Need help with purchase of dry nitrous kit

MN72Busa

Formerly known as "Zuki"
Donating Member
Registered
Well, Im looking at getting a Dry-NOS system for the Busa, and have come up with the parts I think I will need. Can I get some input if you think Im going the right route, and give suggestions or input to my setup. Am I missing anything?

MPS - 40 Shot Dry with 2Lb bottle

MPS - Fuel injection mixture contol (Fast FI)

Tiger - under the hump bottle holder

WMS - WOT Plate

DynoTune - Square Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauges (blue)
 
It looks to me like you nailed it on the head,just need a tune after then.
 
What dose the MPS FI box do then if you still need to get the bike tuned if you install it?
Otherwise the rest looks good. Mabey someone else can tell me about the box then
 
hey bro...here's the info from MPS

<span style='color:crimson'>Fast, quick, easy electronic fuel injection fuel management. That’s what is in the package of every MPS Fast FI Mixture Control. The original “MPS Mixture Controlâ€￾ sold in 1981 was the first motorcycle fuel injection aftermarket product. The second generation Fast FI Mixture Control sets new standards for fuel management with a dry nitrous system incorporating the instant rich feature. The Fast FI Mixture Control was designed to be a universal application and will work on most late model four cylinder electronic fuel injected motorcycles.

The MPS Fast FI Mixture Control P/N 1-0337 is a simple means to adjust the fuel curves on your fuel-injected motorcycle. This allows for tuning after the installation of aftermarket exhausts, intake modifications, or internal motor modifications. It can only richen the fuel mixture. It cannot lean the mixture. The Fast FI Mixture Control has a low speed pot that adds fuel at low speed much like a mixture screw on a carburetor. The accelerator pump pot is an extra enrichment when the unit senses rapid rpm acceleration. This acts like the traditional accelerator pump on a carburetor. The high-speed pot controls the high RPM like the main jet of a carburetor. The high-speed RPM set pot determines what RPM the low speed pot is no longer controlling the mixture and the high-speed pot takes over. The Fast FI Mixture Control has an instant rich feature to work with Dry Nitrous Systems. It locks the fuel injection system in a full rich mode instantly via a signal from the Dry Nitrous System. This means no more reprogramming for NOS operation. The Fast FI Mixture Control looks at the fuel injection map the same way the factory does and adjusts it the same way the factory does. Because our product is not compatible with other aftermarket products we recommend removing any other type of non-factory adjustments, downloads, etc. before installing the Fast FI Mixture Control.


That's right...........an incredible 216.5 horsepower from a stock Hayabusa! Our customer came in and bought our Dry Nitrous Kit and a Fast FI Mixture Control for his Hayabusa. Went home and installed them both. A couple days later he wanted some help with jetting so off we went to the dyno. We made the first pull with all stock settings in the Fast FI Mixture Control and no nitrous. That baseline pull netted an average 155.9 horsepower. The next pull we sprayed it with a 36 nitrous jet using the instant rich feature on the Fast FI Mixture Control. That pull was good for 194.1 horsepower and the sniffer indicated its still pretty rich. This is really good news because we can get almost 40 horsepower from a really rich mixture providing an extra measure of safety from hurt parts. We made the next pull with a 43 nitrous jet. It made 216.5 and was still rich. We stopped there even though there was more left obviously.</span>


I think Im going to skip the WOT plate, and just active when I want from the horn switch. Yah, still have to get a map made to be on the safe side....sounds like I could bump up middle and high rpm zones by a few bars, but when not on the NOS _ I would be always running richer than I should.

Here's the link to the MPS FAST FI box


MPS FAST FI

And MidnightBusainSD - just to also let ya know, Im thinking of going dual nosels...one for each side of the air inlet tubes....and going all stainless lines instead of vinyl. Plan on mounting the selenoid in the tail...sounds like it wont hit as hard, but keeps it cool and out of the way. What you thinkin on this plan bro....?
 
You can leave the map in you already have made if it's custom,and then tune the nos and fi box to the right a/f so when you hit it that it's correct....
 
couldnt you just go w/o on the injectors with the mps box when you hit the button? i might run rich on the nitrous but who cares its better than lean.
 
I can't wait!!
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The duals are probly alright i guess i've never ran duals i'm not sure what size jets you will need for sure to achieve the 40-60hp shot that you wana run in the end though

And well i guess the MPS box would be good for the fact you can only have it richen the bike only when you activate the nos and it would be running normal map for the every day running but sounds like that will still require the dyno time to even do that right. So i guess that will beyour call then
 
Daniel.

Ok...maytbe too much Johnnywalker...but hit me up wioth a price bro.....I need some NOS....
 
For those with a PCIII USB already....there is no need for the MPS...after reading it's function....it performs almost all of the same functions as the Accelerator Pump software feature that is downloadable for free.
The "AP" feature allows setting for sensitivity, engine revolutions and percentage for fuel as well as duration of function.

Those with anything less than the PCIIIUSB or modded fuel mamngement will have to remove them, according to the MPS site.
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The info off the "AP" .PDF ...sorry for the format...it was a "select text" feature


Remember the accelerator
pump in carburetors?
You’d crack open the
throttle hard and that
pump would squirt out a
nice shot of extra fuel right when
it was needed. A sudden increase
in the air flow—like what happens
when you turn up the wick hard
and fast—requires an equal
increase in fuel to keep an engine’s
power delivery smooth, steady
and seamless, and that’s just what
that accelerator pump
did. And it worked
great, too, remember?
That fuel-delivery
function is now part of
the EFI world and the
Power Commander. An
accelerator pump
utility is available as an
upgrade for all PCIII
USB models, it’s easily
downloaded directly
from the Dynojet website, it’s easily
installed, and it’s FREE!
Here’s what’s involved. Simply
download the “Accelerator Pumpâ€
utility file from www.powercommander.
com, connect your Power
Commander III USB to your computer
and then load and run the
utility. And, just like with those
old accelerator pumps of days
gone by, the ones in carburetors,
the Dynojet accelerator pump
function for today’s EFI systems is
totally adjustable. You can vary
the amount of extra fuel added,
set the throttle action that’ll trigger
the “pump†function, and you
can set for how long that extra
shot of fuel is added. Unlike
adjusting a carburetor’s accelerator
pump, though, there are no
screws to turn, no tangs to bend,
no pins or links to move around.
Adjusting the accelerator pump
function on a Power Commander
all happens with a keyboard and a
mouse, and it’s simple.
Once you’ve downloaded and
launched the new utility, select
“Enable Accell Pump Feature.â€
(Make sure you have your Power
Commander connected.) Launch
the Power Commander software,
and on your laptop’s screen you’ll
find the “Accelerator Pump†function
under the “Power
Commander Tools†drop-down
menu. Configuring, or tuning, the
accelerator pump happens right
here. There’s a “Sensitivity†setting,
an “Engine Revolutions†setting,
and a “Percentage Of Fuelâ€
setting, and the values you enter
for each determines how the
accelerator pump reacts, how
quickly it reacts, how much extra
fuel is added, and for how long.
With a little experimentation and
some road testing you can dial in
exactly the response you’re looking
for.
The “Sensitivity†scale adjusts
the speed at which the throttle
must be opened to activate the
accelerator pump. The more sensitive
you make this setting the
slower the throttle movement
required to activate the “pump.â€
The “Engine Revolutions†setting
determines how long the extra
fuel will be added, anywhere from
just 1 RPM to 40. The “Percentage
Of Fuel†sets the amount added.
That’s it.
Now, what are the ideal settings?
That’s going to vary.
Different riders on different bikes
might want different settings.
Some racers, for example, have
found that a 75 percent
Sensitivity, 20 percent Fuel
Increase, and 15 Engine
Revolutions worked just fine for
them. Some street riders, on the
other hand, have had great results
with a 90 percent Sensitivity setting,
15 percent Fuel Increase, and
20 Engine Revolutions. The best
setting for any bike depends on
the bike and riding style of the guy
on it. It wouldn’t be at all unusual,
either, for different riders on the
same bike to choose different settings.
It wouldn’t be hard to
change those settings, either.
Pretty neat, wouldn’t you say?
Dynojet’s Accelerator Pump function
is applicable for all PCIII USB
models. Sorry, Power
Commander II and III hardware
don’t support the function. But if
you already have a PCIII USB get
online now and get the
Accelerator Pump. It’s ready right
now, and it’s FREE!
 
I honestly haven't had time to mess with the pump,but i will not confirm nor deny if it will do the same thing or not as the mps box..
 
BusaCruise - Good Info ! I remember downloading the software last fall, but didnt have a clue to what it did. I called DynoJet today, and talked with a tech for some time - anyhow...I think the software upgrade/ addition is the ticket...Very Adjustable, very reliable, and if your pc3usb goes dead well your not running period - where if the mps decided to fry, you could have a little issue or 2. Now Im not knocking the MPS box...just makes sense for me to use the DynoJet setup as I already have it and dont have to spend the extra $$$. Plus, since Im going back in to have the map reworked for NOS, heck they can adjust the USB with the Accelerator Pump and tell me if it works or not.
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PM or email me the package price (with and without mps box). I still have to talk to my tuner about the Accelerator pump & MPS box - just havent had time, and will be working 80 hours over the next 8 days, so Im sorta lacking free time right now.

Daniel, you know what I want - a safe, reliable kit, but dont want to spend extra $$$ where I dont have to. AS much as I consider info from DynoJet top-notch, they wont be working on my busa, and have to talk to the dyon-tuner at my shop to see if he knows how to work with this Accelerator Pump software with Nitrous.
 
Take this scenario into mind since everyone thinks the ap thing is the way to go...What do you do about the accellerator pump when your not using the nitrous and all of a sudden you wack the throttle the same as you would if the nitrous was on,what is the bike gonna do cause it has nothing extra there to help consume the fuel????It's gonna run Super Rich Right??/What does super rich do to a bike's performance???It KILLS HP....What did you achieve???can you toggle back and forth on the move with the accelerator pump ???NO....You guys might get what I'm trying to say...Use what you use,I'll use what i know works....
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To sum it up, are we saying that it is better to have a MPS mixture control box with a dry nitrous system then to just bump the map?
 
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