HH Extreme Breaks

mr8ball

mr8ball

Registered
Ok guys I got my EBC HH Extreme pads in today Thanks to Justin / Honda East and installed them. For me they are not and better then the regular HH pads witch I had on before. Maybe I need to bleed the breaks or something but they feel kinds spongy now. I have the bradded lines front and rear. I also replaced the rear as well but after I measured them it was only .040 difference between the old and new. The back feels fine. I went to the Honda shop and felt some of the front breaks there and they were very solid.

So my question is Could I have got some air trapped in there when I pushed the pistons back?

I was going to change the fluid tomorrow and bleed then. Any thoughts?
 
It's possible you may have shaken things up a little. When was the last time you bled your brakes or refreshed the fluid? I run the regular HH's along with braided lines and have no complaints. Very firm lever and anything more than 2 fingers is never needed. Depends on how hard you ride and really use the brakes, your brake fluid will break down just like oil from heat.

Anytime I start to notice any kind of spongy feel in my lever I'll open up the system flush system with new fluid and lever will go right back to solid feel. Never really timed the intervals but I will do it at least everytime I switch out tires which usually is 1500-2000miles on average. Sometimes I have even refreshened fluid earlier if I feel it needed it. Of course rear doesn't get as much love cause it really never gets used. but for the fronts your only talking what $6 for a bottle of fluid and maybe 15 min start to finish? Cheap and quick peace of mind.
 
Extreme Pros should be noticeably better. Did you do a proper bed-in?
 
Zip tie the lever overnight after you bleed the lines. Then bleed them again the next day. That'll get a little more air out.
As said above too, you need to bed them in.
Also, do some agressive braking afterwards.
I immediatly noticed how much easier stoppies were after putting the extreme pros on mine.:beerchug:
 
sixpack577 said:
Zip tie the lever overnight after you bleed the lines. Then bleed them again the next day. That'll get a little more air out.
As said above too, you need to bed them in.
Also, do some agressive braking afterwards.
I immediatly noticed how much easier stoppies were after putting the extreme pros on mine.:beerchug:
Click to expand...
you need to bed them in. I am not sure what this is. I road it for a bit today and got on them pretty hard a few times. I plan to bleed them tomorrow but would like to know about the bed them in thing. I have changed the fluid once. It has 20 K on it now. Thanks all
 
mr8ball said:
you need to bed them in. I am not sure what this is. I road it for a bit today and got on them pretty hard a few times. I plan to bleed them tomorrow but would like to know about the bed them in thing. I have changed the fluid once. It has 20 K on it now. Thanks all
Click to expand...

Bedding them in is basically just a series of hard stops at different speeds.
It gets the brake pads hot and the pad material into the rotors.
The back of the package(or the website)will tell you exactly how Ebc recommends you do this.:beerchug:
 
Is this new pads on old rotors? That takes longer to bead in because the old rotors probably have some grooving that the new pads need to marry with.
 
8ball,
put on your new pads, re-bleed lines with fresh fluid. Suit up, take that puppy out to 29, run her up to about 150 and then stand it on it's nose a couple times and they'll be nice and bedded in. :laugh:

Seriously though I know guys that do a religious routine when putting on new brakes and it seems to work well for them, then again I've tried that method and also stuck on new pads,used them to slow down at a couple lights on the way to a ride and then just hammered on them as usual and seen no difference between one way or the other. Sorta the same as breaking in a new motor, some say baby it for 500 or so miles varying the rpm while others believe putting it together and driving it how you plan on from the get go. All in who you ask.
 
880jedi said:
Is this new pads on old rotors? That takes longer to bead in because the old rotors probably have some grooving that the new pads need to marry with.
Click to expand...

Actually if your rotors have grooves wore in them then they need to be replaced. That's sorta like the fat guy at McDonalds ordering 3 Big Macs w/fries but getting the Diet Coke. It's not doing any good.
 
29!
So you know where we be's.:laugh:
I try to stay off of there and hide out back in the woods...it does have a few nice lonngggg straight aways though.:laugh:
 
OK guys I got everything done. I finally got the bradded line on the clutch side. I went and bought me the MultiVAc and boy did it make it easy to bleedeverything. It took longer to take the fairing off and put it back on then it did to bleed the breaks. I got the breaks beaded in and wow what a difference. Thanks to all for the info and help. The org is a great place:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
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