I think I’m screwed!

So you can diagnose what caused the frame to break from a couple of pictures and an internet description? You're good...you should work for a dealer. And you seem to have the moral high ground covered as well, it must be very satisfying pointing out how others are being dishonest from your ivory tower.
It's not your job to pass character judgement on actions or recommendations, nor is it your place to determine causality for the problem at hand. I'll make it as simple as I can for you, the grinding didn't cause the break, and while the improper installation may have, that's for the dealer to determine. I offered my advice because of my experience in the field. Either the OP will follow it, or he won't. Have a great day.
I believe he actually did work or still works at dealerships, if he is who I think he is.
 
If you have to pay some one to completely disassemble the bike and reassemble the bike that’s gonna be a pretty penny, although there are probably people who could do it fairly quickly. It took me a long time to do my 1100, but I learned a lot ( many more opportunities to goof things up). Suzuki has been welding aluminum castings to extrusions for decades so it’s not much of a leap to assume your problem can be fixed.
A cool dealer may be able to warranty it because I think someone on here says Suzuki pays, not the dealer. I think that would be a very kind hearted dealer though.
I’ve had a few heart breaking moments like yours. I rounded off a cam on a motor I built (car), and I blew up a motor two days after installing a blower kit (car). Those are just the worst stories. It sucks but you learn.
 
Wow! What a read, especially when I'm in the middle of potentially destroying mine too! A couple questions that come to mind for me:

1. If you weld this, won't all of the load be taken by the perimeter of that piece and if so how can that be as strong as the original? Looking at how thick the section is that was broken off I just don't see a weld being 100% reliable.

2. This looks like it was a pretty nice build. Nice parts and done properly (no extensions). So I just don't get doing cheap dog bones? What do they cost $40-$50?
 
Also, it looks to me like the extensions on the metal bars (home made dog bones) touched something, possibly the other bolts on the linkage transferring all of the load into the part of the frame that broke off. I was not designed for this type of a twisting load and snapped off. Note that dog bones are rounded to make sure that the frame cannot have force applied to it in any axis other that the intended axis.

Just a thought.
 
Weilding that piece of alum will be very tedious and time consuming. Thats if you can find someone willing to take on the risk and responsibility. See the problem is that is structural and the wielder who takes this on will be liable if it breaks and kills you. He opens himself to being sued even if he has you sign a waver. To wield aluminum like that you have to slowly heat the source, wield a little, let it cool, heat the source weild a little let it cool. Its a long slow process. Bike will very likely have to be stripped darn near to a roller. All electrical removed etc.

On a side note, it does not pay to be dishonest about this. It will bite you. If you read the warranty, you will see that any mofifications to the bike void it. On almost all after market parts they also send this little blurb this product will probably void your warranty. Lastly, almost all after market parts state off road use only.
 
The homemade dog bones are precisely 5" distance from hole to hole on both.

And they were simply for measuring the height of the tail section to lower the bike. I have dog bones professionally made out of 316 stainless steel to exact measurements. But in order to get those measurements, a test part has to be made. These were made and painted quick; no they didn't touch/rub any other part on the bike.
 
Just to throw my 2 cents in I work for a very large power equipment dealer and the people we have go out of their way to try and warranty stuff that shouldn't be. Sometimes we get it covered sometimes we eat it. It's just gonna be roll of the dice what they do. I will say just like Ali said no way I would feel comfortable with that welded even if you can find someone to weld it. I think best thing would be talk to a dealer and one way or another get a new frame.
 
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The homemade dog bones are precisely 5" distance from hole to hole on both.

And they were simply for measuring the height of the tail section to lower the bike. I have dog bones professionally made out of 316 stainless steel to exact measurements. But in order to get those measurements, a test part has to be made. These were made and painted quick; no they didn't touch/rub any other part on the bike.
Simply for measuring? if they were not within .015 or so center to center then they will put a huge load on the mount
 
Simply for measuring? if they were not within .015 or so center to center then they will put a huge load on the mount

This!!

As far as welding goes, welding cast aluminum is extremely difficult. If it’s not fresh and clean right from the casting mold, parts acquire trash in them that cause porosity. It’s almost impossible to get a clean strong weld. I wouldn’t take that job on just based off of how much stress goes on that part.

Anyone crazy enough to take on that repair would probably charge close to what your deductible is. Insurance would total that bike instantly.

If you put it back to stock, and assemble it correctly you could likely push for the warranty as it covers manufacturers defects. Could easily argue the gram was defective.
 
I hate to say,,, i have seen the same thing on another bike. A Gen one but the same outcome. The Dog bones are what cause the problem, when you torqued the bolts, the extra steel ,broke the frame mount.
Now here is the stickey here, if there is no sign that the dog bone marred the surface of the mount,,, As many have said, put it back to stock, and try your luck with the warranty. If it has any sign,, suck it up, and buy a frame!
 
These pictures are how it broke. Those are not washers but machined shims. They go inside the mounts on left / right of knuckle.
So with out them you over tightened / stressed the cast mounts.

Hmm, I just went and checked and see that I put those on the outside when I installed my lowering links. Guess I know what I’m doing this weekend.
 
I think we all had the right intentions and I appreciate the input from everyone. Once I figure out the solution, I'll keep everyone posted.

It's definitely a lesson learned. The last thing I wanted is to get this corrected and then have it happen again; so that's a plus.



Thank you all for input and hopefully I can get this moving forward in the coming days/weeks....

If you go the welding route, if it were me, I'd always have the thought in my head that it would fail again.

Replacing the frame is the only option in my opinion. Whether you do it through warranty or buy on your own, that is the only route I'd take.
 
just had a thought, time for a streetfighter maybe? strip everything off and have a builder make you a frame. use as many stock components as possible and slam that thing back together.
 
McIntosh Fabrication did this rake job so you can weld to cast in a structural situation. And yes, I have nothing better to do than scour the web sometimes on the road. Probably be cheaper to strip the bike and replace the frame, but finding a cherry used frame with a good V.I.N. Might be tough.
1599604
 
Hmm, I just went and checked and see that I put those on the outside when I installed my lowering links. Guess I know what I’m doing this weekend.
That's an ever so easy oversight to have. I still forget which sized fairing bolts come out of which hole so end up putting the wrong length in the wrong hole. Same thing, though I cite old age and failing eyesight!
 
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