Ks contemplating a BIG BORE....

sorry to have offended you just thought you knew something and could help me out, sorry for the mistake.
 
guns.gif
rant.gif
poke.gif
 
Ive got the 1397 kit,, from Kws motorsports in South carolina, ended up with 209 at the wheel, 13:1 . I havent ever had to worry about the battery upgrade. Never had a problem with anything for that matter. It cost me 4200 in upgrades and labor, Intake cam, exhaust cam and of course the bigbore kit. Im very happy with it.
Yep I personally think you're playing with fragging your cases but hey. Its your bike and cash to waste.
that outa make the guy feel good... nuthin like the "Kind and Gentle" approach to advice givin'  
Why pussyfoot around the truth? Battery will eventually grow weak. Unless he upgrades the starter to a newer setup, the starter clutch won't save him. The kick back will frag his cases just like MANY MANY others have had happen.

You can give the best advise to some people and they'll still be convinced they know better. Till of course, it happens to them.

On a positive note, used cases only go for around $500-600. So you'll only end up spending $500-600+ a new battery+ labor+ lost usage time++++in extra parts in tear down and damage.
 
this may sound stupid but adding a turbo is not good when you run 11:1 or 12:1 ect.. is it not best to have like 6:1 to 9:1 max to get max out of the turbo when it comes to compression? Now seeing that putting these kits on be it the 1397 or 1500, 1900 ect... are their piston kits to go with it that will bring it down to optimum compression for turbo usage and what is optimum compression and max kit you can use with a turbo and intercooler ect... and remain on pump gas baseing pump gas at min of 90 and max of 93 octanes...

Also what about balancing ect.. and also degreeing of cams and radical cams what play does that have on hp vs staying on pump gas as well as being agressive but not too overly agressive if you know were I am leading too...

Thanks...
Yes turbo's with higher boost levels should see a CR of about 9:1 ish. YOU CAN bolt on a low boost kit (6psi) on a 11:1 bike BUT there then are some restriction to usage.

One thing no one is mentioning about a big bore is the fact you need to observe a lower redline due to piston speed. Overboring to a 1390, you should consider dropping your redline abilities 500-1000 rpms to keep your motor alive.
 
Ive got the 1397 kit,, from Kws motorsports in South carolina, ended up with 209 at the wheel, 13:1 . I havent ever had to worry about the battery upgrade. Never had a problem with anything for that matter. It cost me 4200 in upgrades and labor, Intake cam, exhaust cam and of course the bigbore kit. Im very happy with it.
you have your right to have your own opinion and choices, but man... that seems expensive for the power you get. I love the bigbore but it just seems the power to dollar ratio is way low compared to boosted a bike.

For a little over $500 more you could have been putting down 260+hp

if you did the install yourself it would have only costed $4k.
 
if your going in the motor do it right and spend the extra cash to do it right whether your going big or turbo, or both.
 
Ive got the 1397 kit,, from Kws motorsports in South carolina, ended up with 209 at the wheel, 13:1 . I havent ever had to worry about the battery upgrade. Never had a problem with anything for that matter. It cost me 4200 in upgrades and labor, Intake cam, exhaust cam and of course the bigbore kit. Im very happy with it.
you have your right to have your own opinion and choices, but man... that seems expensive for the power you get.  I love the bigbore but it just seems the power to dollar ratio is way low compared to boosted a bike.

For a little over $500 more you could have been putting down 260+hp

if you did the install yourself it would have only costed $4k.
I think folks will still be awhile believing that boosted bikes are streetable and will provide trouble-free service and long engine life.

The more I research it thou,it seems the troubles are greater with the big bore kits.

I'd like to see some figures big bore vs turbo in a couple of different catagories before I run out an' drop 5 grand. Motor longevity, and most importantly RELIABILTY.

The ultimate goal for me will always be a turn key bike.When I'm 500 miles from home and tired from a long day of riding that last thing I want is a finiky bike. You come outa the bar with yer buddies at the end of the day,everybody flashes up,and the almighty Busa yer sittin' on,frags the cases,blows a head gasket,nukes a set of starter clutch gears,or has a dead fuggin' battery...no thanks.

hav a stable 1...RSD.
 
this may sound stupid but adding a turbo is not good when you run 11:1 or 12:1 ect.. is it not best to have like 6:1 to 9:1 max to get max out of the turbo when it comes to compression? Now seeing that putting these kits on be it the 1397 or 1500, 1900 ect... are their piston kits to go with it that will bring it down to optimum compression for turbo usage and what is optimum compression and max kit you can use with a turbo and intercooler ect... and remain on pump gas baseing pump gas at min of 90 and max of 93 octanes...

Also what about balancing ect.. and also degreeing of cams and radical cams what play does that have on hp vs staying on pump gas as well as being agressive but not too overly agressive if you know were I am leading too...

Thanks...
Yes turbo's with higher boost levels should see a CR of about 9:1 ish. YOU CAN bolt on a low boost kit (6psi) on a 11:1 bike BUT there then are some restriction to usage.

One thing no one is mentioning about a big bore is the fact you need to observe a lower redline due to piston speed. Overboring to a 1390, you should consider dropping your redline abilities 500-1000 rpms to keep your motor alive.
ok I rather not do that... want full redline so best compression ratio for max turbo effeciency would be what I know a car they talk about 6:1 to a max of 9:1 thats a wide gurth??? so what is the opt... 6 6.5 7 7.? 8 ect.. know what I am looking for.. I rather not go bigbore after what you have said... but I rather not cheat and go with a spacer either to lower compression I am one who would rather spend the money and do it the RIGHT WAY as in new pistons and while doing that balance crank and lighten it as well as put lighter/stronger rods ect... and put right ones in to get the max out of it...  I am just info seeking, so when time to do things I am up on it all... I am the type also if I have the heads taken off ect... I will have it rebuilt right and the right things put in and the best things for it... cams valves pistons ect.... But all in all I want to run on pump gas min 90 max 93 since no all places in this country go as high as 93... and hard to find 94 were I am at... 93 is max here.. Stupid as it sounds to do...



<!--EDIT|FAKK2
Reason for Edit: None given...|1116318943 -->
 
so as to sorta try and draw this away from the pissing match currently in progress

KS, where in NC where you going?

now back to the pissing match
wink.gif
 
OMG people--isn't 169 at the rear wheel enough--Just a 4 into one pipe and an old PCII---
Rode mine at sea level yesterday for the first time.--and 87 octane makes me laugh evertime i fill up.
Noway full throttle in first--don't wanna loop my baby.
 
this may sound stupid but adding a turbo is not good when you run 11:1 or 12:1 ect.. is it not best to have like 6:1 to 9:1 max to get max out of the turbo when it comes to compression? Now seeing that putting these kits on be it the 1397 or 1500, 1900 ect... are their piston kits to go with it that will bring it down to optimum compression for turbo usage and what is optimum compression and max kit you can use with a turbo and intercooler ect... and remain on pump gas baseing pump gas at min of 90 and max of 93 octanes...

Also what about balancing ect.. and also degreeing of cams and radical cams what play does that have on hp vs staying on pump gas as well as being agressive but not too overly agressive if you know were I am leading too...

Thanks...
Yes turbo's with higher boost levels should see a CR of about 9:1 ish. YOU CAN bolt on a low boost kit (6psi) on a 11:1 bike BUT there then are some restriction to usage.

One thing no one is mentioning about a big bore is the fact you need to observe a lower redline due to piston speed. Overboring to a 1390, you should consider dropping your redline abilities 500-1000 rpms to keep your motor alive.
ok I rather not do that... want full redline so best compression ratio for max turbo effeciency would be what I know a car they talk about 6:1 to a max of 9:1 thats a wide gurth??? so what is the opt... 6 6.5 7 7.? 8 ect.. know what I am looking for.. I rather not go bigbore after what you have said... but I rather not cheat and go with a spacer either to lower compression I am one who would rather spend the money and do it the RIGHT WAY as in new pistons and while doing that balance crank and lighten it as well as put lighter/stronger rods ect... and put right ones in to get the max out of it...  I am just info seeking, so when time to do things I am up on it all... I am the type also if I have the heads taken off ect... I will have it rebuilt right and the right things put in and the best things for it... cams valves pistons ect.... But all in all I want to run on pump gas min 90 max 93 since no all places in this country go as high as 93... and hard to find 94 were I am at... 93 is max here.. Stupid as it sounds to do...
sorry bud but pistons won't gain you any real CR loss. Only options are spacer, custom rods, or custom block.

as for the "right" way to do things strictly relies on what the end result needed is. Car engines and this Busa engine are apples and oranges. Show me a 1.3L 4 cylinder car engine that can put 160 hp/95 ft/lbs to the ground.
 
PS, KSBUG what happend to your Engine. [Motor means electric Motor] we have Engines.    
cool.gif
Shucked a valve through the number three cylinder....
sad.gif


Guys, I'm going big bore because of the engine damage recently sustained. If I had it my way I'd of left everything alone.... But, since she blew up I have no choice. Turbo is not an option since that would tack another $4k on the total price.........
 
this may sound stupid but adding a turbo is not good when you run 11:1 or 12:1 ect.. is it not best to have like 6:1 to 9:1 max to get max out of the turbo when it comes to compression? Now seeing that putting these kits on be it the 1397 or 1500, 1900 ect... are their piston kits to go with it that will bring it down to optimum compression for turbo usage and what is optimum compression and max kit you can use with a turbo and intercooler ect... and remain on pump gas baseing pump gas at min of 90 and max of 93 octanes...

Also what about balancing ect.. and also degreeing of cams and radical cams what play does that have on hp vs staying on pump gas as well as being agressive but not too overly agressive if you know were I am leading too...

Thanks...
Yes turbo's with higher boost levels should see a CR of about 9:1 ish. YOU CAN bolt on a low boost kit (6psi) on a 11:1 bike BUT there then are some restriction to usage.

One thing no one is mentioning about a big bore is the fact you need to observe a lower redline due to piston speed. Overboring to a 1390, you should consider dropping your redline abilities 500-1000 rpms to keep your motor alive.
ok I rather not do that... want full redline so best compression ratio for max turbo effeciency would be what I know a car they talk about 6:1 to a max of 9:1 thats a wide gurth??? so what is the opt... 6 6.5 7 7.? 8 ect.. know what I am looking for.. I rather not go bigbore after what you have said... but I rather not cheat and go with a spacer either to lower compression I am one who would rather spend the money and do it the RIGHT WAY as in new pistons and while doing that balance crank and lighten it as well as put lighter/stronger rods ect... and put right ones in to get the max out of it...  I am just info seeking, so when time to do things I am up on it all... I am the type also if I have the heads taken off ect... I will have it rebuilt right and the right things put in and the best things for it... cams valves pistons ect.... But all in all I want to run on pump gas min 90 max 93 since no all places in this country go as high as 93... and hard to find 94 were I am at... 93 is max here.. Stupid as it sounds to do...
sorry bud but pistons won't gain you any real CR loss. Only options are spacer, custom rods, or custom block.

as for the "right" way to do things strictly relies on what the end result needed is. Car engines and this Busa engine are apples and oranges. Show me a 1.3L 4 cylinder car engine that can put 160 hp/95 ft/lbs to the ground.
ok I know about the pistons I figured if your going to have to have a certain compression for max turbo effeciency I figured get the right forged pistons... Really do not want to bore out cylinders... maybe replace the block and keep stock stuff...


cannot as far as car I was making and observaton as far as turbo's for cars they were talking about you did not want to have too high of compression and all and that the best in @6:1 to 9:1 ect... kinda see were I am leading too and all when I want to know is it like that with a Busa since I see JE pistons 8.5:1 or 8:1 for turbo's just wondering and wanting to get facts right and all... been awhile since I really got into all this and would like to know the right way and all as well as real world applications not some threory that looks nice but in the real world doesn't work as nicely as on paper... know what I mean.... I get most but if their is a perfect or best effecient ratio as far as compression rate to make the turbo be at peak that is the ratio I am seeking to find out or if their is a range... and in that range pro's and cons of them ect....

stupid as this sounds I am not up as you and johnny cheese are just want to catch up know what I want by knowing whats what...
 
Back
Top