I am going with one front brake rotor...

     the backs are great for settling her down(trail brakin')
Trail braking is continuing to use the brakes after you have entered a corner/turn. The ideal is that all braking is done before the bike begins to turn, thus all of the tire traction can be used for cornering grip, and not lost to braking. When you stay on the brakes through the turn, not completing braking before the turn is initiated, that is trail braking - and can be done with either brake, though is probably a lot safer with the rear. Applying the brakes mid corner is not trail braking either - it is only the CONTINUED braking into a corner that is trail braking.

By settleing her down, I assume you are talking of reducing front end dive on hard braking. This is a good thing if you are very aggressive on the brakes, as a little bit of rear brake before the application of the front can prevent significant dive leaving the bike better balanced for a corner.
ya...that....

Mr. EncycleOpeedEabritaninka .

One things 4 sure...when you talk , I'll HARDLY ever........fall asleep.
most likely....
 
One of the main factors of going fast is the knowledge that you can STOP! No way would I reduce my ability to brake/ stop the bike short for any reason. Would be curious to see a 60mph to stop test with a rotor removed. To each his own. I wish you good luck with this mod.
 
     the backs are great for settling her down(trail brakin')
Trail braking is continuing to use the brakes after you have entered a corner/turn. The ideal is that all braking is done before the bike begins to turn, thus all of the tire traction can be used for cornering grip, and not lost to braking. When you stay on the brakes through the turn, not completing braking before the turn is initiated, that is trail braking - and can be done with either brake, though is probably a lot safer with the rear. Applying the brakes mid corner is not trail braking either - it is only the CONTINUED braking into a corner that is trail braking.

By settleing her down, I assume you are talking of reducing front end dive on hard braking. This is a good thing if you are very aggressive on the brakes, as a little bit of rear brake before the application of the front can prevent significant dive leaving the bike better balanced for a corner.
ya...that....

  Mr. EncycleOpeedEabritaninka .

One things 4 sure...when you talk , I'll HARDLY ever........fall asleep.
         most likely....
Pardon the #### out of me.
 
To each his own, but I ride fast and I like to know that I can stop. Two rotors for me thank you very much.

If you are only riding to show or drag race where you have plenty of time and space to slow down, one works fine. But if you ride the street and/or ride aggressive at all, you need both or lots of insurance for your family to burry you with. When you smack into that semi-truck that stopped to fast you will wish you had that second rotor my friends!

Those shiny wheels look great but you will not notice them when you are smeared on the back of a dump truck. Suzuki (and everyone else) did not but 2 rotors on there just to throw away the money. It needs both to provide power and progression of the stopping forces. Locking up the wheel is not the point, it is about the force that can be applied progressively and effectively to slow the wheel without lockup.
Ride safe folks! Use your best judgement.



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Well, honestly, if you're chroming that much I'll bet you're not canyon carving every day, so you probably shouldn't worry all that much. If you really do heel over hard and barnstorm in traffic, you ought to have both binders.

Bigger bikes that are stock have gotten by with that much braking power (or less), but not in recent decades -- single rotors were more common twenty or thirty years ago, as the industry was emerging from drum brakes on road bikes.

It's not so much the net braking force you can apply, but with all six pots on the front (and well bled) you have a lot more modulation control with the brake lever, and you won't have to fight the torque of a hard pull on only one rotor.

I don't know if there's been a failure due to the extra stress on one side, but I'd bet that those bikes weren't ridden (hard) enough to cause any such problems. The unsprung weight of the rotor is immaterial with suspension adjustment.

ED: I also have Goodridge SS brake/clutch lines and EBC HH pads. That, and good bleeding, really improves braking control and reduces fade, let alone actual stopping force. The SS clutch line just moves out the friction zone a bit.



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BusaBrother,
I have been there, brother.  I put my pretty chrome wheels on and decided to run only 1 front rotor / caliper.  

Man that was a pretty sight - easy to keep clean, easy to tie Schnitz strap down for dragstrip visits.  Loved the look.

1st time I rode it out of the garage, I went to the stop sign 1/4 mile up the street from my house - at about 30mph.  I couldn't stop in time and drifted thru.  Luckily, no cars were there.  I had to get used to braking a lot earlier in order to get stopped.

I rode it with one front brake for about 6 months & 3,000 miles until I became so scared I swallowed my pride and put both front brakes back on.  

Funny thing is, for those 6 months I became progressively more scared to ride it with 1 front brake.  Now, it looks much more attractive with both, knowing I don't have to be scared anymore.

Go ahead & try it, if you don't like it, you can always put it back on.  

Hope this helps.
 
Someone sationed in Iraq, cool beans (military I assume or maybe contractor?). Hang in there friend, we pretty much all support the effort here at HB.org.
 
Thanks guys!
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