My experiance with a Rock Solid Manufacturing Clutch

[Stevo80]

I think they breaking news here is not some much the slider.....even though the rock solid slider it doing very well.... alot of people that have run other brand sliders and have changed to the Rock Solid slider couldnt be happier... I think its more user friendly.... Its the "hand slider" setup thats breaking news... Being able to go from a normal hand clutch to slider in just minutes . Ride it to the track.....pop cover...throw a tune in it..BAM slider.

That is what I'm excited about! My bike is virtually stock with a stretch and a pipe. I ride to the track ALMOST every single time I go. If I can ride a bike there and get one to go deep into the 8's and maybe even lower and whoop up on some unsuspecting guys, I will be one satisfied customer! Did I mention I ride at least 15xxx miles a year!

 

[Quicker Gixxer]

What is meant by "throw a tune in it"? I'm sure it's some type of adjustment...or a quick part switch? But I'd like to know the details...thanks,

 

[ws116]

The latest Rock Solid has adjustable static springs (what you feel when you pull the lever). You tighten these up for normal driving and loosen them up for racing.

 

[toddy]

Hi all
I,m running a 68" gen2 with an unopened mtr down here in Oz. No bars just the usual mods, PC5, Quickshifter, Sidewinder, Brock's clutch mod etc. looking to use either a hays or RSM on a two step. Can this be a ride back to pits deal in slider mode? Are any of you guys using them this way? I like the compression springs on the RSM as opposed to ext spring, but the Hays also has a great rep. Interested to hear from others on this. Bike never hits the street anymore.
Thanks guys
Toddy

 

[icemansid]

I run the Hays. Hands down the best after-market part ever purchased. It can be ridden back in slider mode.

 

[Dennis]

Hi all
I,m running a 68" gen2 with an unopened mtr down here in Oz. No bars just the usual mods, PC5, Quickshifter, Sidewinder, Brock's clutch mod etc. looking to use either a hays or RSM on a two step. Can this be a ride back to pits deal in slider mode? Are any of you guys using them this way? I like the compression springs on the RSM as opposed to ext spring, but the Hays also has a great rep. Interested to hear from others on this. Bike never hits the street anymore.
Thanks guys
Toddy

You can ride the RSM clutch back to the pits. I have my static spring adjustments all the way out (minimum pressure) and as long as you are easy on the throttle you can even ride down the highway just fine. It is a hand slider, not a full slider, so you will need to hold the lever at the line.

 

[Kevin Jones]

So just by tightening the static screws all the way in, you can street drive? I thought I would have to add weight to the arms too.

 

[Dennis]

I haven't turned mine more than 2 turns. I don't know where coil bind comes into play, and I don't know that you will get enough pressure with only the static springs. You may want to put some weight on, or possibly put in the lightest dynamic springs. If you put too much weight on you can't pull the lever at elevated rpm's which is not ideal on the street.

FYI Hayes makes a direct copy of the RSM clutch. It looks like the parts could be interchangeable it is that close.

 

[Kevin Jones]

The Hays model revolution is the one I have. I called Tim and even after a discussion with him, he wasn't sure what to do to make it streetable. I bought it from Walter Sprout who has been in my dealings with him, somewhat misleading. Walter actually told me to physically take the static springs completely out which made no sense to me. I mean really. Tim said absolutely not to try that.

 

[Dennis]

I wonder if he meant to take the springs under the arms out.

 

[Kevin Jones]

I was going to install next weekend, was going to look at springs, I am missing 5 of the 12 screws that hold the basket to the hub. I haven't touched this thing. Unfucking real how some people's reputations somehow perpetuate.

 

[Kevin Jones]

If you removed the springs under the arms, would you be relying completely on the static springs and stack height for slippage prevention just like an oem clutch?

 

[Dennis]

The springs under the arms resist the arms moving out. When the arms move out they apply clamping pressure on the clutch stack. If you took those springs out the clutch would clamp up quicker and stronger. Who knows, the centrifugal forces might overcome the static springs at idle, or it could quickly overcome the statics at higher rpms and pull the clutch out of your hand if you revved it with the clutch pulled. I guess you could start by going with 6 of the lightest springs, then take two springs out, then four, then all six if it worked out. I'm not recommending it, just thinking about how the clutch works.

 

[Kevin Jones]

Thank you for helping me. I will try to go with the lightest springs first. I do not believe removing the arm springs or the static springs is the answer and the source also told me that my 1:1 regulator should be connected to the throttle bodies along with various other things which turned out to be misinformation. Tim however said that tightening the static screws which is what you described you do to ride your race tune on the street and that using both screw holes on the arms might be an option as well.

 

[Dennis]

I would be careful with too much weight. The more weight the lower rpm you won't be able to pull the lever and the quicker it will pull the lever from your hand.

 

[Kevin Jones]

Ok, so I think I am decrypting it. Static is static just like any other clutch. Im not taking those springs out. A good street configuration for this clutch seems very tricky. I may try the lighter springs and if that doesn't work out, just keep my lock up which I have figured out completely and if I can throw a 1.3 with that, I am good with that.

 

[Dennis]

Street tune is an unknown for me . It may or may not be tricky, I just haven't tried.

Yes static is like any other but adjustable.

 

[ty_ty13]

on cars the base weight is what initially moves the car but still lets the clutch slip when a little power is applied, where as the arms/levers do the job to lock up and make the tranny go 1:1 with the motor when alot of rpm/force is applied. the more counter weight you add the more HP the clutch can "lock up" because more weight adds more force to the clutch. if you put much counter weight on the arms and pull the clutch and rev it very high it will slam the clutch shut and launch.... be careful when testing.

I would assume this to be very similar.

 

[Dennis]

Even with the normal weight you can have the clutch pull out of your hand with too many rpms. You also can't pull the clutch at high rpm's.

 

[Kevin Jones]

I was talking to a guy about the clutch on psychobike chan on facebook and we were trying to figure out a street tune. Tim has a base track tune but doesn't have a sure thing recipe for the revo for street, he does for the convertible. It ended up deteriorating into an argument with me and Sprout and it was ugly. If I cant figure it out, I may sell and just stay with the lock ups. I don't know. If I can get a 1.3 out of my lock up, I would be happy enough with that to stick with. The difference between 1.3 and 1.16 isn't that important to me. I race for fun.