Gen II, could this design have been any worse~?~

SS lines might be an idea since the flex line would go between the header tubes and might touch...I emailed Brocks to see if this kit would be safe on the lines if it rests against the header tube or very close to it.
I looked at the filter relocator and I believe on the GEN II I would have to use flex lines anyway because it looks like it would angle the filter right into the hard OEM line and I still would not be able to squeese it past when removing the filter.

I believe the first kit I looked at might melt if going through the header tube to the cooler...

I think first thing I'm going to do though is go with the studs and nuts and will probably stick with that for a little while.

Outlaw did you hear back from Brocks regarding if it would be applicable to take the heat if resting against the header tube?
 
Outlawbusa and Takeuon why would you put the SS flex lines on if you had a Brocks as these systems do not require any line removal or things like that for filter removal ?
 
Outlaw did you hear back from Brocks regarding if it would be applicable to take the heat if resting against the header tube?

I haven't heard back yet, figured might hear something today...

Outlawbusa and Takeuon why would you put the SS flex lines on if you had a Brocks as these systems do not require any line removal or things like that for filter removal ?

I believe takeuon is asking in general about the durability of the SS line...I actually do have an AH full exhaust and can't wiggle that little filter through any part of it. Maybe I missed something~?~

The only place I see that the filter might slip through is the curve on the right tube, but still would require the oil cooler to be moved a bit as some said they have been doing...

100_1824.jpg


100_1825.jpg


100_1826.jpg
 
Outlaw did you hear back from Brocks regarding if it would be applicable to take the heat if resting against the header tube?

BTW, I was going to avoid bringing Brock's parts into this thread and do not wish to slander the exhaust. Brock has been a wonderful help in the past and I absolutely love this exhaust~!~

That being clear, I will post the reply I received.

"I’m not sure if it would work for you or not, the only bike that we have tested these on is the Busa. What you should be able to do is take the bolt off your alien head muffler so it isn’t attached to the bike, the since our system is spring mounted, you should be able to push the entire system forward enough to get the oil filter off without removing the oil line. Sorry I couldn’t be more help, if you would like to try I can sell you just one line, I just can’t guarantee that it will work."

{Thanks for the reply}


His reply also gave me an idea that might make it a bit easier to place heat wrap around the header~!~
 
Outlaw that curve is exactly where it will come out from.
You need to loosen not remove the two bolts on top of cooler that hold it to bracket.
It will squeeze right out thru there. Or you can do what they say and take out bolt that holds can to header. With that out header will rock forward enough to give you room to get it out.

I loosen oil cooler..
You have to think that if Suzuki intended for you to take line off no matter what it would have a rigid line on it but since line is already flexible it seems they intended you to move cooler.

As far as heat wrap I had some on my Muzzy cuz it was close..

Muzzy system 003.jpg
 
Guys,

Here at Brock’s we try to allow oil filter removal whenever possible.... unfortunately, because we are a performance-based system sometimes this simply is not possible. Larger diameter tubing is required for maximum performance, especially in conjunction with the proper functioning of the ram air. Sometimes, there just isn't enough room between the engine and the fairings to allow filter removal on some models and still make good power. All of our systems are attached via springs, this means that typically you can remove one bolt at the rear of the system and rock the system forward to remove the filter. I would say in 80% of the cases we can allow the filter to be removed without the need to do this.

On some of the systems, such as our sidewinders where oil filter removal simply is not an option…we make this: http://prostores2.carrierzone.com/s...ocator-dsh-Suzuki-SUZ-dsh-1018-dsh-OFR/Detail

As far as your line problem goes. We make a variety of products to cure this, no problem.

Please call my office and speak to Scott at 937-912-0054 ext 106. I will brief him on the situation and he will help.

Brock
Brock's Performance Products
 
BTW, I was going to avoid bringing Brock's parts into this thread and do not wish to slander the exhaust. Brock has been a wonderful help in the past and I absolutely love this exhaust~!~

That being clear, I will post the reply I received.

"I’m not sure if it would work for you or not, the only bike that we have tested these on is the Busa. What you should be able to do is take the bolt off your alien head muffler so it isn’t attached to the bike, the since our system is spring mounted, you should be able to push the entire system forward enough to get the oil filter off without removing the oil line. Sorry I couldn’t be more help, if you would like to try I can sell you just one line, I just can’t guarantee that it will work."

{Thanks for the reply}


His reply also gave me an idea that might make it a bit easier to place heat wrap around the header~!~

I have the AH too. I was just about to say this is how i have to get mine out. I just looked around a minute and figured out to do what you just said. I always flat rate everything i do if at all possible and don't really want to get into the oil cooler line if possible too :thumbsup:
 
I've learned a lot from this thread, thanks Brock for your input and all others for helping think outside the box a bit~!~ :thumbsup:
 
Sure doesn't look like fun if you have to take that little line off every time you do an oil change. What exhaust do you have on the bike?
 
Whats a helicoil hope its not a dumb ?

Its a stainless steel thread kit. You basically retap the damaged thread with a special oversized tap and then insert the helicoil with a tool and snap off a tang that locks it in there pretty well. You end up with the same original sized thread in SS and you won't strip it out again unless you really do something wrong.

Can be done preventatively or as a repair. You could also convert an imperial thread to a metric thread and vice-versa if you really wanted.
 
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