wanna have a good time, but good time=goin 200+!!!! i put up this thread to see what opinions are for hitn 200+, i'm keepin track of all mods suggested, and when it comes time to put down serious $$$ i will decide what route i wana go. I'd like to think i can get dam close with bolt-ons, from what i've heard elsewhere; but figured this site's members wud have best pool of knowledge to draw from. Commuta-what u tink bout cams, headwork/vlv springs, bored thrtl bodies, n veloc. stacks? on top of my current mods, with 38-tooth rear n OEM front sprocket?
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Gears/mods for topspeed shootout
- Thread starter BigDiesel
- Start date
I think you are going to need to be real close, if not over, the 190hp range.wanna have a good time, but good time=goin 200+!!!! i put up this thread to see what opinions are for hitn 200+, i'm keepin track of all mods suggested, and when it comes time to put down serious $$$ i will decide what route i wana go. I'd like to think i can get dam close with bolt-ons, from what i've heard elsewhere; but figured this site's members wud have best pool of knowledge to draw from. Commuta-what u tink bout cams, headwork/vlv springs, bored thrtl bodies, n veloc. stacks? on top of my current mods, with 38-tooth rear n OEM front sprocket??
Not sure what number the mods you listed will get you... looks like it's a fairly pricey list though.
Are you sure you don't want to strap an entry level turbo on her and know for sure that you have the HP to blast through the 200mph barrier?
ksana
Registered
how fast have u been?
u will need some serious seat time to reach 200
not to burst ur bubble
mirrors are out-wind issue-slows u down like 2mph
u need to learn to tuck, for the least amount of drag + to stay on the bike
gearing is a must
how much $$ u got?
nitrous is a definite +
unless u wanna go NA
u will need some serious seat time to reach 200
not to burst ur bubble
mirrors are out-wind issue-slows u down like 2mph
u need to learn to tuck, for the least amount of drag + to stay on the bike
gearing is a must
how much $$ u got?
nitrous is a definite +
unless u wanna go NA
i've already peggd my bike at least a dozen times with current setup, which from what i'm seein with C.Stringer's gear chart puts me at 190-ish, give-or-take wind drag.
for my lic. sake, won't mention where i've done this, but had throttle locked down for at least 15 sec. once....then laid off cuz i started getn tunnel vision and even @150 felt like i was doing 65! (till i flew by vehicles DOING 65)
i gues u dint read my sig-(never run mirrors)
i can only tuck in so much-chest near 50" so shoulders really broad, and 36" inseam means my legs are all over the tank.
I know i gotta switch gears-already picked up stockr front, tryn to decide which rear to run....
i can honestly get the money together for turbo, but uhmm... i really wanted to use this thing to make $$$ this season... won't mention how. But if anybody sees that dump pipe stickn out or hears the BOV whistle, there's just no way i can con anybody-I'd like to keep my power sleepr-ish, ya dig? (minus NOS-just not feelin the bottle-i know i kin hide it but too much work)
i've heard big-bore bikes too, n they don't sound stock enuf either. Guys can tell they had major work done.
soooooo-i'm still sitn here scratchin my head and showin all these posts to the lady in hopes that mebbe she'll grant my wish...keep yer fingers crossed for me folks!
Dude, you say you don't want to run nitrous, a turbo, or a big bore..... But you want to go 200+. It is going to take one of those. Reaching 200 on the interstate is different than Maxton. At Maxton you start from a stand-still. So you have to have enough power to get your bike up to 200 WITHIN the mile. When Rich Yancey first put a turbo on his bike he JUST broke 200. It is going to take a lot of power bro. So if you are planning on making extra money and hiding what you have plus being capable of 200 at Maxton then nitrous is your answer. Get her some jewelry and ask her again
cams and headwork will gain you a bit. Forget about going down in the back and instead go up in the front (sprockets). You don't need TB's bored. Having head work and cams isn't cheap though. You also have to consider long term goals. Headwork and cams aren't needed if you end up going turbo so you would be tossing money away...wanna have a good time, but good time=goin 200+!!!! i put up this thread to see what opinions are for hitn 200+, i'm keepin track of all mods suggested, and when it comes time to put down serious $$$ i will decide what route i wana go. I'd like to think i can get dam close with bolt-ons, from what i've heard elsewhere; but figured this site's members wud have best pool of knowledge to draw from. Commuta-what u tink bout cams, headwork/vlv springs, bored thrtl bodies, n veloc. stacks? on top of my current mods, with 38-tooth rear n OEM front sprocket??
On a different note, big bores don't sound much different except when you start 'emThe problem with big bores is heat!
also if you're looking for $$'s you've gotta hit a different board for that. You can forget about even being a contender if you're not running the biggest bores and haven't invested 30+k in the bike. The grudge matches are no joke and these guys have been doin the hustle for some time now.
Mirrors and pasenger pegs have to be removed for safety at Maxton. You may want to check out the Maxton site and get yourse'f a membership and rule book.
As wolfman mentioned it's alot harder to get to 200mph from a standing start in a one mile length. Once the bike is capable (power) of passing 200 then it's all about the rider. Talking about skill and yancy/shierts... they've been doing it for years! The bike isn't the top hp bike around. You just can't use 600hp in one mile.
That's the best advice i've gotten yet!!!So if you are planning on making extra money and hiding what you have plus being capable of 200 at Maxton then nitrous is your answer. Get her some jewelry and ask her again
just put in an order for Victorias-that usually does tha trick!
gunna start tubo-shopn now...oh yeah, shop mech said my chain is getn pretty stretched out-adjusters are at the limit now(he's changn tires n adding my new SS lines n EBC pads) so it'll last a bit, but I do have bout 11k miles on it, so if i'm goin turbo, what chain to buy, n any recommendations on sprockets?
THANKS TO ALL YOU GUYS FOR YOUR ADVICE/OPINIONS- REALLY APPRECIATE ALL YOUR HELP!!!
On the chain, just get something stronger than the stocker.... there are a few options available.That's the best advice i've gotten yet!!!So if you are planning on making extra money and hiding what you have plus being capable of 200 at Maxton then nitrous is your answer. Get her some jewelry and ask her again
just put in an order for Victorias-that usually does tha trick!
gunna start tubo-shopn now...oh yeah, shop mech said my chain is getn pretty stretched out-adjusters are at the limit now(he's changn tires n adding my new SS lines n EBC pads) so it'll last a bit, but I do have bout 11k miles on it, so if i'm goin turbo, what chain to buy, n any recommendations on sprockets?
THANKS TO ALL YOU GUYS FOR YOUR ADVICE/OPINIONS- REALLY APPRECIATE ALL YOUR HELP!!!
If you are going Turbo.... Congrats!
Honestly, the entry level kits are great.
Check out the Stage 1 kit at www.VelocityRacing.com :
This turbo system was designed for practical everyday use. It is also intended to bolt on to a stock motor/stock chassis and utilize gas station pump fuel. Power delivery is very docile and predictable. The motorcycle will still perform and act as stock with no hindrance from the addition of the turbo system.
While retaining the stock engine compression the turbo also adds back pressure to the engines exhaust, this actually has the Hayabusa engine running better/smoother than stock in its off idle and at lower rpm ranges. Velocity turbo systems have been extensively researched and street tested.
Parts like the fuel system are plug and play. Everything is prerigged to plumb directly in place. No cutting and splicing of hoses ensures things are right the first time. Also the fuel system is accompanied with plug and play map. To ensure a safe performing turbo system the fuel management system's pressure settings have been preadjusted and preset to the proper levels and leak tested to ensure safe trouble free performance the first time out. No need to get it on the dyno to map things over. All hardware is included in this kit, you will not need to make special trips to your parts supply stores.
Price $ 3,495
Basically, for $3,500, you bolt on about 100 rwhp!
ksana
Registered
if u got the $$
some turbos run pipes(not dump pipes) til u get into the higher stage, yes u'll still here it spool up, but hopefully it will be too late by then
never heard that about big bore kits, tho
Lee has a 600 w/ 1397 kit, no joke
w/ nitrous
lets just say he made a lot of $$ w/ that sleeper
<!--EDIT|ksana
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Maxton Basics
Link to original thread over on sh.org
THESE ARE UNOFFICIAL, REFER TO ECTA RULEBOOK TO ENSURE ACCURACY
You....
1 or 2 piece suit....must have 270 degree zipper if 2 piece. From recognizable suit manufacturer.
Back Protector
Snell Helmet....was 95 or newer...may change to 2K or newer.
Boots...suitable for racing.....
Gloves...leather racing gloves
Bike.....
ZR rated tires....must be in good condition(not bald, dry rot)....shaved for over 225(so far)
Metal Valve stems
full length chain guard...from frame to rear of back sprocket(tiger racing) or homemade
Steering damper(ZX12)
Brakes are checked front/rear.
No mirrors
Glass headlight taped(Plastic not needed)
One set of footpegs(rears removed)
Tether cord....
Throttle must close upon release from full(snap shut)
Levers must have ball ends(not broken)
Class/# displayed on both sides of bike
Saftey Wiring...
Oil fill cap, drain plug, filter
Radiator cap, overflow bottle cap taped
Rear Axle clip or cotter pin acceptable, otherwise wired
Front axle pinch bolts, and both side nuts(or contained axle end on Busa etc)
brake/clutch master covers taped over
These are for 175MPH+....
<!--EDIT|Cecil_Stringer
Reason for Edit: None given...|1144468426 -->
Link to original thread over on sh.org
THESE ARE UNOFFICIAL, REFER TO ECTA RULEBOOK TO ENSURE ACCURACY
You....
1 or 2 piece suit....must have 270 degree zipper if 2 piece. From recognizable suit manufacturer.
Back Protector
Snell Helmet....was 95 or newer...may change to 2K or newer.
Boots...suitable for racing.....
Gloves...leather racing gloves
Bike.....
ZR rated tires....must be in good condition(not bald, dry rot)....shaved for over 225(so far)
Metal Valve stems
full length chain guard...from frame to rear of back sprocket(tiger racing) or homemade
Steering damper(ZX12)
Brakes are checked front/rear.
No mirrors
Glass headlight taped(Plastic not needed)
One set of footpegs(rears removed)
Tether cord....
Throttle must close upon release from full(snap shut)
Levers must have ball ends(not broken)
Class/# displayed on both sides of bike
Saftey Wiring...
Oil fill cap, drain plug, filter
Radiator cap, overflow bottle cap taped
Rear Axle clip or cotter pin acceptable, otherwise wired
Front axle pinch bolts, and both side nuts(or contained axle end on Busa etc)
brake/clutch master covers taped over
These are for 175MPH+....
<!--EDIT|Cecil_Stringer
Reason for Edit: None given...|1144468426 -->
i know, i know...just hate NOS 'cuz after bottle runs out, I'm going from OMG fast n' powerful to ho-hum fast n' not-so-powerful...don't wana get a Popeye complex. Just lookn @ the Velocity stg.1 kit right now-looks pretty good for the $, n i want sumthin that can make power on 93 pump gas.
a buddy of mine has the ghetto kit with pipe. No holes in the fairings for air filter or dump pipe. With the spacer, on pump gas, 12lb spring, uncorrected at 282hp & 173 ft/lbs!
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