Gen 3 valve check Did you have it done?

[MonkeyButtRides]

G3 50K miles

 

[Spudley]

I have a friend. He ran his generation two all the way through 100,000 miles without a valve check. Only problem is I don't think he changed his oil with proper lubricants as often as he should. He was a freeway commuter. He beat the poop out of just about every exhaust valve to the point they were all leaking. He couldn't do a compression check because the air was just escaping that fast.

 

[sixpack577]

Yup. It's like he senses whatever mileage we don't put on our Gen 3s, and does it on his to restore balance.

@dadofthree also enjoys putting up bs mileage milestone pics...like 29,999.8, 39,997, and any 50k mile pic would've been something like 49,998.7 miles...but he is too busy riding...
lol

 

[Duro5341]

The entire series of oil cooled Suzuki engines with the screw type adjusters made valve checks alot easier......

Adjusting bucket and shims kind of trouble me as I've never had to do one........yet......I've checked the tolerances but have yet to change a shim...

I adjusted them once on my 2004 Katana 750, none were out of spec at 20K............................but I did adjust the exhaust valves on the loose side of spec and in the intakes in the middle to ensure to have trouble free riding for thousands more miles to go.

Screw type adjusters with a homemade adjustment tool (deck screw w/Robertson head and a 3" wooden handle) are a breeze.

I'm NOT looking forward to the shim/bucket adjustment on the Busa

Cameron

 

[sixpack577]

I adjusted them once on my 2004 Katana 750, none were out of spec at 20K............................but I did adjust the exhaust valves on the loose side of spec and in the intakes in the middle to ensure to have trouble free riding for thousands more miles to go.

Screw type adjusters with a homemade adjustment tool (deck screw w/Robertson head and a 3" wooden handle) are a breeze.

I'm NOT looking forward to the shim/bucket adjustment on the Busa

Cameron

Shim and buckets are just as easy and basically the same to check as with adjustable rocker arms, and shims really aren't hard to swap either, just lift off the cam, lift the bucket, and take the shim off of the top of the valve stem and replace it with a thicker or thinner one.
I ziptie the chain to each cam, and use white-out to mark a tooth on each cam to a chain link, which makes retiming the engine much quicker.
Reset the tensioner and put the valve cover back on.
This is after I have rotated the engine a few times and verified the timing marks again, I also like to set the valve cover back on, maybe put a bolt or 2 in(but not needed), plug in just what it needs to run, and crank it just until it starts, then turn it off.
Then I clean off the valve cover gasket(as they are almost always reusable) put on a small amount of rtv silicone, torque it, and that's basically it, other than tightening the airbox on the throttle bodies and lowering the gas tank.
Just make sure you have a shim kit before you start, so you don't have to wait on ordering them, and every once in a while you'll get lucky and can swap 2 shims and put both valves back in spec.

 

[Spudley]

Write it all down and don't force your feeler gauges.