Gen3 handlebar symmetry

OG-BUSA

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Hello everyone....Brought a Gen3 busa in another state and trailered it back home. I used Canyon Dancer to strap the front end. When I got the bike off the trailer I noticed about 3/4" exposed handlebar between grip and endcap.
Anyone have an idea how to correct that? I rode the bike and it is not out of alignment.
I loosened the two allen screws thinking I could push the handlebar in. Didn't work. Anyone know how to close the gap?
 
Steering is true so there's no issue with that. I've worked on bars on my much older bikes but I'm not familiar with this.
I took cap off and discovered it's a solid bar. I loosened the two allen bolts on the controls and tried to lightly tap it in. That didn't work. Didn't want to screw my bike up so stopped. Bike was trailered for 450miles so there was a lot of bouncing and time for this to happen.
20220612_093811.jpg
 
The handlebars are fine in their normal position. You don't need to loosen those Allen heads to move the handlebar, just move the grip and the clutch master down the bar.

That's the clutch side grip, you should be able to loosen the 2 8mm bolts that hold the clutch clamp in place pull the grip and the clutch lever itself outward or downward. When you have it repositioned, you can also rotate the clutch lever or the brake lever by the same procedure to fit your riding position for your hands on the grips.

Many of us rotate the grips 30 to 45° forward and down so that your fingertips are pointed towards the front wheel.
 
The grip may be glued on with a light adhesive preventing it from sliding towards the bar end. Personally I would remove it with an air compressor, remove the adhesive then glue it in the correct spot. That way it doesn't rotate on you after you move it.
 
The handlebars are fine in their normal position. You don't need to loosen those Allen heads to move the handlebar, just move the grip and the clutch master down the bar.

That's the clutch side grip, you should be able to loosen the 2 8mm bolts that hold the clutch clamp in place pull the grip and the clutch lever itself outward or downward. When you have it repositioned, you can also rotate the clutch lever or the brake lever by the same procedure to fit your riding position for your hands on the grips.

Many of us rotate the grips 30 to 45° forward and down so that your fingertips are pointed towards the front wheel.
Thanks, greatly appreciate the info. I'll give that a try.
 
The grip may be glued on with a light adhesive preventing it from sliding towards the bar end. Personally I would remove it with an air compressor, remove the adhesive then glue it in the correct spot. That way it doesn't rotate on you after you move it.
You are correct. The brown residue you see in pic is adhesive. As of right now I'm content with the factory grips so I do want to retain them without damage. In the past I would just cut them off, clean, reglue and put new ones on. How would you use an air compressor to separate the grips from bar? 1st thing came to mind was a ball inflator tip to get it started.
 
The handlebars are fine in their normal position. You don't need to loosen those Allen heads to move the handlebar, just move the grip and the clutch master down the bar.

That's the clutch side grip, you should be able to loosen the 2 8mm bolts that hold the clutch clamp in place pull the grip and the clutch lever itself outward or downward. When you have it repositioned, you can also rotate the clutch lever or the brake lever by the same procedure to fit your riding position for your hands on the grips.

Many of us rotate the grips 30 to 45° forward and down so that your fingertips are pointed towards the front wheel.
I've never thought about rotations or adjusting the hand controls. Can you elaborate on this?
 
Roll the levers down so your fingers rest lightly on them(left/right also, until they fit YOUR hands the best).
So you don't have to lift your fingers to grab the levers, they are positioned so you can just pull them in.
I usually keep 1 or fingers on the front brake this way, comfortably.
 
That grip is just pushed up on the bar too.
put some grip glue on the exposed bar end, pull the grip over it, let it dry...done.
 
It's an ergonomical adjustment based on how you lean on the handlebars and where your fingers over lap onto the brake and clutch levers.

Some riders suffer from carpal tunnel after so many years of riding, your wrists are bent, and your palms are flat. The factory levers are horizontal to the grips or to the ground, so we rotate the lever forward so that it's a straighter line between your shoulder and your wrist. You wrists aren't bent as much. Your hands actually are straight over the grip to the levers which are lower.

Your wrist fatigue will be reduced, and if you set up your pegs correctly, the amount of pressure from your knees relieves upper body weight on your wrists.
 
Roll the levers down so your fingers rest lightly on them(left/right also, until they fit YOUR hands the best).
So you don't have to lift your fingers to grab the levers, they are positioned so you can just pull them in.
I usually keep 1 or fingers on the front brake this way, comfortably.
That's basically it !. :thumbsup:
 
Yes, resevoirs, lever length, and hydraulic line routing, body parts can all improve, or conflict with this adjustment.

Accomodations can be made.
 
I don't own a gen3; but isn't that extra grip space on the left bar for the optional heated grip switch anyway?
So if you don't have heated grips...you have an extra inch of bare bar?
 
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