Gen 2 turbo street bike build

@Dopey

you wake me up? grin here my answer

what ever impact he´s talking about i don´t understand - sorry

what i only use for the long studs is a torque wrench with 11mm hex nut and 23 (-25) Nm and "loctite" at their outer thread.
the six M6 screws for spring holding get - again with a fitting torque wrench - only 10-12 nm WITHOUT any loctite-ing.

and
at gen1s !
to shut down the wobbly clutch force booster (again and again incorrectly called a torque limiter :banghead:) I use the simple shut-down-ring from kojak as you can see here in his shop as part of he entire set (the black ring on top of the pic)
C%2F0A48%2F351E%2F1AA6%2FPHOTO-2021-02-16-16-44-11.jpg


but always, absolutely! in connection with the stronger springs and the enforcer bracket also from his shop
the whole thing has the nice advantage that you don't need a welding device but can do the whole thing in a normally well-equipped garage yourself.

for correctness - the so called torque-limiting function at the busa is so to say only caused by the a bit too weak springs.

if you downshift the busa very hard at high engine rpms , the standard springs can no longer press the clutch disks together tightly enough and the clutch slips, and prevents that way the rear wheel from locking.
a little kind of torque limiting caused and calculated technically by suzuki engineers.

a so-called variant of a torque limiting function.

this explanation i got by our german suzuki tech support some two years ago or so by email !


a real! torque limiter necessarily requires a completely different clutch hub/ basket with a massively modified structure.
 
I think I'de spend some money on the brakes, at least better pads.
Is the suspension set up for you?
All that extra go...I'de make sure it handles and stops.
That was listed in the "other misc mods" at the end. Rob did better lines on the bike and im going to be upgrading pads. When I rode the bike stock i was surprised how bad the factory brakes were. Im assuming its because of the pads as it has brembo calipers.
 
That was listed in the "other misc mods" at the end. Rob did better lines on the bike and im going to be upgrading pads. When I rode the bike stock i was surprised how bad the factory brakes were. Im assuming its because of the pads as it has brembo calipers.
The old style MCs don't help either...mine was updated with an R1 MC and it sure made a difference.
 
That was listed in the "other misc mods" at the end. Rob did better lines on the bike and im going to be upgrading pads. When I rode the bike stock i was surprised how bad the factory brakes were. Im assuming its because of the pads as it has brembo calipers.
I know, I saw that.
Lines do nothing for stopping power, they just improve lever feel.
The right pads will help.
Race pads are no good for the street as they need kept hot to work well.
A better master cylinder would be a good idea. Aftermarket calipers would be next.
For a street ridden bike, a front strap is a terrible idea. The suspension sag needs set. Different fork springs and valving would be alot better.
The bike needs to handle and stop better stock...at quadruple the hp....
 
I know, I saw that.
Lines do nothing for stopping power, they just improve lever feel.
The right pads will help.
Race pads are no good for the street as they need kept hot to work well.
A better master cylinder would be a good idea. Aftermarket calipers would be next.
For a street ridden bike, a front strap is a terrible idea. The suspension sag needs set. Different fork springs and valving would be alot better.
The bike needs to handle and stop better stock...at quadruple the hp....
I think improved and more rigid lines do a lot for stopping power...the OEM lines flex and therefore lose pressure going to the calipers.

A better MC, aftermarket rigid lines, better pads and rotors will all add to the stopping power, even the OEM Brembo calipers are a big step up over the older Nissin ones.
 
I think improved and more rigid lines do a lot for stopping power...the OEM lines flex and therefore lose pressure going to the calipers.

A better MC, aftermarket rigid lines, better pads and rotors will all add to the stopping power, even the OEM Brembo calipers are a big step up over the older Nissin ones.
I used to think the same about lines, but not so.
They just improve the feel or shorten the lever travel.
I also love them, and put them on every bike and 4wheeler I have/had.
Rotor material can make a difference, but shapes that 'improve cooling' are such an insignificant amount that it cannot be accurately tested.
Larger diameter rotors are good, but need calipers and pads to match.
 
I used to think the same about lines, but not so.
They just improve the feel or shorten the lever travel.
I also love them, and put them on every bike and 4wheeler I have/had.
Rotor material can make a difference, but shapes that 'improve cooling' are such an insignificant amount that it cannot be accurately tested.
Larger diameter rotors are good, but need calipers and pads to match.
We'll have to disagree on the lines, there are lots and lots of these sorts of links that tell us different.

It only goes to make sense that the OEM rubber lines expand and flex therefore losing pressure at the caliper....the average rider probably wouldn't even notice but on a bike such as @JoeSTi 's brute, it would be noticeable.

 
Make Sure you bed in new brake pads correctly too!!!
It makes a difference!
Brake material to rotor material stops good...brake material to brake material stops much better!
Usually 3 hard and fast emergency stops from 60mph+ to zero as quickly as possible, to embedd as much pad material into the pores of the rotor surface as possible.
So new quality rotors would be beneficial, as they are not glazed or embedded with old pad material.
Every little bit counts in braking...did you t-bone that car, or stop 6" from it?
 
We'll have to disagree on the lines, there are lots and lots of these sorts of links that tell us different.

It only goes to make sense that the OEM rubber lines expand and flex therefore losing pressure at the caliper....the average rider probably wouldn't even notice but on a bike such as @JoeSTi 's brute, it would be noticeable.

He's comparing ss lines to Old brake lines, and says you won't notice vs new ones...
The lever will travel further if the lines expand any, but the lines cannot improve hydraulic pressure, like a stronger master cylinder can.
So again, they improve feel, not stopping power...
And if the stock lines are old, they need replaced anyway:beerchug:
 
He's comparing ss lines to Old brake lines, and says you won't notice vs new ones...
The lever will travel further if the lines expand any, but the lines cannot improve hydraulic pressure, like a stronger master cylinder can.
So again, they improve feel, not stopping power...
And if the stock lines are old, they need replaced anyway:beerchug:
As I'm not a motorcycle engineer nor a hydraulic technician I can't really argue the point other than what I've learned over the years...

I do know when I was racing all the bikes I saw had braided lines.
 
As I'm not a motorcycle engineer nor a hydraulic technician I can't really argue the point other than what I've learned over the years...

I do know when I was racing all the bikes I saw had braided lines.
Yep
hot brake fluid causes rubber line expansion, and more lever travel and effort to accomplish the same as a ss line. Fluid gets and stays hotter quicker with more frequent brake use found in racing, vs the street.
Yes, ss lines are better in every way...they just won't stop you any sooner, as opposed to more bite from better pad material, more clamping force from better calipers, or more pressure from a better mc, than will also improve clamping force.
But yes, absoloutely ss lines 100%!!!
 
If need be ill swap the master cylinder like I am doing on my fz 10, I bet pads will be suffcient for what i am doing with the bike (not like it will be on a road course). As far as the straps the only time i will use them is at events like I did on my previous turbo busa. If i ever even need to use them. Lots and Lots of testing will be don with this bike!
 
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