Motoman break-in procedure

[Jynx]

Greetings all. Now. Before you flame me...I AM familiar with the break-in procedure that is the name of this topic.

My question is twofold.

Where is the damned link to it again...I remember reading it a couple of times but can't for the life of me remember where.

I know that most of you accept this as the "proper" way to break in a Busa...but...has anyone ever done dyno/performance stats to back up the claims? I have never read of anyone that has stats to back it up either way...

The reason that I ask...is that when I get my '05, come spring...I do NOT want to make a mistake and break it in "wrong" and end up paying with a few ponies down the road. This will be the first new bike that I buying...so if I am going to pay 10+1 grand for a new machine, I want to break it in right. I have also heard of peeps breaking bikes in with dyno pulls...any thoughts on that?

Thanks for not flaming.

 

[Jynx]

OK...Did the search with google...found the breakin procedures again and read through them again.

However...still want to know if someone besides him has stats to back up claims.

 

[BulletTrain]

To me, after subscribin' to mototune's newsletter and readin tons of his stuff, I don't need further proof. All his stuff just flat out makes sense. Of course I'm one that is always willing to try new technology and new techniques rather than just blindly following old "knowledge". If somethin' makes sense to me I try it. If it doesn't work I go back to the old ways...

As for break-in, I've always ran the shid outta my toys straight off the lot of the dealership. Always seemed that my rides (mostly stangs) were a bit stronger/quicker than most others with similar mods. The one ride I had dyno'd (98 Trans Am w/auto trans) pulled low auto equipped vette numbers after break-in. Dyno operator said it was a first for him... Said some stick cars came close but never an automatic.

I've NEVER had one that consumed oil or started puffin' smoke like a lot of the other local rides did after some mileage. The motors I've had that got pulled apart were all clean as a pin with no excessive wear or damage ANYWHERE. Never had an engine in any of my rides fail due to bein' ran HARD.

Based on my experiences and the sense that his techniques and theories make I'll continue to break 'em in like I stole 'em until it bites me in the ass or it's proven to be bad. It's gonna take more than some credentials and/or years of engine building experience or a race career with a few trophies to convince me that anyone goin' against the mototune way knows what they're talkin' about. It has worked damned well for me for YEARS. I'm not tryin' to convince everyone else to do it, I'm just layin' myn thoughts on it out there. It's yer ride. Break it in however you want.

 

[Jynx]

Eh...I kind of planned on flogging the hell out of it anyways...just wanted to test the waters.  

I will take it easy around corners and whatnot, of course, due to the new tires not being scrubbed in, but on straights, plan on pulling and decelerating HARD.  

If I end up getting it from some place that is more than 30, 40, or 50 miles...is it going to hurt anything though not changing the oil until I get home?  According to his procedures, should be changed within the first 50 for certain I would think.  Thoughts on that?  

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[gtrpimp76]

IN case you still haven't found the link:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[JKJsBUSA]

I picked my 05 up saturday and drove it home 60 miles away. I did the motoman break in and road yesturday too. I am planning on changing my oil tomorrow with 120 or 130 on it. But thats just me. I broke my fz1 and my vtx in the same way but waited till 500 miles before first change and neither of these used oil or smoked so I think this should be ok at 130. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[RaiderDm]

From the other side of the coin...
I broke mine in the Suzuki way...
Under 5K for 1st 600 miles
under 9K until the 1st 1,000 miles.
regular manual specified service every 3K miles.

Stock RWHP 160.1

Miles to date 47,056
Problems?

Clutch cylinder went out at 45,000 miles
I'm on 3rd chain (one origional, two replacements)
Need a new rear every 5-6K new front every 10-12K.

That's all folks.    

 

Raider out.



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[Sgt Busa]

This really does not sound that difficult. Now if I am wrong let me know.

Right after you get your bike from the dealership take it for a quick 20 mile ride doing the mototune thing. Then, same day not but 30 min later, take it back to the dealer and have the oil changed. After that go about your normal servicings with the bike as the manual says.

 

[paineless4u]

I broke mine in hard. Changed the oil at 8 miles and at 584. Everything seems to running great with the motor. Plan on changing the eeerllll every thousand miles that should keep her running for awhile.

 

[BulletTrain]

This really does not sound that difficult. Now if I am wrong let me know.

Right after you get your bike from the dealership take it for a quick 20 mile ride doing the mototune thing. Then, same day not but 30 min later, take it back to the dealer and have the oil changed. After that go about your normal servicings with the bike as the manual says.

No, do NOT take it to the dealer for the 30-50 mile oil change. If you do, and you tell them that you done the mototune break-in they'll likely try to fug you on the warranty. Get oil and a (Suzuki) filter and change it yourself that time, then let the stealer change it at the 600 mile service if you want to so that they don't try and fug you on the warranty if you DON'T let them do it.

You're right on just following the manufacturer's recommendations after the initial mototune break-in and 30-50 mile oil change though.

 

[GMbusa]

I broke mine in the Motoman way, no motor problems here.

 

[Revlis]

I sorta did a modified Moto-tune. Ran her hard LOTS OF LOAD, ran her in all the gear under load. Really kinda whooped her just a bit. Then after about 20 miles of the Tough Love, I backed it off and followed Suzuki's recomendations. Why? Well here is my thinking, I wanted the rings seated firmly and quickly. But once I felt that had been done I wanted to give the rest of the engine Valvetrain especially time to seat/wear in properly without undue stress or too much heat. Then after my oil changes at 600 and 1K it's fully business as usual all the time without second thought given to break in.

Right or wrong, makes sense or doesn't that's what I did. Switched to Silkolene Pro-4 Race 10W40 at 2k and she runs awesome...

 

[BulletTrain]

I sorta did a modified Moto-tune. Ran her hard LOTS OF LOAD, ran her in all the gear under load. Really kinda whooped her just a bit. Then after about 20 miles of the Tough Love, I backed it off and followed Suzuki's recomendations. Why? Well here is my thinking, I wanted the rings seated firmly and quickly. But once I felt that had been done I wanted to give the rest of the engine Valvetrain especially time to seat/wear in properly without undue stress or too much heat. Then after my oil changes at 600 and 1K it's fully business as usual all the time without second thought given to break in.

Right or wrong, makes sense or doesn't that's what I did. Switched to Silkolene Pro-4 Race 10W40 at 2k and she runs awesome...

How many miles you got on 'er now, bro?

 

[drlucian]

I did it (done for me on dyno) now have 1500 miles.

Have since read posts by knowledgeable people who says that Motoman method is no good and you should always follow factory recommendations.

Even before Motoman described his method there have always been people who said you should break it in like you will ride it and that if you break it in fast it'll be fast and vice versa.

I didn't follow the Motoman method with my Harley and it is drastically slower than my Busa.

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[The Big Red One]

I sorta did a modified Moto-tune.  Ran her hard LOTS OF LOAD, ran her in all the gear under load.  Really kinda whooped her just a bit.  Then after about 20 miles of the Tough Love, I backed it off and followed Suzuki's recomendations.  Why?  Well here is my thinking, I wanted the rings seated firmly and quickly.  But once I felt that had been done I wanted to give the rest of the engine Valvetrain especially time to seat/wear in properly without undue stress or too much heat.  Then after my oil changes at 600 and 1K it's fully business as usual all the time without second thought given to break in.

Right or wrong, makes sense or doesn't that's what I did. Switched to Silkolene Pro-4 Race 10W40 at 2k and she runs awesome...

I did kinda the same thing...but I stayed a LOT closer to the factory recommendations.....you could say I mostly followed the factory advice. I live at upwards of a mile in elevation, and even up here minus the 27-30 hp I lose my bike will still loft the front through the first 2 gears no clutch required. Its gonna be ungodly fast at sea level...and I know since I broke it in closer to the factory way that I won't be looking at premature valve train, bearing ect wear/failure which is what the race break-in tends to do sometimes. There's a reason the factory gives those suggestions...its cause they don't want a bunch of warranty work (although I know there's always the conspiracy theories....lol)
I'm planing on keeping this bike for the long haul...so I preferred a long haul break in

just my .02 worth.......

I really think the Moto-man way breaks the bike in quicker (which is a must for racing) but not better than the factory recommended way.

 

[Sgt Busa]

Damn

All good points.

 

[Aughtsix]

Oh what the hell - may as well toss my hat in this ring as well...

I think Motoman is full of hot gas, and I'm the one making the payments...


New bike time -- Find a bike that's not been prepped. Instruct the dealer NOT to start the bike. I want zero running time at the dealer. I know what a running bike should sound/act like - I'll determine when I get there if there's any problems and I don't want pimple-face Johnny reving the snot out of my new engine to impress his friends or some other customer.

Run the bike to the nearest place to dump the oil, even if they're not home and you've never met them before...

Refill with cheap crap car oil - change filter. Find a nice place to park and let her cool down significantly (2 to 3hrs).

Run her easy in the first few gears - light throttle - constantly varying rpm to a maximum of around 4000, for no more than 20 minutes.

Find another place to park and let her cool down once again - 2 to 3hrs.

Repeat.

Get home, dump oil and change filter.

Refill with high quality motorcycle dino. Let her sit until dead cold.

Take her out and run through first to fourth, constantly varying rpm to around 4-5000 rpm, applying a maximum of half throttle - enough to get a good load on the rings. This is where I like to find a good hill. Run her up the hill under load, turn around and come down the hill under no load. Go back up the hill under load, turn around and come down the hill under no load. Do this for around 30 minutes.

Park and cool.

Repeat.

Take her home and let her sit until dead cold.

Then, slowly, increase the time out, and increase the throttle up to around three-quarters, though I won't go full throttle or exceed 6000 rpm until I've gone a minimum of 15 or so running hours. Constantly vary rpm and load, and give her lots of cooling periods.

Dump the oil and filter at around 5-600 miles. Refill with the same high quality motorcycle dino.

After I've reached 25 or so running hours, I start to open her up, stepping my way up to full throttle and redline. I will have reached full throttle and redline by around 30 or so running hours.

Dump the oil and filter again at around 1000 miles. Refill with the same high quality motorcycle dino.

At 3000 miles I switch to BelRay EXS.

That's my run-in procedure - sort of a mixture I guess, but much closer to factory than Motoman. It's my opinion that Motoman's procedure, while probably good for the ring seating, is too tough on everything else. The brand new engine in my new pride and joy consists of more than just rings...

YMMV

Steve

 

[The Big Red One]

Oh what the hell - may as well toss my hat in this ring as well...

I think Motoman is full of hot gas, and I'm the one making the payments...


New bike time  --  Find a bike that's not been prepped.  Instruct the dealer NOT to start the bike.  I want zero running time at the dealer.  I know what a running bike should sound/act like - I'll determine when I get there if there's any problems and I don't want pimple-face Johnny reving the snot out of my new engine to impress his friends or some other customer.

Run the bike to the nearest place to dump the oil, even if they're not home and you've never met them before...  

Refill with cheap crap car oil - change filter.  Find a nice place to park and let her cool down significantly (2 to 3hrs).

Run her easy in the first few gears - light throttle - constantly varying rpm to a maximum of around 4000, for no more than 20 minutes.

Find another place to park and let her cool down once again - 2 to 3hrs.

Repeat.

Get home, dump oil and change filter.  

Refill with high quality motorcycle dino.  Let her sit until dead cold.

Take her out and run through first to fourth, constantly varying rpm to around 4-5000 rpm, applying a maximum of half throttle - enough to get a good load on the rings.  This is where I like to find a good hill.  Run her up the hill under load, turn around and come down the hill under no load.  Go back up the hill under load, turn around and come down the hill under no load.  Do this for around 30 minutes.  

Park and cool.

Repeat.

Take her home and let her sit until dead cold.

Then, slowly, increase the time out, and increase the throttle up to around three-quarters, though I won't go full throttle or exceed 6000 rpm until I've gone a minimum of 15 or so running hours.  Constantly vary rpm and load, and give her lots of cooling periods.

Dump the oil and filter at around 5-600 miles.  Refill with the same high quality motorcycle dino.

After I've reached 25 or so running hours, I start to open her up, stepping my way up to full throttle and redline.  I will have reached full throttle and redline by around 30 or so running hours.

Dump the oil and filter again at around 1000 miles.  Refill with the same high quality motorcycle dino.

At 3000 miles I switch to BelRay EXS.

That's my run-in procedure - sort of a mixture I guess, but much closer to factory than Motoman.  It's my opinion that Motoman's procedure, while probably good for the ring seating, is too tough on everything else.  The brand new engine in my new pride and joy consists of more than just rings...  

YMMV

Steve

Hey Aught....something we agree on!......