New owner need some help please!!!
- Thread starter Kidn1980
- Start date
I’ve seen bikes that have sat for years with half a tank of fuel.... yeah it’s gone stale, but never rusted out the steel components of the fuel tank, pump, etc.
Our fuel here in NZ is benzine based, quite different than the US fuel, ethanol isn’t it?
The problems you guys have with fuel related issues.... sheesh! It’s gotta be crap fuel huh?
Our fuel here in NZ is benzine based, quite different than the US fuel, ethanol isn’t it?
The problems you guys have with fuel related issues.... sheesh! It’s gotta be crap fuel huh?
Gotta be, but with or without ethanol. Water in the fuel (while) sitting for a time. And even though the injectors have now been cleaned, don’t forget all the fuel lines and add a lil SeaFoam once in awhile.
Again thank you for the help.....
Update: I put everything together and decided to take for a spin and the hesitation and bogging down was gone I was able to reach about 60ish. My speedometer isn’t reading right, I unplugged sprayed with carb cleaner and no help. It also started to overheat and that was with me jumping fan to be on fully time. I’ll Remove tstat and test it in pan making sure it opens. I’ll also try to burp it when I put back together.
Update: I put everything together and decided to take for a spin and the hesitation and bogging down was gone I was able to reach about 60ish. My speedometer isn’t reading right, I unplugged sprayed with carb cleaner and no help. It also started to overheat and that was with me jumping fan to be on fully time. I’ll Remove tstat and test it in pan making sure it opens. I’ll also try to burp it when I put back together.
Just a tip . . . only use contact spray, NOT carb cleaner.
You may want to check your speed sensor for damage or dirt, also the little rotor that the sensor is aligned with, be sure that is securely bolted down, it is situated on top of the front sprocket.
Here's the test procedure . . . if all connections are clean and secure, and the rotor and sensor look ok, do this next . .
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Mr Brown
Registered
It should open completely at a specific temp. Idk what that temp is, but I bet @c10 or @Kiwi Rider do...
c10
Registered
Im way off . It should open @ 180 , but the T stat need to be suspended in the water . It can not touch the pan . Its lift should be 8 mm or .031 full open by 203 degrees .
Use a string to suspend the T stat , and heat water slowly .
The cooling fan is what I was thinking of 210 , but the fans come on @ 221 degrees and off at 212
Use a string to suspend the T stat , and heat water slowly .
The cooling fan is what I was thinking of 210 , but the fans come on @ 221 degrees and off at 212
c10
Registered
No that ruins the test touching the pan . Start over please , and full open @ 203 F , but should see it start opening at 180 . 8 mm is 5/16" ( actually 7.938 mm )
Ok just did it and had it suspended and it seems to start opening at 170ish and fully open by 200. I it’s good then what else could cause it to overheat. I didn’t burp it so when I get the fan switch in and reinstall I’ll make sure to burp. So this last time I took it out obviously the tstat is work and then I had the fan jumped so it stayed on whole time but still overheat.
So when burping I leave the radiator cap off? What do you mean rule out water pump?
c10
Registered
Dustin mean making sure the water pump is pumping water . Rule out a possible problem
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