Gen1 stock Overheat?

FWIW, my bike has never overheated. I'm talking about major traffic jams, in Houston, in summer (104 °F) and I've never had an issue.
She does get extremely hot and the gauge fluctuates with the fans but the needle has never gone more that 3/4 of it's travel and the light has never come on. Yes the light works. Bone stock 2003 Busa.

I always hear about the overheating issues but I've never experienced it personally.
 
loniki09 said:
Hey Guys !

The Gen1 Busas from my father and me have the same "Problem" maybe its a normal case with the Gen1 Busa but i dont know. The Busas are completely Stock.

When its hot outside ( 25-30 celsius) and we stand a longer time in Traffic, the Needle from the Water temp. Goes up until the fan gets on. All normal. But when we stay longer because of trafficjam or something, the red temperature light goes on. Is it the same with your Busas?

On my Gixxer 1000 or my ZX9R or any other bike i rode so far, the fan gets on, the temp. Gets lower until the fan gets off, temp. Goes higher... fan goes on.. and so on. Never saw the red temp. Light on any of that bikes...
Click to expand...
Typical with my Gen 1
 
@Berlin Germany ...... Frank,
Very interesting info you put out in this thread, re the repositioning of the thermoswitch, and the lambda reading values . . I value this info coz you have done your own testing on this, not just repeated that which you have heard others say etc.
It makes sense to keep the idle speed of the engine at a rich burn to keep the engine cooler, being lean always heats things up.
And to only change the fueling at the lower rev range (up to 1300rpm) makes sense, this may eliminate the =need for an extra fan to be fitted.
But I also note that this will only be necessary in warmer climates with high daily temps.
Here in NZ we only have a few days a year with the temps exceeding 30degC. Usually mid 20's in Summer, and much cooler in Autumn and Spring (who rides in winter anyway?)
I appreciate and value your technical input Frank, Danke.
 
@Kiwi Rider

wait some years and you´ll have higher temp. even in nz

here in berlin we already had 39 degC some years ago
and last weeks we had around 35 - any more questions ?

and dude

the repositioning of the thermoswitch is an ABSOLUT MUST at all gen1 all over the world !!!

even those who never use revs over 8000 and treated their busa super gently , have had blown Gen1 headgaskets .

and in order to be able to save a considerable amount of money for the subsequent repair, the working time alone is between 12-15 hours, i strongly recommend this repositioning of the switch .
the cost for that job is i guess less than 1/10 of the costs for a new head gasket.

i myself saved at minimum one gasket at a buddy´s busa whose red light (in the gauge) came up lots of times with the T-piece .
his gasket survived :)
 
@ all here in the .org
@Kiwi Rider

i've been thinking for a long time about ordering the "set" for the T-piece, the repositioning of the thermoswitch, in larger quantities,
in order to then send this set in a quantity of, say, 100 pieces to NZ or the USA
- the postage costs per set would then be put into perspective and shipping within nz or the usa or australia should be relatively moderate .
 
@Kiwi Rider
@michael parris heuberger
@Hayabusa Wannabe
and @ an australian here on board

is that t-set (the t itself, 2 hose -clamps, 1 plug m18x1,5, its gasket) available in NZ , USA ; Australia and for what price ?

could it be senseful to sell also a small harness (adapter cable) from connector at main harness (LH under the fairing) to the switch in the t (RH)
so nobody has nomore to cut off the conn at main harness (LH) , welding in 2 prolongering wires from lh to the T and the switch at rh ?
i have found a perfect source 4 the 2 connectors.

the price for the t-set inclusive the adapter cable I estimate to be around 110 euros

not cheap i know but only the 2 connectors for the cabel are around 28 euros
 
Berlin Germany said:
@Kiwi Rider
@michael parris heuberger
@Hayabusa Wannabe
and @ an australian here on board

is that t-set (the t itself, 2 hose -clamps, 1 plug m18x1,5, its gasket) available in NZ , USA ; Australia and for what price ?

could it be senseful to sell also a small harness (adapter cable) from connector at main harness (LH under the fairing) to the switch in the t (RH)
so nobody has nomore to cut off the conn at main harness (LH) , welding in 2 prolongering wires from lh to the T and the switch at rh ?
i have found a perfect source 4 the 2 connectors.

the price for the t-set inclusive the adapter cable I estimate to be around 110 euros

not cheap i know but only the 2 connectors for the cabel are around 28 euros
Click to expand...
That's NZD$195. . . . plus postage, any idea what the postage cost would be from you to me in NZ?
As you said...NOT cheap. But nothing is these days.
I will try to make time this week to see if these parts are available in NZ.
 
Kiwi Rider said:

.....hope you're good with German lol
Click to expand...
@Kiwi Rider
and
@Hayabusa Wannabe

use this link and you won´t need german

Google Translate

Google's service, offered free of charge, instantly translates words, phrases, and web pages between English and over 100 other languages.
translate.google.com translate.google.com
it is the google translator where u copy and paste my german link in/onto and let google translate this to english
the link then sounds :

URL unfurl="true"]https://www-fj1200--3cv-de.translate.goog/_Hayabusa/02-Motor/Wasser-Kuehler/Temperaturfuehler_versetzen/Temperaturfuehler_versetzen.htm?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp[/URL

that then leads to

scrolling down lead u then to the 3 (4) pieces of my set:
the T
T-Stueck.gif

the plug 4 the rad (here with hex-head, sometimes also with allen)
Stopfen.gif

the hose clamp where u would get 2 from
Schelle.gif


a pic of the lil harness i have not yet


and

the main link to the busa part of my hp is this one :
 
Last edited:
Kiwi Rider said:
.....hope you're good with German lol
Click to expand...

No, I am just beginning to get shed my frustrations with English, but thanks anyway.


Is brass acceptable or does it contaminate too much? Household brass parts are cheap and there are some that could possibly work. I cannot find the right configuration in stainless or galvanized.

1690881774489.png


1690882102816.png


This is from another motorcycle forum, although I cannot currently ID the part at Menards:

1690882314876.png
 
@Hayabusa Wannabe

if the brass-t has a inner thread of M18x1.5, the switch´s outer thread , plus new ends who have an outer dia of 26 mm , it may work

same thread size u also need at the inner thread at the radiator M18x1.5 .

pls remember
imperial and metric threads never fit anyway , so
if u try to mount a 3/4 inch plug into the m18 x 1.5 you´ll kill for sure the radiator , i guess .
 
Last edited:
Hayabusa Wannabe said:
I have searched some of our industrial catalogs that have many couplers without success. This backwards society still likes measuring everything via the king's foot. I suspect that metric parts are unlikely to be readily available and probably have to be sourced from overseas.
Click to expand...

yeah and this overseas source i offered (above) ;) i guess

and the "how to do the job" i posted at my homepage

______________

and you´re sure that this special type of T won´t be available outside germany ?

can´t be i guessed , but if u say so i think i have to believe .

________________________


the t-piece with the necessary dimensions for the water hose connection - alone - itself can be bought relatively easy here in germany.
but what then becomes a problem , is that rel. large internal thread 18x1.5 for the switch.

and for that you need a really damn good mechanic , with super equipment in his workshop , who is able to cut the thread 100% safely 90° perpendicular to the sealing surface,
because if it wasn't really 90° straight
the screw connection would never be tight and cooling water would leak out permanently - only in small quantities but still very unsightly / unpleasant :(

and such a mechanic i have / know as a very good friend .

____________________________

the pros for my set :

at the end my estimated material (and fabricating) costs per set incl. adapter cable is less than 1/10 of the costs a broken / blown through head gasket (alone)

worst case can be that the head got agap becauses "welded" away alu and a new head is needed - man THAT would be SO expensive ... - a brand new (naked) head is at the moment around 2200 € here in germany
 
and it is a question how many sets i would send in 1 pack - i suppose up to 5-8 sets in 1 pack the shipping costs would be somewhere arround 35-50 euro
the question is what weight this package would have - no idea at the moment - i would have to ask for .

these cost to NZ, USA, Australia , etc. are usually the same i suppose

as a result of all above
- 1 single set, sent to NZ, USA, Australia , etc. inclusive p´n p , would cost around 110€ + ca. 50 € p´n p = 160 € plus the surcharge for paypal (when sent to a friend) of approx. 10% = approx. 16 €
the sum can reach (i´m afraid) easily 176-190 €

anyone who doesn't have the famous two left hands / 5 thumbs on each hand (as we here call those how can not even hammer a nail into the wall or so),
can do the installation / assembly himselve
and one don't have to go to the official workshop.
 
Berlin Germany said:
anyone who doesn't have the famous two left hands / 5 thumbs on each hand (as we here call those how can not even hammer a nail into the wall or so),
can do the installation / assembly himselve
Click to expand...

Finally someone understands me. Except that I can swing a hammer extremely well as I was taught by a great carpenter, so that is kind of a bad analogy. But how about someone at risk of poking their eye out with a box wrench? That would be me.

I am thinking of buying a gen 1 just to test if I can install your kit as easily as you claim.
 
Hayabusa Wannabe said:
I am thinking of buying a gen 1 just to test if I can install your kit as easily as you claim.
Click to expand...
man?

i guess THAT way could be "a bit" ;) expensive only to test :lol:

so a better way would be to make a video (in realtime) in german AND english language for my youtube channel how easy ´n simple the assembly of the set is .

but what one shouldn't never forget are the incidental work like :
- the disassembly / reassembly of the side panels,
- raise the tank
- draining the cooling water,
- the refilling of the radiator and its bleeding

because even here 5 thumbs on each hand massively stand in the way of proper work.
so if one really has no / zero experience in repairing/modifying a bike and doesn't have the right tools at his free disposal, one should better go to a workshop to get the conversion done there .
_____________________________________________________________

dear friend - save ur eye(s) and wait for my video ;)
 
Berlin Germany said:
@Kiwi Rider
@michael parris heuberger
@Hayabusa Wannabe
and @ an australian here on board

is that t-set (the t itself, 2 hose -clamps, 1 plug m18x1,5, its gasket) available in NZ , USA ; Australia and for what price ?
(...)
Click to expand...
@Kiwi Rider
@michael parris heuberger
@Hayabusa Wannabe
and all aussies

men (and girls) ?

my offered "T-set" is available from Schnitz Racing in the exact quantity and scope - even the adapter cable is part of it .
what may be missing there are the two hose clamps that you need to be able to connect the rubber hose from head to rad tightly , what needs to be cut.

so the assambly is that easy as i described it (at different places - here and at my homepage) ;)
 
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