Thanks for the info. Step 1 will have to be airpbox mod. A new lid is $120 so get one of those to start modifying.
Do you like the "silicone hose mod", the "radiator hose mod" or the fiberglass (these seem impossible to get). To get the "fiberglass" ones, i would probably have to make them myself (probably a real PITA for very little gain over the other two version).
Do you prefer ECU editor or woolich? It seems maybe more tuners support woolich? I have downloaded and played with ECU editor; cant do the same with woolich but I suspect all the ECU editor features are there "plus some". I think Woolich was one of the contributors to ECU editor and he took that and commercialized it? SO I assume woolich has some fancy new features (or a least a coolers logo?)
I have seen the moore dyno tuning video (i hate the brock exhaust... looks horrible). As I live at a much different elevation, probably best tune comes from someone local (who knows Hayabusa tuning).
The fiberglass ram-air tubes where made by a Bking forum member over a dozen years ago.
There weren't alot made, and they were understanably expensive given the time involved, so I would just use the hoses instead, as it's cheap and easy.
Radiator hose vs silicone hose.
Both accomplish the same, and are inexpensive, but the radiator hose costs more.
The radiator hose is more rigid, but that is not needed, and can make removing and installing the airbox lid a bit of a hassle that it doesn't have to be.
The silicone hose is rigid enough to work well, with enough flex to make install simple.
The radiator hose tends to get and stay dirty easier over time, as it's easy for dirt to accumulate on that type of surface, vs the silicone, which easily wipes clean with a wet rag.
Radiator hose also has thread woven through it, which is nearly impossible to trim against the cut rubber edge, lol, vs the silicone which has a clean cut edge.
It's a simple mod to do.
I forget if the hosee need to be 2" or 2.5" in diameter, so measure how much room you have on the airbox, go with the bigger, and make the 2 holesaw cuts.
The silicone hose in the correct diameter, with a 90° bend with 6" coming off each side.
Push them through the airbox, and out through the holes in each side of the frame rails, mark each end, cut, reinstall, done.
The outer ends of the hose sit flush with the frame rails, and the plastic trim acts like a scoop, even though they are not air tight.
You can let the hoses stick further through and out of the frame, so they fit flush against the inside of the plastic trim, and cut out the front half of the hose that protrudes through the frame, making the hose end like a scoop.
That's not going to make any noticeable difference, but, it just depends on how You would like to finish it.
As for Ecu Editor vs Woolrich
I had/have Ecu Editor, with a bench flasher, and flashed over 3 dozen gen2's, with 6 or 7 being B-Kings, including my own bikes(and Gsxr's)
It works great for a flash, and if a tuner knows how to use it, the bike can be dyno tuned with it as well.
There was nothing like this offered from Woolrich back then, and I was fortunate to be able to buy a bench flasher from Smith.
You can also flash the ecu with Ecu Editor and use a PowerCommander for the fueling for a dyno tune.
As for Woolrich, I have no personal experience with it, but have read alot on their website.
They obviously have alot of cool stuff going on, and I would think that it would be much easier to find a tuner using Woolrich vs Ecu Editor.
Ecu Editor is good because it's cheap and easy, and I have it(in my locked laptop, lol)
I would go with Woolrich now days since it's common and has lots of support.
As for what one can do vs the other in your application, both can do the same thing, Woolrich doesn't have any more options for basic flash for the Gen2 Busa and B-King than Ecu Editor does.
