How to oil change????

darinlab

Registered
Hey I'am hoping someone can help me out. I have a 2006 Hauabusa and I would like to change my own oil. Would someone please give me step by step instruction.
Thanks - Darin
 
I put the bike up on wheel stands and then remove the rightside fairing. The filter will be right there on front of the block.
 
remove right panel

17mm wrench to remove oil plug and be careful when you put the plug back in it strips the pan threads easy

put tinfoil on your exaust under the oil filter and remove the oil filter (plastic strap wrench) the foil keeps the oil from going all over the exaust and drain into the oil pan

replace filter and plug and fill with 3300ml of oil or about 3 1/2 to 4 quarts

start the bike and check for leaks
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Make sure you use a new crush washer and a torque wrench when replacing the oil drain plug. The torque spec is only 16.5 ft. lbs.
 
Oh, and
post-52-02136-welcome.gif
to the insanity. Please post up some background info and a few pics of the ride in the Introduction section.
 
What's the easiest way to remove the panel? I was thinking about approaching it from the bottom, and working my way up to the top. Are there plastic clips to worry about, or is it solely allen bolts?

Cheers,
Chris
 
There is a plastic rivet connecting the lower inner pannel to the cowel botton panel inside the front wheel well. Its also easier if you loosen the 3 philips head screws holding the inner panel on the right side. It has a tendancy of getting hung up in stuff.
 
Thanks for the tip!

One quick follow-up question...

Is the crush washer a real necessity, or can the change be done without it?
 
(HayaBruzza @ Apr. 13 2007,11:51) Thanks for the tip!

One quick follow-up question...

Is the crush washer a real necessity, or can the change be done without it?
I've never changed my crush washer - no leaks. YMMV

Just be careful about over tightening the drain bolt.
 
(HayaBruzza @ Apr. 13 2007,11:51) Thanks for the tip!

One quick follow-up question...

Is the crush washer a real necessity, or can the change be done without it?
No, it's not a necessity, but it is "recommended" to replace it after a few changes for a more secure fit.
 
Make sure to watch the oil site glass too. Usually about 3 quarts will fill the site glass. Then start the bike, let it idle, shut down and then add more oil to bring the oil level back up to the "F" mark on the site glass. Making sure not to overfill the system.
 
Large rivet next to triple tree and there's a rubber stud next to the tank. When all the allen screws and the two rivets are removed pull back, up, and away. Be careful not to scratch nose with right side fairing.

I don't use foil. If the bike is on the side or kickstand the filter drains between header tubes, but you have to break it loose easy and let it drain before completely removing it. Either way works.
 
Couple of things:

1. Very easy to overfill - puir slow and have bike level

2, You will get filter oil on the pipes...buy a cheap can of spray brake cleaner and just spray the oil off when done

3. If you have never removed the fairing (and your bike is nice) use some making tape on the edge of the upper fairing where the three allens are. If you don't, you will most likely scratch it when putting the fairing back on.
 
(dadofthree @ Apr. 15 2007,20:28) Large rivet next to triple tree and there's a rubber stud next to the tank. When all the allen screws and the two rivets are removed pull back, up, and away.
Where is the rubber stud next to the tank?

I pulled all of the allen screws out, and the fairing seemed to still be attached somewhere near the top/centre of the fairing.  Looks like the black pannel which fills the gap between the tank and the fairing are somehow bolted together.

Gotta be missing something...
 
(HayaBruzza @ Apr. 16 2007,19:56)
(dadofthree @ Apr. 15 2007,20:28) Large rivet next to triple tree and there's a rubber stud next to the tank. When all the allen screws and the two rivets are removed pull back, up, and away.
Where is the rubber stud next to the tank?

I pulled all of the allen screws out, and the fairing seemed to still be attached somewhere near the top/centre of the fairing.  Looks like the black pannel which fills the gap between the tank and the fairing are somehow bolted together.

Gotta be missing something...
There is a plastic rod/stud attached to the top of the fairing that faces down. It is inserted into a rubber grommet on the frame. You need to pull up on the fairing to free it from the rubber grommet.

Get a copy of the manual online. It will save you lots of problems later.
 
Yeah you have a plastic clip on the top under
the clip-on.. and then there is another
one up under the front air plennum..
it is a pain in the A$$ to get out I just
push it on the back to get it to come out
a bit and use a thin flat screw driver to
pry it out...

buffalojoe4-1.jpg
 
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