Need Brake Pad advice
- Thread starter Dola225
- Start date
Go do a track day. Your rotors will not be happy.
I have done a few trackdays and I am running the EBC HH pads and my rotors are fine no warping
Curious why you all are against EBC HH pads or HH in general when the factory ones on Gen II are HH ? At least in front they are .
I have used the EBC HH pads for years on the street and the track...NEVER had a problem with them of any kind
I recently put EBC HH all the way around on mine. I think the back pads are somehow dragging more than they should. When I come to a stop and get off no matter from what speed or for how long the ride the rotor and caliper in the rear are much hotter than the fronts even though I use the fronts more ? Also after six hundred miles on them I still hear a slight hissing from them, kinda like a fly buzzing on a window trying to get out ?
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+1
Because people think HH is some sort of super "racing" pad and have no idea what it really means.
Running a GG pad would be a bad idea.
Cut and paste from;
http://www.ornl.gov/~webworks/cppr/y2001/rpt/112956.pdf
4.1 Edge Codes
The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) developed a Friction Identification System for
Brake Linings and Brake Blocks (SAE Recommended Practice SAE J866a). Consisting of two
letters, these so-called ‘edge codes’ were stamped on the sides of commercial brake replacement
linings and blocks as a guide for motor vehicle maintenance and repair shops.
The first code letter represents the ‘normal friction coefficient,’ determined by averaging four
points on the second fade curve in SAE brake material test method J661 (“Chase Machine”),
measured at 200, 250, 300 and 400
o
F. The second is called the ‘hot friction coefficient.’ It
averages 10 experimentally-determined points from the same test: 400 and 300
o
F on the first
fade recovery; 450, 500, 550, 600, and 650
o
F on the second fade segment; and 500, 400, and
300
o
F on the second recovery segment. Additional qualifications are given in SAE J866a.
SAE Recommended Practice J866a lists the following codes and associated friction coefficients:
Code
Friction Coefficient
C
#0.15
D
>0.15 but # 0.25
E
>0.25 but # 0.35
F
>0.35 but # 0.45
G
>0.45 but # 0.55
H
>0.55
Z
underclassified"
If you are riding a sport bike like a Busa it COMES STOCK WITH HH PADS. Still aftermarket pad may have a greater coefficient of friction or a different "feel".
cheers
ken
Great post, Ken.
I've been using EBC HH on my '03 for 60,000+ miles and still using the same rotors. No warping evident at all. Only three days of track time on it during that time.
Also, I have SS lines with that. Works great. Been so long since I've had any other pad on there I can't remember what anything else feels like.
Kinda makes a cool buzz, too!
--Wag--
I've been using EBC HH on my '03 for 60,000+ miles and still using the same rotors. No warping evident at all. Only three days of track time on it during that time.
Also, I have SS lines with that. Works great. Been so long since I've had any other pad on there I can't remember what anything else feels like.
Kinda makes a cool buzz, too!
--Wag--
I recently put EBC HH all the way around on mine. I think the back pads are somehow dragging more than they should. When I come to a stop and get off no matter from what speed or for how long the ride the rotor and caliper in the rear are much hotter than the fronts even though I use the fronts more ? Also after six hundred miles on them I still hear a slight hissing from them, kinda like a fly buzzing on a window trying to get out ?
Any comments as to the heat in my rear
or the hissing sound. Never not any squeak just like I said a slight little bzzzzzzzzzz.........???
Any comments as to the heat in my rear
or the hissing sound. Never not any squeak just like I said a slight little bzzzzzzzzzz.........???
man...this is odd...as a while back i sort lightly toasted my front rotors with some ferrodo? brake pads and as soon as i seen the initial signs?...(discoloration and an oh so slight pulsing of my front brake lever)..i tossed the ferrodos and slapped on some ebc-hh's...along with some light sanding and scotchbrighting of my rotors and guess what...the ebc-hhs seemed to slowly make the pulsing go away...not entirely but...a lot of it...now i need need new rotors/pads though...as the last hot run in the mountains sorta smoked/warped'em again.
I think upgraded rotors (not Chinese ones!) will shed heat more efficiently, that being said, there are too many happy Busa riders with OEM rotors, s/s lines and aftermarket "racing" pads that put thousands of hard yet troublefree miles on their Busas to say conclusively that it's a bad idea.
OK, here's where I might generate "hate mail" on the subject.....
The singlemost meaningful improvement one can do to their braking system is focus on their brake use style. My learning on the subject reveals that intense brake use from high speed for a short period is far more efficient than multiple application of brakes in the same environment. In other words, it's not how intensely you grip the brakes as much as the amount of time you spend braking.
This isn't as easy to explain as I thought but, using a track (because one lap is a finite measurable testing environment) you time how much of the lap you are applying the brake(s) and work on reducing that time. In terms of friction/heat generation, brakes only know TWO THINGS....building up heat and cooling off. The solution is to create more cooling off time in lieu of heat creating time.
The reason I bother to try to explain this is in my own experience, my brakes seem to last a lifetime because of this technique. Less brakes = less heat. Raydog
OK, here's where I might generate "hate mail" on the subject.....
The singlemost meaningful improvement one can do to their braking system is focus on their brake use style. My learning on the subject reveals that intense brake use from high speed for a short period is far more efficient than multiple application of brakes in the same environment. In other words, it's not how intensely you grip the brakes as much as the amount of time you spend braking.
This isn't as easy to explain as I thought but, using a track (because one lap is a finite measurable testing environment) you time how much of the lap you are applying the brake(s) and work on reducing that time. In terms of friction/heat generation, brakes only know TWO THINGS....building up heat and cooling off. The solution is to create more cooling off time in lieu of heat creating time.
The reason I bother to try to explain this is in my own experience, my brakes seem to last a lifetime because of this technique. Less brakes = less heat. Raydog
JINKSTER .........Please explain......."[...as the last hot run in the mountains sorta smoked/warped'em again. " /I]
As I live In SoFla myself I am unfamiliar with what "mountains" you may be running hot in around Pt.St. Lucie ?
There is nothing higher than landfills from here to at least north of Daytona that I know of ????
As I live In SoFla myself I am unfamiliar with what "mountains" you may be running hot in around Pt.St. Lucie ?
There is nothing higher than landfills from here to at least north of Daytona that I know of ????
let me know if you need some pads and make you a good deal on rotors also.
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