I think I’m screwed!

Find it interesting that most here are saying put it back to stock and pretend nothing happened. I like to learn lessons that don't cost money as much as the next guy but you bought a brand new bike, modded part of it permanently, swapped out a structural member with one it was not designed for which then broke the frame and somehow that's the manufacturers fault?

Should it have broke? Not sure, could be a factory casting defect, could be what you did to it, but once you altered a significant part of the bike that the broken part is connected to you own it, defective or not...
 
Fredyp33 said:
I’ve still gotta figure out what caused it to break so I don’t do it again. Here are my home-made lowering links. I made them from Home Depot bar steel. After I know for sure the spacing, I was gonna have my brother-in-law machine up some nice stainless steel ones.

Also the spring was a Trac Dynamics 17.9kg. The stretch is 6-10 and I’m about 180 lbs. So in TD’s range of not requiring a re-valve. I went with the stronger spring because I wanted a stiffer ride than my last hayabusa.

Since the links were cheap metal I wasn’t gonna take it on the highway. After putting it together I did a circle around the neighborhood. That’s when I noticed the spring was too stiff. It had some give but not quite enough. I parked the bike for the night and was gonna remove the spring in the morning to make it not so stiff.

Could the stiff spring have caused this tab to break?

View attachment 1599505
Click to expand...
Oh man. I thought this was all done with proper dog bones. Forget all I said on my previous posts. I would think if everything was working normal with those home made bones, the black paint would’ve rubbed off where the shims contacts around the holes, due to friction from suspension going up and down. I truly feel for you and wish you the best on your repairs if you decide to move forward and weld that critical point.
 
justintime2 said:
Find it interesting that most here are saying put it back to stock and pretend nothing happened. I like to learn lessons that don't cost money as much as the next guy but you bought a brand new bike, modded part of it permanently, swapped out a structural member with one it was not designed for which then broke the frame and somehow that's the manufacturers fault?

Should it have broke? Not sure, could be a factory casting defect, could be what you did to it, but once you altered a significant part of the bike that the broken part is connected to you own it, defective or not...
Click to expand...

I disagree. If the failure was a defect unrelated to the alteration, why is that his problem? “Should it have broke? Not sure...” That’s why you take it to the dealer for possible warranty coverage.
 
Here’s both sides of the dog bones. And yes the paint is worn from the shim contact. These are flat and only used to determine the hole spacing for tail height. They were on for a quick ride around the neighborhood the night before I found the issue.

DA3DE890-2E4D-4415-AD67-7749C11D4EB1.jpeg


32FDD4DC-8C0C-49E9-94D0-EF818B055376.jpeg
 
justintime2 said:
Find it interesting that most here are saying put it back to stock and pretend nothing happened. I like to learn lessons that don't cost money as much as the next guy but you bought a brand new bike, modded part of it permanently, swapped out a structural member with one it was not designed for which then broke the frame and somehow that's the manufacturers fault?

Should it have broke? Not sure, could be a factory casting defect, could be what you did to it, but once you altered a significant part of the bike that the broken part is connected to you own it, defective or not...
Click to expand...
If you bought a brand new car, changed the wheels and the engine locked up would you take it to the dealer for a warranty claim? Of course you would. Would you put the stock wheels back on before you did? Maybe.... but you'd likely have a better chance of getting warranty work if you did.
His mods didn't cause the problem, returning it to stock is simply a way to avoid unnecessary questions about unrelated issues.
 
I’m not trying to pull a fast one on the dealer. But I honestly can’t figure out what would cause this. The dog bones are just like any other dog bone except they’re slightly longer. The cushion lever will only fit one direction and I verified it matches the factory way. All bolts were torqued exactly to factory ft. lbs.

The cushion lever has very tight tolerances and the bolts fit precisely.

I’m racking my brain trying to figure it out. Likely never will know for sure.
 
justintime2 said:
Find it interesting that most here are saying put it back to stock and pretend nothing happened. I like to learn lessons that don't cost money as much as the next guy but you bought a brand new bike, modded part of it permanently, swapped out a structural member with one it was not designed for which then broke the frame and somehow that's the manufacturers fault?

Should it have broke? Not sure, could be a factory casting defect, could be what you did to it, but once you altered a significant part of the bike that the broken part is connected to you own it, defective or not...
Click to expand...
Exactly what I was thinking!!!!! I was in the automobile business for 13 years, dealing with warranties and claims! I bent over backwards for honest people. If you lied to me, I made sure you wouldn’t do it again! I have been to court for the same and won! Magnuson/Moss warranty act prevails if you add an aftermarket blinker and your muffler bearing goes out. Not if you mess with something and it fails.


1- Go to your dealer and tell them the truth just like you did here! Ask them if there is some way they can help you? Give them your loyalty and prove that you will in the future!

2- If it fails have it welded by a professional, someone that does aircraft fabrication or such.

3- Problem solved! There will be more, no biggie!
 
Sputter said:
Exactly what I was thinking!!!!! I was in the automobile business for 13 years, dealing with warranties and claims! I bent over backwards for honest people. If you lied to me, I made sure you wouldn’t do it again! I have been to court for the same and won! Magnuson/Moss warranty act prevails if you add an aftermarket blinker and your muffler bearing goes out. Not if you mess with something and it fails.


1- Go to your dealer and tell them the truth just like you did here! Ask them if there is some way they can help you? Give them your loyalty and prove that you will in the future!

2- If it fails have it welded by a professional, someone that does aircraft fabrication or such.

3- Problem solved! There will be more, no biggie!
Click to expand...
As I said, depends on the dealer. There are plenty out there who screw customers for being honest. I worked in the industry as well, on both sales and service sides, have family members who still do. Sounds like you were someone who stood by what they sold.
 
Mr Brown said:
As I said, depends on the dealer. There are plenty out there who screw customers for being honest. I worked in the industry as well, on both sales and service sides, have family members who still do. Sounds like you were someone who stood by what they sold.
Click to expand...
It’s a experience isn’t it? I was in automotive for 19 years but 13 in service for dealerships. I had silver, gold and platinum awards from Toyota for customer satisfaction! Top 3% in the region in California. It got to a point where having integrity was a detriment for me, I had to get out in 1998. Chevrolet was the last brand I worked for and also worked a bit for Honda.
Glad to be out!
 
Sputter said:
It’s a experience isn’t it? I was in automotive for 19 years but 13 in service for dealerships. I had silver, gold and platinum awards from Toyota for customer satisfaction! Top 3% in the region in California. It got to a point where having integrity was a detriment for me, I had to get out in 1998. Chevrolet was the last brand I worked for and also worked a bit for Honda.
Glad to be out!
Click to expand...
An experience indeed! I learned a lot on both sides. Only 3 years spread between 2 different dealerships for me, but that was enough to be glad to get out. As was explained to me early on "your own mother will lie to you in a car deal..."
 
Yes the tire is offset about 1/4”. This is very common with 240 setups. I’ve never heard of a 240 without a minimal amount offset. Here are some pictures of how it was setup. Because of the shims inside the cushion lever and swingarm mounting point, the cushion lever and dog bones actually have a small amount of play side to side. I’m sure this is intentional to allow give left to right.

And the rectifier hasn’t been relocated. Simply unbolted and moved to the side.

A0D0C087-6231-4B68-92FE-3F16070FC219.jpeg


497B6E15-D46B-4F0A-B6CD-F7FC17FA534F.jpeg


038CC8BD-94B8-4EF3-A664-0540C3CB941F.jpeg


5A6D6571-1676-468D-87B9-A01BDA50CB3A.jpeg
 
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