Issue on start up!

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If you look at the above pic, it has 3 connections, 1 on far right, 2 on far left, 3 in middle

2 is what is referred to as common

pin 1 is with the switch in a NC state as the circuit is complete between 1 -2 with the switch at rest - it's conductive.

pin 3, (middle) is in a NO state and is not conductive between 2 - 3 and only becomes conductive when the are is pushed down to close the actuator inside.

If this switch was on a clutch on a busa, then the 2 wires would be connected to pins 2 & 3
 
View attachment 1637519

If you look at the above pic, it has 3 connections, 1 on far right, 2 on far left, 3 in middle

2 is what is referred to as common

pin 1 is with the switch in a NC state as the circuit is complete between 1 -2 with the switch at rest - it's conductive.

pin 3, (middle) is in a NO state and is not conductive between 2 - 3 and only becomes conductive when the are is pushed down to close the actuator inside.

If this switch was on a clutch on a busa, then the 2 wires would be connected to pins 2 & 3
View attachment 1637519

If you look at the above pic, it has 3 connections, 1 on far right, 2 on far left, 3 in middle

2 is what is referred to as common

pin 1 is with the switch in a NC state as the circuit is complete between 1 -2 with the switch at rest - it's conductive.

pin 3, (middle) is in a NO state and is not conductive between 2 - 3 and only becomes conductive when the are is pushed down to close the actuator inside.

If this switch was on a clutch on a busa, then the 2 wires would be connected to pins 2 & 3
So if I were to somehow alter the Galespeed switch/lever to have it so it’s NO then all would be good?
 
You would need to open the switch housing and see if it's possible to bend the contact in such a way that it was open at rest but still made contact when you pull the lever. My guess is the switch contact that swings open to closed would not be long enough not to mention you would probably need to remove it before bending in order to clear the stationary contact. There's no guaranty there would even be room inside the switch housing for the switch contact in its bent state. I'd just order the one from Boost by Smith. He already figured everything out for you.
 
So if I were to somehow alter the Galespeed switch/lever to have it so it’s NO then all would be good?
The first thing would be to have a look at the switch and see if there's any markings on the side which may give you some info about its state.
Failing that, grab a multimeter and put in continuity mode and check what state the switch is in.
If the switch is at rest and the meter gives a tone then the switch is a NC switch and is incorrect for the busa.
If the switch at rest with the meter on the 2 leads and doens't give off the tone, then it's in a NO state and should work just fine.

If you can, grab a good close pic of the switch and post back here
 
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