JINKSTER ATTACKS "SUSPENSION"

[JINKSTER]

JINKSTER

Im a 215Lb - 5'11" rider. I used your suspension settings for my 05 Busa today and dig the new setup but have a few questions for you. Here are my settings.

Im getting some different settings on my front Preload than you. I used a 17mm socket, marked a line on the socket, and find Im getting about 15 full Revs before I'm full out. You stated I believe 12 is full out. so I did it a few times and got the same results. Am I measuring wrong- First full turn I count as 1 and when I get to 10 revs, I counted 10 full revs / thus starting with another rev would be working on 11. Im also finding that when I'm bottomed out on my Preload I see that my left and right side compression adjusters when set at zero do not share the same vertical/ horizontal pattern - is this normal---meaning both lines are not level with eachother, but both are still bottomed out.

Also, in reguards to compression and rebound, when bottomed out, do you count that as 1, or your are you counting your first click as 1?

so here are my settings, should I change anything, am I running to much pre-load on the front?

Front Preload-  12 Revs In ( As stated it seems like I have a full 15 Revs in from bottom)
Compression -   4 clicks out
Rebound-         3 clicks out

Rear Preload-   2 full Revs on the collar clockwise
Compression-   7 clicks out
Dampening-     10 clicks out

I Very much appreciate all your time, I read this thread about 6 times, and found this information and your pictures completely awesome. Thanks for helping a guy out.

Valium, while not "probable"...It's very possible that there may be a rev or two difference in the fork preload adjust from bike too bike, fork too fork but...it might also be noted that the reason I chose to back'em out and "couint in" and didn't "go the other way" (by locking'em all the way down and then counting ccw revs out) is because....

a. As mentioned I personally had an added level of difficulty due to my preload adjusters being buried in my 1 1/4" genmar riser and...

b. When I did come close to "locked down" the champher on top of the preload adjusters 17mm hex was dangerously close to allowing my 17mm socket to slip on the nut champher...and screwing up the gold anodize finish...so I opted to NOT advise folks they screw'em all the way in/down as I didn't want that happening to them...and is why I advised counting revs FROM...all the way "Backed Out".

My advise here is not to be so concerned about how many revs your preload has but to concentrate on attaining proper static/sag settings/dimensions.

"Also, in reguards to compression and rebound, when bottomed out, do you count that as 1, or your are you counting your first click as 1?"

Backing off from "full bottomed out" the first click I hear I count as (1) as...when you are fully bottomed out that means that the internal needle valve is at "hard home"..and the hydraulic flow is theoretically completely sealed off..so...the first click out is (1).

"so here are my settings, should I change anything, am I running to much pre-load on the front?"

Only you can answer that...and it could be answered correctly by recording your static/sag dimensions as prescribed in this thread.

+/- .100"/3mm is no big deal....but for those of us who are only "coming close" by "almost locking down" our spring preload?...chances are you'd be far better served by properly re-springing your busa with heavier rated straight rate springs.

Also (just as a reminder)...most of your comp. and rebound adjusment range in your adjusters is located within the first few clicks of adjustment...as the further out you go the less affect each individual click will have....and this is stereotypical of hydraulic needle valve applications.

Just the fact that so many seem thrilled with the results of tightening up their spring preload adjustments tells me that most here (including myself) would be far better served by installing heavier rate springs in their stock busa's suspension....front & rear.

L8R, Bill.

 

[DAB]

im running 42/42 now as recommended by the manual...  i pickd the bike up from the stealership; they had the front at like 52psi and rear at 48psi...  is there a reason they had it up so high or just carelessness?

That's bad setup by the dealer.

I checked my tire pressures when I had mine delivered and they were at 36/38.

This is just another reason to do your own inspection on a bike when you take delivery.

 

[MN72Busa]

JINKSTER

Thanks for replying, got to put on about 100 miles last night with your setup, and it is a completely different (In a positive manner) Bike! Even took the Fiance for a ride, and under heavy breaking with her on at about 110, and taking some mild swoopers at about 90, the bike felt very solid, and had a lot more input. I wasn't guessing on what the bike was doing or may do - I felt much more in tune with the BUsa, and I really owe you a huge thanks. Best Free MOD I've Ever Done to Any Bike I've Ever Owned!!!

When I get to a point where Im riding the bike harder, as Im still learning this bike, I will think on getting new springs. At this point, I feel like I just got another new bike with your suspension suggestions. Thanks again Bro!

 

[_ZeF]

Just tought i'd mention how much i appreciate this post! I was discussing suspension with a mechanic at a shop yesterday because i wanna adjust mine properly, perfect timing, i printed this and will be doing some adjustments this week!

 

[POR15 dist]

what would the settings be for a 210 rider? front and rear. What are people using for tire pressere also.

 

[pure_ego]

Guys...

I'm gonna say something that Jinkster shoulda said awhile back.. (IMO) ... all the material you need to do this is right there on the front page...

simple asking him what to set your suspension too isn't going to teach you anything.. if you learn how to do it yourself... using the numbers, theories he took the time to type up will be a much better plan of action..

that way you will already know what your doing on your next bike.

For the record.. I did the 'busa... big improvement.... especially in front end dive.. ..

and I also set up the SV using the same formula.. just different numbers for the suspension travel and such for the different bike..

that one was closer than the 'busa.. so not as big a change... but it still helped..

anyway.. stop asking questions when all the answers are there for you to find on your own.

If you have a specific question thats cool... but to make all the work he did on those posts go to waste by simply asking what to set your bike too.. is not a very good way to show thanks.

Thanks Jinks... finally a suspension set up guide that I understood.. !!

 

[JINKSTER]

Guys...

I'm gonna say something that Jinkster shoulda said awhile back.. (IMO) ... all the material you need to do this is right there on the front page...

simple asking him what to set your suspension too isn't going to teach you anything.. if you learn how to do it yourself... using the numbers, theories he took the time to type up will be a much better plan of action..

that way you will already know what your doing on your next bike.

For the record..    I did the 'busa... big improvement.... especially in front end dive.. ..

and I also set up the SV using the same formula.. just different numbers for the suspension travel and such for the different bike..

that one was closer than the 'busa.. so not as big a change... but it still helped..    

anyway.. stop asking questions when all the answers are there for you to find on your own.

If you have a specific question thats cool...   but to make all the work he did on those posts go to waste by simply asking what to set your bike too.. is not a very good way to show thanks.

Thanks Jinks... finally a suspension set up guide that I understood.. !!

Thank You PE.....well said...I just didn't wanna say the same and be a turn off...and enjoy...happy I could contribute something of value to this great community.

L8R, Bill.

 

[Astrogoth]

A few more pictures of the front adjustment points would be good. That avoids miscommunication.


Thanks for all the help Mr J.

 

[JB Busa]

Jinks, Thanks.


After bottoming out the suspension Sunday, I did your recommended adjustments (all except the back collar).  Wow what a difference.  I always felt like the front end was becoming unstable (bouncing) and I was going to low side it.  Now she feels like she wants to actually turn.  New springs next up.

 

[mymotorcycle]

Thx Jinkster, I've been looking for a post just like this. Tried your settings except the different rebound and compression for the front. I'm gonna try a couple of settings until I find one that suits my taste . Over all the settings were good, and the bike now rides lile it wants to be ridden hard around the corners. Thx a whole lot and I nominate your post for the best post of the year, HEHEHE!!

Ride safe and God Bless.

 

[Astrogoth]

This topic is so important to basic Busa riding that I think it deserves a makeover. The entire thing could be seen as a simple chart with the math and places for the custom numbers, front and rear, to be placed. Also, I think a collection of settings could help those who don't want to do the math but do want a somewhat better ride.

Example:

Rider- 175Lbs, Year 2004, Miles 3600 Front Static ?, Front Laden ?, Rear Static ?, Rear Laden ?.

That way we can stop asking the same questions over and over again.

 

[busafish]

is there a special suzuki shock spanner wrench I could buy instead of drift and hammer?

Does jacking up the preload raise the rear?



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[gtrpimp76]

Jinx,

Did the new adjustments and I like it. I'm 225# and my rear isn't bottoming out like it used to. I also didn't realize how much the front end dives under hard braking and how much the rear moved when the rear brake was released. I feel much more confident in the corners than I did before.

My question is what was your FULL EXTENSION measurement for the rear shock: from end of swingarm to tail? I'm not sure if you gave us the measurements. Was there an exact measurement to the rear as there was like the front forks: 3.449 +/-?

I gave it 2 revs from factory anyways and set compression=7 clicks from full clockwise and rebounding=10 from full clockwise.

Thx Bill

Ryan

 

[Charlesbusa]

is there a special suzuki shock spanner wrench I could buy instead of drift and hammer?

Does jacking up the preload raise the rear?

For the second question;
Yes, it does raise the rear. Not a lot though.

 

[gtrpimp76]

is there a special suzuki shock spanner wrench I could buy instead of drift and hammer?

Does jacking up the preload raise the rear?

For the second question;
Yes, it does raise the rear.  Not a lot though.

Which is beneficial for spirited riding and twisties. You'll also notice less "compressed" area b/c of the less travel in Laden sag it creates.

BTW-do any of you know how many mm or inches full extension of the rear swingarm-tail was supposed to be? I don't recall Jinx giving us an exact #.

 

[JINKSTER]

is there a special suzuki shock spanner wrench I could buy instead of drift and hammer?

Does jacking up the preload raise the rear?

For the second question;
Yes, it does raise the rear.  Not a lot though.

Which is beneficial for spirited riding and twisties. You'll also notice less "compressed" area b/c of the less travel in Laden sag it creates.

BTW-do any of you know how many mm or inches full extension of the rear swingarm-tail was supposed to be? I don't recall Jinx giving us an exact #.

You have 5.5"s of travel in the rear...33% of that is 1.815"s (or approx 46mm's) from full extended too "ladened sag".

Hit it within 5mm's and you're doing great...working with the spring preload and comp. damping will be your best friends to achieve this here...especially for the heavyweights amoungst us...or go to a proper rate spring available through traxxion..as the hypercoil springs they deal rock.

L8R, Bill.

 

[Astrogoth]

Anyone in the LA/SB area willing to do these settings for me. We can work out a price. I don't have access to tools or space to do it myself. Thanks!

 

[Over_Easy]

Is this a set-up that should be made right from the dealer (0 miles) or is it recommended to break the bike in a little before adjusting the settings?

 

[fasttoys1]

Great Job, my settings ended up about the same, more luck than not, just kept hammering the same road over & over & over & over. I'm riding @ 220 - 235, geared up. Still can't get fr. to feel ego boosting, I'm going for the spring replace, THANKS. Are you going to be @ Deal's Gap Apr.28-30 '06??



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[tropi_busa]

Thanks for the info. You did a really great job that is very much appreciated!