Have Spark Have Fuel Bike Cranks Wont Start

Compression is fine everything above 180 a valves arent making any noise bike runs smooth once in high rpm when in low rpm it sounds like it being choked
 
Can you get it on a co machine, to check your carbon dioxide readings on idle and compare it to 3k upwards, at least this would tell you if it was fuel related.
 
I want to keep the bike at home and figure it out since I cant afford to take it to a dealer since that is what i did last time
 
I get that, being a mechanic, I don’t trust garages, I’ve heard too many horror stories tbh, better of figuring it out for yourself.
I think you need to go through a methodical process of elimination, eliminate mechanical possibilities first, then fuel, vacuum, air fuel system, then electrical.

Engine
1. Set up mechanical timing, cam shafts and crank.
2. Check valve clearances (cold engine) and cam chain tension the early busas had a cam chain tensioner mod.

Fuel
1. Check pump pressure from pump to fuel rail, under priming, cranking and revving (once engine is running), pressure should never drop below 42+psi.
2. Injectors
3. Fuel contamination, filters, fuel couloir, smell, water, rust, in tank.

Vacuum.
1. Check for air leaks around vacuum hoses, throttle body boots, electrical connectors to all vacuum sensors
2. Correct vacuum pipe routing from throttle bodies to map sensor.
3. Sync throttle bodies as per workshop manual, after setting TPS.

Electrical
Difficult to suggest a path with electrical but I’d start with water temp switch, map sensor, these affect the fuel/air mix, then I’d start checking voltage, from the stator windings, condition of battery and think about the ckps (crank shaft position sensor), I have first hand experience with a failed one (don’t ask lol).
Coils will usually break down under load, as would plugs but I know busas tend to run rich as standard and this does shorten the life of plugs, maybe worth trying a new set of plugs, it could be something as simple as that?

Hope this helps or if anyone can add something.
 
David Offor said:
I get that, being a mechanic, I don’t trust garages, I’ve heard too many horror stories tbh, better of figuring it out for yourself.
I think you need to go through a methodical process of elimination, eliminate mechanical possibilities first, then fuel, vacuum, air fuel system, then electrical.

Engine
1. Set up mechanical timing, cam shafts and crank.
2. Check valve clearances (cold engine) and cam chain tension the early busas had a cam chain tensioner mod.

Fuel
1. Check pump pressure from pump to fuel rail, under priming, cranking and revving (once engine is running), pressure should never drop below 42+psi.
2. Injectors
3. Fuel contamination, filters, fuel couloir, smell, water, rust, in tank.

Vacuum.
1. Check for air leaks around vacuum hoses, throttle body boots, electrical connectors to all vacuum sensors
2. Correct vacuum pipe routing from throttle bodies to map sensor.
3. Sync throttle bodies as per workshop manual, after setting TPS.

Electrical
Difficult to suggest a path with electrical but I’d start with water temp switch, map sensor, these affect the fuel/air mix, then I’d start checking voltage, from the stator windings, condition of battery and think about the ckps (crank shaft position sensor), I have first hand experience with a failed one (don’t ask lol).
Coils will usually break down under load, as would plugs but I know busas tend to run rich as standard and this does shorten the life of plugs, maybe worth trying a new set of plugs, it could be something as simple as that?

Hope this helps or if anyone can add something.
Click to expand...
I did all of these and well it still has issues on start up i changed my gas station and well bike now starts but still has that rumble I only have one hose that is cracked that goes from the body to an unknown area wish i had a picture it goes from one size to a larger size hard to explain but it comes out of the frame
 
This was how I tested my injectors and fuel pressure, before and after fitting new pump. https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/hayabusa-gen-1-misfiring-suspect-injectors.191048/

Your problem is tricky, think you need to eliminate your injectors, if you’ve already had a problem with fuel contamination/rust, it could’ve damaged the injectors, worth trying another set or getting yours serviced, it seems that the injectors are the only thing untested or not renewed in your search.
 
This was how I tested my injectors and fuel pressure, before and after fitting new pump. https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/hayabusa-gen-1-misfiring-suspect-injectors.191048/

Your problem is tricky, think you need to eliminate your injectors, if you’ve already had a problem with fuel contamination/rust, it could’ve damaged the injectors, worth trying another set or getting yours serviced, it seems that the injectors are the only thing untested or not renewed in your search.
 
Well the bike is driven on a weekly basis living in fl and in a condo their is no way to leave the bike in a garage so its either ridden or at least started being a fl bike there are no rust issues the injectors were firing when removed and fuel pressure was there. I am thinking of replacing both the ignition switch module and the turn signal module since I can factor out electrics
 
Well today bike did not want to start it seems that the ignition switch is faulty since i had to roll the bike forward a bit to get the switch to work
 
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