esp. in all needles at the swingarm and the two steering bearings and when you got the fork and the upper ´n lower yoke out replace the fu..in ballbearings by tapered roller bearings (2 x 32006) - best you could do.

and when you renew the tires replace the original rim bearings by those from FAG, INA, SKF or similar with TWO rubber sealings at the very same second. the originals are pure crap.

and - download at very first the manual ´99-´02 (see rubb´s link above), read it from 1st to last page and then follow each line in it when starting to wrench your bike.
see also this post


note:
the ´99-´02 manual is technically absolut sufficiant (equal / similar) also for the ´03-´07 = ALL gen1.
so don´t fear it because you may think the "old" manual couldn´t fit to your ´04.
it definitely fits 100%.

I'd be more worried about brake fluid, brake lines and coolant over fork fluid. Though it should get changed.

 

[SumDumFuk]

@SumDumFuk

replacing coolant - there are traps to be watched
read for best results and save / long lasting head gasket this page of my homepage
(mainly written by my brother > 15 years ago)

at its very best and highly recommended by me and lots of my exp. you move the temp switch outa the rad and into the rubber pipe on RH

both pages are translated from my german original by google - so please be lenient with me and the translation

 

[Berlin Germany]

I see "Change coolant and bleed" and "TLs ver set"

Very smart on providing the translation for us all. Thanks.

your welcome
as like as to all others too

that´s what i built my homepage for.

 

[rubbersidedown]

I'd be more worried about brake fluid, brake lines and coolant over fork fluid. Though it should get changed.

@Berlin Germany I need some advice on re-building some forks on a non-Hayabusa please.
I was wondering if it would be a good idea to re-use the seals and fluid on these forks,so I could save some money?

It should be fine right?

Rubb.

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Berlin Germany I need some advice on re-building some forks on a non-Hayabusa please.
I was wondering if it would be a good idea to re-use the seals and fluid on these forks,so I could save some money?

View attachment 1629342

It should be fine right?




View attachment 1629343

Rubb.

uuuuuh bros - best kidding last months.

an advice u´r asking for? here is mine - keep the pic as a little warning and put the stuff all into the trash box.

man - i saw a lot of crap since now but this fork definitely breakes all - where is it from
and how the hell might look the depending bike?

did nobody told the owner that bikes are not built for diving?

 

[rubbersidedown]

uuuuuh bros - best kidding last months.

an advice u´r asking for? here is mine - keep the pic as a little warning and put the stuff all into the trash box.

man - i saw a lot of crap since now but this fork definitely breakes all - where is it from
and how the hell might look the depending bike?

did nobody told the owner that bikes are not built for diving?

Its off to the metal scrap yard Frank,along with hundreds of pairs of forks that have been sitting in the back of my friends bike shop. They could have been back there 30 years. They all have to come apart. Separate the steel,aluminum,plastic,rubber and get the oil out.Nasty job but I'm qwik at it. Once I separate the stansion from the leg,I drain,then use the hydraulic press to crush the seal and bushings out.
Takes forever the traditional way.I ONLY have a couple hundred more to do. Just thought you would get a kick out of that picture.

I may be at it awhile.
Rubb.