Need help with purchase of dry nitrous kit

so, if you go through the trouble of putting NO2 on the bike and programming it for sensitivity....then you know what "type" of throttle will activate the AP....say a quick WOT condition.
The Busa has more than enough get-up-and-go to make the rounds without that type of twist in everyday street life. You can still go WOT and not activate the AP....you just have to do it slower.

for someone that is getting an introduction to NO2 and can't pony up ALL the $$$ at once...this is an alternative route.

If he were looking at a wet kit...I would never have even mentioned it.
 
You cannot add enough fuel for a NOS application with the accelerator pump.  All it does is add a little bit extra fuel for just a split second.  It will not add any fuel over a sustained period of time.  Adding fuel with AP is useless with NOS.

You have three possible easy solutions:

1.  The best solution is to use the MPS box.  You will have all the extra fuel you need only when you need it.  Once it is properly tuned on NA and with NOS you can forget about it and never touch anything.

2.  Add enough extra fuel at 100% throttle on your power commander in the rpm range you will be using NOS.  The only drawback to this solution is that you will have extra fuel when not using NOS and you will be down about 5 HP when running NA.  You could make two maps, an NA map and a NOS map.  Then load the appropriate map when needed.

3.  Add fuel with PC3 by using the bars.  Adjust high setting only.  Depending on how much NOS you use, you will end up going about 2-3 bars richer.  You effectively have two easily changed tune-ups.   When on the juice bump it up and when running NA bump it back down.

Whatever solution you use, you must put it on the dyno and get an AF reading.  You have no idea if your stock fuel system or if your method of adding fuel are actually working correctly. I've seen to many faulty stock fuel systems and too many faulty fuel adders.   You must verify everything.

If ya don't get it on the dyno, you'll either get lucky or you'll be sorry...

Here's a few dyno runs of my '03 Busa.  Engine mods are: Muzzy pipe, PC3R, and a dry shot.

Air temp was cool, so bottle pressure was only 650-700 PSI. Should make a hair more power with warmer bottle and increased pressure - and could require a little more fuel when running the larger NOS jets.

I made a custom map for NA and then added fuel for NOS by richening the high button 3 bars on the PC3R, and remained at that setting for all NOS runs.  When the motor was running NA with 3 bars it ran OK (didn't hesitate, or missfire - felt about the same).  But, with the over rich condition it lost 3-5 HP.  Four bars really killed the NA power.

The AF was good and safe by simply richening it with the bars.  I did it this way for the convenience of switching tune-ups between NA and NOS runs by using the buttons instead of dragging a computer along to change maps while at the dragstrip.  Since I had it on the dyno and monitored the AF, I knew what the results would be when I changed it at the track.  On the juice at 64" wheelbase it ran 9.03 @ 153.

If you install a NOS system on your bike you might not get the same results by tuning it with the bars - every bike performs a little differently.  You still need to get it on a dyno and check the AF while on the juice.  You don't know if everything is working as it should be unless you check it.

In the following dyno runs, Nos was activated at 7,750 rpm and shut off at 10,000 rpm.  Here's the details:

203 HP - 36 jet...A/F 12.5 3 bars rich, high button
196 HP - 32 jet...A/F 12:1 3 bars rich, high button
192 HP - 28 jet...A/F 11.8 3 bars rich, high button
187 HP - 24 jet...A/F 11.5 3 bars rich, high button
166 HP - NA.......A/F 13.0 0 bars
163 HP - NA.......A/F 11.0 3 bars rich, high button

NOS203AF.jpg




<!--EDIT|Buzzard
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Thanks for stepping in Buzz...I know you had all the info on paper somewhere...
 
perhaps a little more thought needs to be put into the wording...because it specifically states:

POINT 1
"The “Engine Revolutionsâ€￾ setting
determines how long the extra
fuel will be added"

POINT 2
THAT"S what I would interpret the "sensitivity" setting is for...you can be at 100% without activating it...thus, no xtra fuel.

POINT 3
the AP is separate you will leave the "high" setting alone, thus retaining your ideal map ....if you have no AP function (NON USB PC like yours)...then yes you would have been correct.


I still agree that the dyno is going to play a big part in it....the A/F HAS to setup correctly...

Until somebody chimes in that has actually tried (with dyno) to use the PC USB and can say that it will not work...then it's still an option.
I suppose Valium could always buy the MPS and return it later if not needed...since that's the obvious objective.
 
Until somebody chimes in that has actually tried (with dyno) to use the PC USB and can say that it will not work...then it's still an option.
Been there, done that.  It's not an option.  The AP function is never used for adding fuel for NOS.  That's what the main map or buttons are for.

You posted the instructions and one paragraph explains it all:

The “Sensitivity†scale adjusts
the speed at which the throttle
must be opened to activate the
accelerator pump. The more sensitive
you make this setting the
slower the throttle movement
required to activate the “pump.â€
The “Engine Revolutions†setting
determines how long the extra
fuel will be added, anywhere from
just 1 RPM to 40. The “Percentage
Of Fuel†sets the amount added.
That’s it.

When you move the throttle (can be adjusted for how quick - sensitivity) the ap adds just a splash of fuel for up to a max of only 40 RPM! !   That's all.

The only purpose of the AP is to add a little fuel if the engine hesitates upon acceleration due to a slight lean condition.  It's rarely used.



<!--EDIT|Buzzard
Reason for Edit: None given...|1141554927 -->
 
Cruise,simple as what he is stating IT IS NOT A OPTION...Nitrous needs fuel to burn or it uses something else as fuel(YOUR ENGINE METAL....PISTONS,VALVES,Cylinder walls),fuel doesn't need nitrous to burn...so an accelator pump in the old carbs didn't spray continously it only sprayed when a quick twist was given,so what makes you think a usb ap would work any different?
rock.gif
?


Answer this question and you will decipher what DJ is saying in their statement...Do you think DJ has ever test a nitrous bike in their facility?If not how would they have the technology to be able to make a usb add the needed amount of fuel for nitrous ove ra given period of useage?If it will work why don't they have Nitrous map available???
 
Thanks for the info 203hp's has got to rock. How many strip runs can you do with the size nos bottle you use ??
 
I got a 04 gsxr 1000 here also with a little shot that makes 205hp bone stock internals,pipe,pc3usb and bde gen 3 and a Fast Fi box.....the bikes wll make the power if you set them up....this bike could make tons more power too but I'm not trying to break it,just trying to get the customer a winning bike...
 
I got an '03 Busa with a little juice.

It's has an 80 HP dry shot and makes 253 HP and 151 pounds of torque, on a motor with all stock internals and running a Muzzy pipe.   Like you, I can make a lot more power with it but I don't want to break it.  It's gotta last all year.  

This is actually the same bike from a few posts above that made 203 HP with a small dry shot and is the bike I raced last year.  We'll see how quick it goes this year with an extra jet.   I'm looking for some high eights at over a buck sixty...

All I'm trying to do is smoke your customer.    
tounge.gif


NOS_253.jpg




<!--EDIT|Buzzard
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA,time to go back to the drawing board get bike down another few lbs & add a few more hp...HAHAHAHAHA The season will be a fun one....The best part is the lies that are told after the race is over.
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<!--EDIT|GoldenChild
Reason for Edit: None given...|1141679740 -->
 
oh I didn't know that was how it actually went...I never really paid that much attention...
 
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