Gearing The Busa For 1k's

[Mathewrussell52]

Why is that Mike? I see them run at the track quite a bit but I rarely see an air shifter on street bikes. What's the advantage in the twisties? I've run a qs for years and would never switch for street use.

How is it not? Only disadvantage i can think of is when you pull the bike up and you just keep going and going and bam that rev limiter comes out of nowhere.

I don't have either one just want one and don't see any real advantages of quick shift vs auto.

 

[Alter Ego Trip]

How is it not? Only disadvantage i can think of is when you pull the bike up and you just keep going and going and bam that rev limiter comes out of nowhere.

I don't have either one just want one and don't see any real advantages of quick shift vs auto.

QS is pretty much all self contained. I have heard about a lot more problems and tuning issues with air shifters. At the track where you are dragging your feet when launching an air shifter makes much more sense and the consistency of a button press is much better than using your foot. On the street dragging a knee, I just can't see using an air shifter over a qs. If air shifters were superior, why do all big players equip the bikes from the factory with a qs?

JMO of course.

 

[Mikew777]

Why is that Mike? I see them run at the track quite a bit but I rarely see an air shifter on street bikes. What's the advantage in the twisties? I've run a qs for years and would never switch for street use.

Correct a lot are at the track. The benefit is push button up shifting. If running an air shifter you don't shift with your foot. You shift with a button, usually the horn button but that depends on how you set it up or which set up you buy. You can do all of this full throttle just like the quick shifter. If you are using the dynojet quick shifter and buy the correct accessories to allow it to work the price is very close to using an air shifter and you get the benefit of using the push button. Also you don't have to have power commander installed for an air shifter to work. Where generally a quick shifter from dynojet requires the pc3 or pc5.

It is really so close in price that it comes down to how do you want to shift, foot or button. If you go to the drag strip at all it is a no brainer over the quick shifter because you don't have to get your feet back up in time to make a shift. Just push a button.

 

[Alter Ego Trip]

Correct a lot are at the track. The benefit is push button up shifting. If running an air shifter you don't shift with your foot. You shift with a button, usually the horn button but that depends on how you set it up or which set up you buy. You can do all of this full throttle just like the quick shifter. If you are using the dynojet quick shifter and buy the correct accessories to allow it to work the price is very close to using an air shifter and you get the benefit of using the push button. Also you don't have to have power commander installed for an air shifter to work. Where generally a quick shifter from dynojet requires the pc3 or pc5.

It is really so close in price that it comes down to how do you want to shift, foot or button. If you go to the drag strip at all it is a no brainer over the quick shifter because you don't have to get your feet back up in time to make a shift. Just push a button.

I agreed with a lot of that in my post above yours. Annatori makes a qs that doesn't require the use of a PC (standalone unit) and is less expensive than most other offerings. I also like how easy Annatori is able to tailor the shifting to your requirements.

I guess I'll just reiterate that a blanket statement of "an air shifter is the better way to go" isn't necessarily an accurate statement without taking into account the bikes use and riders habits.

 

[Mikew777]

I am no expert but I would guess that they install quick shifter over air shifters because there is no tank to hide, no hoses to run, and there is no doubt that a quick shifter is less noticeable on the bike. I would also venture to guess that if we took a general poll air shifter or quick shifter, air would win. By how much i don't know and I could be completely wrong. As for tuning them, it is really no different then quick shifter. You change the kill time on the bike.

 

[Alter Ego Trip]

I am no expert but I would guess that they install quick shifter over air shifters because there is no tank to hide, no hoses to run, and there is no doubt that a quick shifter is less noticeable on the bike.

Exactly. QS are less involved and have less things to maintain and worry about.

I would also venture to guess that if we took a general poll air shifter or quick shifter, air would win. By how much i don't know and I could be completely wrong. As for tuning them, it is really no different then quick shifter. You change the kill time on the bike.

Depends on who you poll. I've been street riding for over 20 years and have yet to ride with anyone running an air shifter. So if you poll the street crowd, I would be willing to bet, most everyone would lean QS.

Now if you poll the drag boys (whether on track or straight speed runs), the general consensus would probably be air shifter.

Which once again goes back to; a blanket statement of air > qs would be inaccurate without knowing the details of the bikes main use.

 

[Mayabusa]

so I've did my research on sprockets and I'm seeing a lot of riders using 17/40-46. I guess my questions is what's a good gearing for the 1k's if your running a roll? I ran one yesterday note* I'm 250 and the bike sits 8" out we were damn near side by side. What's a good gear set up for them? Anything helps! Thanks

I am using 17/45 on my 2011 busa, it is 9.92% gear change (down). FYI, that is 1 down (front) and 2 up (rear) on the gen 2 bike. The gear ratio is perfect, but you will have to lean forward in first under full throttle in 1st gear to keep the front wheel down. I also have the PC 5, quick shifter kit, fram filter and an exhaust upgrade. They can out run me now on the top end, as my top speed is 165 now, but the power band is unbelievable in the mid and top ranges. Don't forget to order the speedo rewrite kit, I got mine from moto-mummy for about $65 bucks. Don't be like me and find out the hard way, only order quality steel sprockets and 10,000 pound tensil strength chains, or you will regret it. Hope this helps

 

[Jake whitebird]

Vortex sprockets and triple z 530 chain is the way to go. I loved that 17/54 but yes about 6k it'd start lifting, not to mention running out of rpms( but that also was before I raised mine tom11,800). I don't remember, did u say your bike was stock?

 

[busalife2016]

I am using 17/45 on my 2011 busa, it is 9.92% gear change (down). FYI, that is 1 down (front) and 2 up (rear) on the gen 2 bike. The gear ratio is perfect, but you will have to lean forward in first under full throttle in 1st gear to keep the front wheel down. I also have the PC 5, quick shifter kit, fram filter and an exhaust upgrade. They can out run me now on the top end, as my top speed is 165 now, but the power band is unbelievable in the mid and top ranges. Don't forget to order the speedo rewrite kit, I got mine from moto-mummy for about $65 bucks. Don't be like me and find out the hard way, only order quality steel sprockets and 10,000 pound tensil strength chains, or you will regret it. Hope this helps

Well I went with 17/46 I'm going to see how that setup is I also got a speedohealer to keep everything good...

 

[busalife2016]

Vortex sprockets and triple z 530 chain is the way to go. I loved that 17/54 but yes about 6k it'd start lifting, not to mention running out of rpms( but that also was before I raised mine tom11,800). I don't remember, did u say your bike was stock?

it has full brocks AH exhaust been Dyno'd an mapped via pcv. I went with 17/46 to see how that was if I'm not gonna like it I will try 45rear. Even being 8 out it will still pull up?

 

[Jake whitebird]

It doesnt pull up now. Now rolling a skilled rider might be able to but she's solid now.