New Owner, New Biker, New Problems

[Bumblebee]

I've had my fair share of projects over the years.....

Once my buddy and I bought a crate Harley....it was a 1949 pan head...we built it, painted it and got it running...our first relatively longer ride (10 miles) was to a bike show and we thought it always looked better to ride it into an event like this....we thought we loctited everything but the tail light fell off and was hanging by the wires it was a chore to pull him over....and of course the nuts were long gone so we used zip ties on the bolts.....

I sold him my share and I believe he never took the zip ties off because I forgot about them and I'm sure he did as well...

Somewhere down the road the new owner would be scratching his head at our zip ties.....

 

[BlueBacon]

Gen 1 Fuel Filter Mod & Pump Replacement | Maintenance and Do-It-Yourself

Using @chrisjp guide and from some nudging by @clean lol I decided to tackle this job. I initially bought just the filter parts but after further inspection I just ordered the pump as well. Pouring out fuel from the filter side was giving mud.......... Spent about 29 bucks for 2 feet of injector...

www.hayabusa.org

Had to do some digging, but I found it! @SSGT_B cleaned his injectors and had great pictures for what he did.

You are on the right track and doing great! I agree with the others: it's likely a fuel issue at this point...Check you air filter/box, clean injectors and maybe the fuel hose, and make sure your plugs are getting power!
As long as none of the safety switches are tripping then I believe you can get it to idle again. Keep us posted!

 

[SSGT_B]

Since you pulled the plugs, be certain the COP wires are back on the correct coils, its very easy to put them back wrong and miss it. Also be sure you have no vaccum leaks. Seems like you are on the right path.

oh yea...........


Got Pie?

 

[Necro1300R]

No pie, unfortunately. Took the fuel injectors out and finally got a definitive answer. 2/4 injectors didn't have their baskets. Naturally, these were the actually working injectors. The other two still had their baskets in it and they were both clogged and weirdly annihilated inside of the injectors. I was pulling leftover fuel (presumably) or other jelly-like substance out of two of them for about half an hour. Suffice it to say, I think this was the source of my fueling issue. I have new injectors on the way already, and I'll probably send these OEM ones out for cleaning/rebuild. I should've taken pictures but I threw all of the excess yummies away before the thought crossed my mind.

When I checked my coils I only pulled them one at a time so I wouldn't mix up the wires. I cross referenced my wires with the wires of the 'Busa in this video to ensure that the previous owner hadn't switched the wires around for the coils. From what I could tell, everything is in the correct spot.

Anyhow, I'll post update and post pictures when the injectors show up and it's running (fingers crossed). Until then, I'll pray whatever I pulled out of the old injectors doesn't come back to get me tonight, or that I get super powers if it does.

All that being said, I haven't messed with anything regarding the thermostat/cooling just yet outside of what was previously mentioned. I've heard tell of a fan switch because of the Gen 1's allegedly high fan kick-on temperature. So I guess my next question is this, when I go to mess with all of that, would it be worth investing in a fan switch setup whilst I'm messing with all of that?

 

[GIXERHP]

You need to mount the ignition switch correctly, for the bike to run. There is a resistor that has to see ground

 

[Bumblebee]

No pie, unfortunately. Took the fuel injectors out and finally got a definitive answer. 2/4 injectors didn't have their baskets. Naturally, these were the actually working injectors. The other two still had their baskets in it and they were both clogged and weirdly annihilated inside of the injectors. I was pulling leftover fuel (presumably) or other jelly-like substance out of two of them for about half an hour. Suffice it to say, I think this was the source of my fueling issue. I have new injectors on the way already, and I'll probably send these OEM ones out for cleaning/rebuild. I should've taken pictures but I threw all of the excess yummies away before the thought crossed my mind.

When I checked my coils I only pulled them one at a time so I wouldn't mix up the wires. I cross referenced my wires with the wires of the 'Busa in this video to ensure that the previous owner hadn't switched the wires around for the coils. From what I could tell, everything is in the correct spot.

Anyhow, I'll post update and post pictures when the injectors show up and it's running (fingers crossed). Until then, I'll pray whatever I pulled out of the old injectors doesn't come back to get me tonight, or that I get super powers if it does.

All that being said, I haven't messed with anything regarding the thermostat/cooling just yet outside of what was previously mentioned. I've heard tell of a fan switch because of the Gen 1's allegedly high fan kick-on temperature. So I guess my next question is this, when I go to mess with all of that, would it be worth investing in a fan switch setup whilst I'm messing with all of that?

Have you pulled and flushed the tank, lines and fuel pump?

If not, that gunk will just go into your injectors again.....

 

[Necro1300R]

Have you pulled and flushed the tank, lines and fuel pump?

If not, that gunk will just go into your injectors again.....

Yes, fuel pump was changed out per the original post and pump/filter assembly was flushed after the filter mod. Changed out old fuel lines alongside the filter mod when placing external filter on. Tank was flushed and filled with evapo-rust for a few days, then re-flushed. I plan on changing the tank altogether before too long anyhow.

 

[Bumblebee]

Yes, fuel pump was changed out per the original post and pump/filter assembly was flushed after the filter mod. Changed out old fuel lines alongside the filter mod when placing external filter on. Tank was flushed and filled with evapo-rust for a few days, then re-flushed. I plan on changing the tank altogether before too long anyhow.

My apologies for not going back and checking before posting......

Just trying to cover all bases to help....

Hopefully the new injectors do the trick....

 

[BigBSBusa]

You need to mount the ignition switch correctly, for the bike to run. There is a resistor that has to see ground

Saw that in the pics also.

 

[Necro1300R]

My apologies for not going back and checking before posting......

Just trying to cover all bases to help....

Hopefully the new injectors do the trick....

All good, I appreciate you helping me cover my bases.

And yes, I have to buy a new triple tree (?) because the mounting point for the ignition was broken in some capacity. AFAIK that 100 ohm resistor sees ground through the wiring because it's soldered in, but I wasn't aware the ignition itself had to be touching metal. Good to know though, thanks guys.

 

[GIXERHP]

All good, I appreciate you helping me cover my bases.

And yes, I have to buy a new triple tree (?) because the mounting point for the ignition was broken in some capacity. AFAIK that 100 ohm resistor sees ground through the wiring because it's soldered in, but I wasn't aware the ignition itself had to be touching metal. Good to know though, thanks guys.

The key in the cylinder makes the connection to ground

 

[mabupa]

All good, I appreciate you helping me cover my bases.

And yes, I have to buy a new triple tree (?) because the mounting point for the ignition was broken in some capacity. AFAIK that 100 ohm resistor sees ground through the wiring because it's soldered in, but I wasn't aware the ignition itself had to be touching metal. Good to know though, thanks guys.

Wonder if gen 2 triple soul work a gen1. I have some parts laying around.

 

[SSGT_B]

Is this what you need?

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Basket case Harley?
Just buy any Harley...wait a little while...and presto...there you have it!

lmao

Hi. No No No. I payed $2,500.00 for my 1999 9 yrs and 37000 miles no oil leaks rebuilt starter $150.00.
OIl changes pluge and 4 rear tires 3 front tires. Great bike. Girls love them.

 

[Necro1300R]

Okay!
I know you all have been waiting with bated breath () so here's a long awaited update.

To answer questions, yes that piece SSGT_B posted is the part I need. The top loop that goes around the ignition is broken off. So that'll have to be replaced.

"What's happened since the last update?"

Glad you asked. Ordered a set of injectors and slapped those in. Didn't crank at first. You'd never guess, but the injectors have to be plugged in to work. Cranked the bike with the injectors plugged in, bike fired and revved up to 9k where it held for a bit because the idle screw was turned all the way in. Satisfied with the fact that it was running, I killed it before anything else could happen. FI light was still on so I still had work to do before I could consider it finished. Put the bike in dealer mode, took a look at the TPS marker and saw that was normal. Good stuff. Cycled through two different codes. C21 and C15 were the only two codes it gave me.

C15: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor || Part#: 13650-10G00
What I didn't know before was that this isn't the sensor that goes on the radiator. AFAIK this is the one that goes on the back of the cylinder head below the first injector. Never would have known it was there if I hadn't looked it up. Glad I did. This will be part of the next step in this project. If anyone has the diagnostic sheet for testing resistances on the sensor and voltage through the wires I'd greatly appreciate that.

C21: Intake Air Temperature Sensor || Part#: 13650-14G10
I imagine this also plays a huge role in why Ye Olde 'Busa is having such a hard time starting. My understanding is that if it can't read temperatures properly, it doesn't know how much fuel is appropriate to add which leads to early flooding of the engine. Please correct me here if my understanding of this is wrong. Regardless, if I want to be rid of the FI light, I'll have to replace this sensor. I tested the wires and they were well within the allotted voltage. Tested the sensor and it was no good.

Got into the back of the bike finally, didn't find anything spectacular except for the most heinous looking spark plug I think I've ever seen and a bunch of rusted and broken wrenches. Incidentally broke the hell out of my tail light lens, though it was going to get replaced regardless.

If anyone knows what the capped plug is near the rectifier, please let me know.

 

[sixpack577]

Okay!
I know you all have been waiting with bated breath () so here's a long awaited update.

To answer questions, yes that piece SSGT_B posted is the part I need. The top loop that goes around the ignition is broken off. So that'll have to be replaced.

"What's happened since the last update?"

Glad you asked. Ordered a set of injectors and slapped those in. Didn't crank at first. You'd never guess, but the injectors have to be plugged in to work. Cranked the bike with the injectors plugged in, bike fired and revved up to 9k where it held for a bit because the idle screw was turned all the way in. Satisfied with the fact that it was running, I killed it before anything else could happen. FI light was still on so I still had work to do before I could consider it finished. Put the bike in dealer mode, took a look at the TPS marker and saw that was normal. Good stuff. Cycled through two different codes. C21 and C15 were the only two codes it gave me.

C15: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor || Part#: 13650-10G00
What I didn't know before was that this isn't the sensor that goes on the radiator. AFAIK this is the one that goes on the back of the cylinder head below the first injector. Never would have known it was there if I hadn't looked it up. Glad I did. This will be part of the next step in this project. If anyone has the diagnostic sheet for testing resistances on the sensor and voltage through the wires I'd greatly appreciate that.

C21: Intake Air Temperature Sensor || Part#: 13650-14G10
I imagine this also plays a huge role in why Ye Olde 'Busa is having such a hard time starting. My understanding is that if it can't read temperatures properly, it doesn't know how much fuel is appropriate to add which leads to early flooding of the engine. Please correct me here if my understanding of this is wrong. Regardless, if I want to be rid of the FI light, I'll have to replace this sensor. I tested the wires and they were well within the allotted voltage. Tested the sensor and it was no good.

Got into the back of the bike finally, didn't find anything spectacular except for the most heinous looking spark plug I think I've ever seen and a bunch of rusted and broken wrenches. Incidentally broke the hell out of my tail light lens, though it was going to get replaced regardless.

If anyone knows what the capped plug is near the rectifier, please let me know.

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Be Extremely careful with those bare pins that you have the bike in dealer mode with.
If that harness slips and those hit the frame, you can cause all kinds of electrical problems, from a burnt fuse...to a burnt ecu.

 

[Necro1300R]

Be Extremely careful with those bare pins that you have the bike in dealer mode with.
If that harness slips and those hit the frame, you can cause all kinds of electrical problems, from a burnt fuse...to a burnt ecu.

Noted, I used a proper wire for dealer mode, however. Those T-pins are what I used to diagnose the intake air temp sensor wires. My leads on the multimeter were too large to fit into the harness slots so I wasn't getting accurate readings. With the pins in the harness, I was finally able to do so.

 

[GIXERHP]

The capped plug is the Yosh plug, nothing you need to worry about

 

[sixpack577]

Noted, I used a proper wire for dealer mode, however. Those T-pins are what I used to diagnose the intake air temp sensor wires. My leads on the multimeter were too large to fit into the harness slots so I wasn't getting accurate readings. With the pins in the harness, I was finally able to do so.

Ah, I zoomed in and see now...not even a white plug, lol, sorry

 

[Necro1300R]

Ah, I zoomed in and see now...not even a white plug, lol, sorry

All good brother man, I'm sure even then I could've caused myself some unwanted problems if I'd let them touch the frame regardless so it's a good word of warning.

I'm not so much worried about trying to correct people as I am making sure that anyone else that might stumble across this thread and use it for reference to their own issues has the most accurate account of things.

Thanks GIXERHP for the info!