...its OK... there there... you didn't offend me...sorry to have offended you just thought you knew something and could help me out, sorry for the mistake.
Why pussyfoot around the truth? Battery will eventually grow weak. Unless he upgrades the starter to a newer setup, the starter clutch won't save him. The kick back will frag his cases just like MANY MANY others have had happen.that outa make the guy feel good... nuthin like the "Kind and Gentle" approach to advice givin'Yep I personally think you're playing with fragging your cases but hey. Its your bike and cash to waste.Ive got the 1397 kit,, from Kws motorsports in South carolina, ended up with 209 at the wheel, 13:1 . I havent ever had to worry about the battery upgrade. Never had a problem with anything for that matter. It cost me 4200 in upgrades and labor, Intake cam, exhaust cam and of course the bigbore kit. Im very happy with it.
Yes turbo's with higher boost levels should see a CR of about 9:1 ish. YOU CAN bolt on a low boost kit (6psi) on a 11:1 bike BUT there then are some restriction to usage.this may sound stupid but adding a turbo is not good when you run 11:1 or 12:1 ect.. is it not best to have like 6:1 to 9:1 max to get max out of the turbo when it comes to compression? Now seeing that putting these kits on be it the 1397 or 1500, 1900 ect... are their piston kits to go with it that will bring it down to optimum compression for turbo usage and what is optimum compression and max kit you can use with a turbo and intercooler ect... and remain on pump gas baseing pump gas at min of 90 and max of 93 octanes...
Also what about balancing ect.. and also degreeing of cams and radical cams what play does that have on hp vs staying on pump gas as well as being agressive but not too overly agressive if you know were I am leading too...
Thanks...
you have your right to have your own opinion and choices, but man... that seems expensive for the power you get. I love the bigbore but it just seems the power to dollar ratio is way low compared to boosted a bike.Ive got the 1397 kit,, from Kws motorsports in South carolina, ended up with 209 at the wheel, 13:1 . I havent ever had to worry about the battery upgrade. Never had a problem with anything for that matter. It cost me 4200 in upgrades and labor, Intake cam, exhaust cam and of course the bigbore kit. Im very happy with it.
I think folks will still be awhile believing that boosted bikes are streetable and will provide trouble-free service and long engine life.you have your right to have your own opinion and choices, but man... that seems expensive for the power you get. I love the bigbore but it just seems the power to dollar ratio is way low compared to boosted a bike.Ive got the 1397 kit,, from Kws motorsports in South carolina, ended up with 209 at the wheel, 13:1 . I havent ever had to worry about the battery upgrade. Never had a problem with anything for that matter. It cost me 4200 in upgrades and labor, Intake cam, exhaust cam and of course the bigbore kit. Im very happy with it.
For a little over $500 more you could have been putting down 260+hp
if you did the install yourself it would have only costed $4k.
Chaaaaa ching!if your going in the motor do it right and spend the extra cash to do it right whether your going big or turbo, or both.
ok I rather not do that... want full redline so best compression ratio for max turbo effeciency would be what I know a car they talk about 6:1 to a max of 9:1 thats a wide gurth??? so what is the opt... 6 6.5 7 7.? 8 ect.. know what I am looking for.. I rather not go bigbore after what you have said... but I rather not cheat and go with a spacer either to lower compression I am one who would rather spend the money and do it the RIGHT WAY as in new pistons and while doing that balance crank and lighten it as well as put lighter/stronger rods ect... and put right ones in to get the max out of it... I am just info seeking, so when time to do things I am up on it all... I am the type also if I have the heads taken off ect... I will have it rebuilt right and the right things put in and the best things for it... cams valves pistons ect.... But all in all I want to run on pump gas min 90 max 93 since no all places in this country go as high as 93... and hard to find 94 were I am at... 93 is max here.. Stupid as it sounds to do...Yes turbo's with higher boost levels should see a CR of about 9:1 ish. YOU CAN bolt on a low boost kit (6psi) on a 11:1 bike BUT there then are some restriction to usage.this may sound stupid but adding a turbo is not good when you run 11:1 or 12:1 ect.. is it not best to have like 6:1 to 9:1 max to get max out of the turbo when it comes to compression? Now seeing that putting these kits on be it the 1397 or 1500, 1900 ect... are their piston kits to go with it that will bring it down to optimum compression for turbo usage and what is optimum compression and max kit you can use with a turbo and intercooler ect... and remain on pump gas baseing pump gas at min of 90 and max of 93 octanes...
Also what about balancing ect.. and also degreeing of cams and radical cams what play does that have on hp vs staying on pump gas as well as being agressive but not too overly agressive if you know were I am leading too...
Thanks...
One thing no one is mentioning about a big bore is the fact you need to observe a lower redline due to piston speed. Overboring to a 1390, you should consider dropping your redline abilities 500-1000 rpms to keep your motor alive.
NO!OMG people--isn't 169 at the rear wheel enough
sorry bud but pistons won't gain you any real CR loss. Only options are spacer, custom rods, or custom block.ok I rather not do that... want full redline so best compression ratio for max turbo effeciency would be what I know a car they talk about 6:1 to a max of 9:1 thats a wide gurth??? so what is the opt... 6 6.5 7 7.? 8 ect.. know what I am looking for.. I rather not go bigbore after what you have said... but I rather not cheat and go with a spacer either to lower compression I am one who would rather spend the money and do it the RIGHT WAY as in new pistons and while doing that balance crank and lighten it as well as put lighter/stronger rods ect... and put right ones in to get the max out of it... I am just info seeking, so when time to do things I am up on it all... I am the type also if I have the heads taken off ect... I will have it rebuilt right and the right things put in and the best things for it... cams valves pistons ect.... But all in all I want to run on pump gas min 90 max 93 since no all places in this country go as high as 93... and hard to find 94 were I am at... 93 is max here.. Stupid as it sounds to do...Yes turbo's with higher boost levels should see a CR of about 9:1 ish. YOU CAN bolt on a low boost kit (6psi) on a 11:1 bike BUT there then are some restriction to usage.this may sound stupid but adding a turbo is not good when you run 11:1 or 12:1 ect.. is it not best to have like 6:1 to 9:1 max to get max out of the turbo when it comes to compression? Now seeing that putting these kits on be it the 1397 or 1500, 1900 ect... are their piston kits to go with it that will bring it down to optimum compression for turbo usage and what is optimum compression and max kit you can use with a turbo and intercooler ect... and remain on pump gas baseing pump gas at min of 90 and max of 93 octanes...
Also what about balancing ect.. and also degreeing of cams and radical cams what play does that have on hp vs staying on pump gas as well as being agressive but not too overly agressive if you know were I am leading too...
Thanks...
One thing no one is mentioning about a big bore is the fact you need to observe a lower redline due to piston speed. Overboring to a 1390, you should consider dropping your redline abilities 500-1000 rpms to keep your motor alive.
The Deals Gap region......... June 18-26th.so as to sorta try and draw this away from the pissing match currently in progress
KS, where in NC where you going?
now back to the pissing match
Shucked a valve through the number three cylinder....PS, KSBUG what happend to your Engine. [Motor means electric Motor] we have Engines.
depends what you do with your're bikeNO!OMG people--isn't 169 at the rear wheel enough
what did I tell youIf you want a street bike go strictly for low to midrange grunt.
A nice 1397 with 12-1 or even 12.5-1 (upgrade battery on both to be extra safe) will impress you. )
ok I know about the pistons I figured if your going to have to have a certain compression for max turbo effeciency I figured get the right forged pistons... Really do not want to bore out cylinders... maybe replace the block and keep stock stuff...sorry bud but pistons won't gain you any real CR loss. Only options are spacer, custom rods, or custom block.ok I rather not do that... want full redline so best compression ratio for max turbo effeciency would be what I know a car they talk about 6:1 to a max of 9:1 thats a wide gurth??? so what is the opt... 6 6.5 7 7.? 8 ect.. know what I am looking for.. I rather not go bigbore after what you have said... but I rather not cheat and go with a spacer either to lower compression I am one who would rather spend the money and do it the RIGHT WAY as in new pistons and while doing that balance crank and lighten it as well as put lighter/stronger rods ect... and put right ones in to get the max out of it... I am just info seeking, so when time to do things I am up on it all... I am the type also if I have the heads taken off ect... I will have it rebuilt right and the right things put in and the best things for it... cams valves pistons ect.... But all in all I want to run on pump gas min 90 max 93 since no all places in this country go as high as 93... and hard to find 94 were I am at... 93 is max here.. Stupid as it sounds to do...Yes turbo's with higher boost levels should see a CR of about 9:1 ish. YOU CAN bolt on a low boost kit (6psi) on a 11:1 bike BUT there then are some restriction to usage.this may sound stupid but adding a turbo is not good when you run 11:1 or 12:1 ect.. is it not best to have like 6:1 to 9:1 max to get max out of the turbo when it comes to compression? Now seeing that putting these kits on be it the 1397 or 1500, 1900 ect... are their piston kits to go with it that will bring it down to optimum compression for turbo usage and what is optimum compression and max kit you can use with a turbo and intercooler ect... and remain on pump gas baseing pump gas at min of 90 and max of 93 octanes...
Also what about balancing ect.. and also degreeing of cams and radical cams what play does that have on hp vs staying on pump gas as well as being agressive but not too overly agressive if you know were I am leading too...
Thanks...
One thing no one is mentioning about a big bore is the fact you need to observe a lower redline due to piston speed. Overboring to a 1390, you should consider dropping your redline abilities 500-1000 rpms to keep your motor alive.
as for the "right" way to do things strictly relies on what the end result needed is. Car engines and this Busa engine are apples and oranges. Show me a 1.3L 4 cylinder car engine that can put 160 hp/95 ft/lbs to the ground.