New toy

[SLEEPERBUSA]

Rubberside,
If you'll check the times, I wrote this before I wrote the other post.
AGAIN,
I was TRYING to help!

Thats ALL I was trying to do!

I'm not singleing you out, I'm not trying to hump your leg.
You got a complex , Man.
But you already know that, don't ya?

I was TRYING to help you, or anyone else that read it ,to understand better!
THAT'S ALL!
But you didn't ask for MY help, so that was MY mistake, sorry, it won't happen again.

I don't see the humor in spending $600 to get close when you can spend $300(PCII/III) and $250(Custom map) and be spot on.

Thats ALL that I was TRYING to relay here.

I see that you are going to take everything I say like I'm trying to pinpoint you. I'm sorry that you feel that way. That's NOT how I meant it, at all.

However, since you insist on starting shyt with me.

THIS is pinpointed at YOU.............FUKK YOU BYTCH!

Stay the fukk away from me, and I'll gladly do the same for your ignorant azz!

I'm sorry to the other board members that have to read this stuff,
I only come here to read, enjoy, and help anyone I can.
I never professed to know everything about a Busa,
BUT,
I know a WHOLE LOT, and enjoy helping people with their Busas!

 

[Daddy Fatsac]

I don't see the humor in spending $600 to get close when you can spend $300(PCII/III) and $250(Custom map) and be spot on.




THIS is pinpointed at YOU.............FUKK YOU BYTCH!

Ok...I'm the middle man trying to analyze everything that is going on here. Ok...let’s look at this major problem here, which seems to be the price. You get a $600 dollar system that you can get "close" with...or a buy a system $300 then take it to a place to get "spot on" for another $250. Lets say you had some slip-ons when you got that "spot on" and you wanted that full system exhaust...your assed out of $250 for that "spot-on" cuz it really isn't "spot-on" anymore.

I'm going to have to see that the Teka system is a MUCH better in the price category. You all are looking in the initial price. What about the long time pricing? The Teka system can be used on your buddies Suzuki’s and not just your own. I can't take my PC and place it on my buddies 750. But I can take the Teka and reprogram his system.

I will also have to look at the fact that I live in Japan (and for those of you that don't have a dyno/factory dyno system anywhere close to you) and the dyno guy here sucks goat nuttz and we don't have a factory dyno on island at all. So spending $250 on a "remotely close" dyno isn't in the picture for me either.

I own a PC and let me tell you...that thing is a pain in the ass. Take it off...put it on...take it off...put it on...that gets old. With the mods I'm doing to my bike there aren't any general maps to download and make slight differences too.

You know Johnny not everyone has access to dynos bro. I can see why you would want to push dynos because that’s a big money maker for you. If and this item is better people initially think dyno is going to out of a lot of money as well as all those that bought one of their dyno machines. Don't take me wrong I'm just look at this topic from all angles.

$550 vs. $600+shipping

really isn't that much of differences. The questions I want to know are...will I be happy with this product? Is this product a straight rip off (meaning this doesn't do its advertised job and isn't worth $20)? Where do the two products really differ? Does it perform better than a PC without a dyno machine? These are the things I want to know.

I'll be pushing 1507cc here soon. And I need something that’s going to work with the least amount of headaches. So please take your personal feelings out of this keep to the facts. From the looks of things at this point I would have to say Teka has a strong advantage.

Please gang calm down with the cursing of each other. This IS the more mature site. Rubber no need to tell dude he is humping your leg. Sleeper that was alittle extreme for this site. If ya'll wanna hash it out...do it on the other .org site.
So

and make up!
Ok...I'm done talking.

 

[FomerBearGoneBad]

I don't see the humor in spending $600 to get close when you can spend $300(PCII/III) and $250(Custom map) and be spot on.

Um, excuse me, but like a huckster salesman who wants to sell you their snake oil, this guy is leaving one thing out of his evangelisms and attacks:

The Cost of Dyno Sessions

DOH!

 

[Johnnycheese]

Ok lets try it this what maybe some of you can understand in pure simple term

Teka $600.00 inital investment .
Time to make it correct without a tuning aid$$$?

Pc2-3 $200.00-$350.00 inital investment.
Time to make it correct without a tuning aid$$$$?

The point I have been makeing the whole time is either one you need to get right.
A O2 or HC is the only way. seat of the pants is only good for WFO
I see that Serria Flyer thinks that tuning with an O2 sensor means 14:1

It means I can set the fuel to what ever someone would want Power, Fuel economy,NOS,Turbo, etc.etc.

The point about changing stuff later is mute due to most people their minds daily.
You still you have to change the TEKA just like a PC and it takes time. weather you map a PC or adjust a Teka time is money.
I want to know how many hours Sierra Flyer is going to spend total to adjust his??
How much do you make an Hour???
Either way it has to be mapped to be correct.
No YOU DO NOT NEED A DYNO!!!! it just makes it faster to do.
All you really need is an O2 sensor and a throtle postions band on the grip and you yourself can map any bike.
I personaly know 2 people who have,it is just not in 4 hours.
I could care less what you buy , but trust me it is not as easy as Serria Flyer makes it sound remeber he has not done anything except low speeds and watch how slow he goes once the advance is put in

I told you it does not like timing PERIOD

 

[monsterspeedfreak]

I don't see the humor in spending $600 to get close when you can spend $300(PCII/III) and $250(Custom map) and be spot on.

Um, excuse me, but like a huckster salesman who wants to sell you their snake oil, this guy is leaving one thing out of his evangelisms and attacks:

The Cost of Dyno Sessions

DOH!

Bear.......yer avatar is kinda sick dude.
That yer little girl gettin hit in the head er what?

?

 

[Daddy Fatsac]

Monster you'd have to admit dude that is funny as hell!! But back to the topic at hand.

Johnny I'm going to change what you said just a tad...cuz I think your over looking something I said in mine earlier.

We are going to add 5 bikes to the mix.

5 bikes using PCs at $300 a pop = $1500
5 bikes using Teak at $600 a pop = $600

Both of these things tune the bike. Both of them do damn near the samething. Both of them at the end if tuned by someone that has proper tuning equipment can get the same end result. I've come to realize this from this thread. The ONLY difference is one cost more than the other to begin with. But will pay for itsself in the long run.

PCs are far more expensive. Why do I say that? Stock bike with Yoshi cams with slip ons. You buy the PC...then $200 to get dyno'ed by a professional. Now your at $500 bucks. Change to a full system exhaust...now your at $700. Hmm...after awhile you want to big bore. Another $200. So far we are at $900. 90% of the people out there don't do all thier mods at one time.

Also let me see you take the PC out of your bike and use it on someone elses. Two problems with that... 1. That PC won't work with the other guys bike because its not tuned for it. 2. What in the hell are you going to do with out your PC?

This is where Teka comes in and thats why I'm seeing all the benefits with this "New Toy".

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

Hey Daddy,
I'm sure it's a good product.
My whole point is that whichever system that anyone uses, it should be dyno tuned to get spot on.
ALL of the different systems can get ya close and they are all pretty good, or someone would have already said WHY they aren't any good.

NO fuel injection controlling system can say, you have a 1507 so here's the proper map that you need to run.
EVERY bike is different and everybody's atmosphere is different.
That makes everyone's tune different.
Without a proper dyno tuned map, whichever system that you choose should get you real close to where you need to be.

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

I don't see the humor in spending $600 to get close when you can spend $300(PCII/III) and $250(Custom map) and be spot on.

Um, excuse me, but like a huckster salesman who wants to sell you their snake oil, this guy is leaving one thing out of his evangelisms and attacks:

The Cost of Dyno Sessions

DOH!

Bear,
Sorry for the confussion.
The $250 that I spoke of IS for the dyno tuning sessions.
I'm sorry if you think I was preaching, I was trying to HELP with accurate info!

I wasn't attacking, I was told to FUG OFF...............FIRST.
If you look back you will see that.
I have NO snake oil, I have NOTHING to sell.
I have nothing at all to gain from this.

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

For, each mod that you perform,
a change has to be made on the PCII/III, just as it will the TEKA, Yosh Box, OR the Yosh EMS.

I'm not pushing the power commander, I'm thinking of going with the Yosh system or the TEKA.

I just want MY bike RIGHT!

 

[Daddy Fatsac]

For, each mod that you perform,
a change has to be made on the PCII/III, just as it will the TEKA, Yosh Box, OR the Yosh EMS.

I'm not pushing the power commander, I'm thinking of going with the Yosh system or the TEKA.

I just want MY bike RIGHT!

I totally agree with you about each and every system you'll need to update it with new maps. But which ones will be free? Each PC2 update will be $250 if you don't know how to do it yourself...which most of us don't.

 

[Johnnycheese]

We are going to add 5 bikes to the mix.

5 bikes using PCs at $300 a pop = $1500
5 bikes using Teak at $600 a pop = $600

Both of these things tune the bike.  Both of them do damn near the samething.  Both of them at the end if tuned by someone that has proper tuning equipment can get the same end result.  I've come to realize this from this thread.  The ONLY difference is one cost more than the other to begin with.  But will pay for itsself in the long run.  

PCs are far more expensive.  Why do I say that?  Stock bike with Yoshi cams with slip ons.  You buy the PC...then $200 to get dyno'ed by a professional.  Now your at $500 bucks.  Change to a full system exhaust...now your at $700.  Hmm...after awhile you want to big bore.  Another $200.  So far we are at $900.  90% of the people out there don't do all thier mods at one time.  

I see if you have 5 bikes yes you would save money.
But you are incorrect as far as the part of once you upgrade to say slip-ons to 4/1 to cams ETC...
You have to map the PC, you still have to map the TEKA so is still is the same $$$. Most people do not own more than one bike that is the same ie.. I own a Honda and a Suzuki and a Kawi the TEKA would cost more than the PC,
But in your case 5 Suzukis you would be ahead.

And before Serria Flyer comes in and says but you can do your buddies bikes for free.
The only reason I came to this site was he thought I was out of line asking for a freebie

So Seirra Flyer I can send you people and you will tune the spot on for free correct???

 

[FomerBearGoneBad]

Bear.......yer avatar is kinda sick dude.
That yer little girl gettin hit in the head er what?

?

Look REALLY close at it and you'll see the symbol for E! (a cable/satellite TV station). This one gets people's attention because most chuckle at first glance, but then feel suprised and shocked at themselves for having laughed at a baby girl getting knocked down...exactly the point.

Things that evoke unusual reaction emotion are collectable. I copied this off some other discussion board a while back.

 

[SierraFlyer]

Sure send them my way. I wouldn't mind doing it for free.

You asked in an earlier post how much time I have spent so far for mapping? 20 minutes so far and most of that was pulling the rear cowl to find the connector on the harness. This thing is really fast and easy to use. Now that I have the connector in an accessable area, I can plug the cable into it in 15-20 seconds. The longest part is to wait for the engine to warm up. At Idle, I was able to zero out the settings in another 60 seconds. Then I put in an increase using the key pad and hit enter. As each cylinder updated its setting, the RPM changed (increased). I repeated this until the idle peaked and started to decline. Then I backed up until I had max RPM. This whole process took me 5 minutes and would have been faster if I already knew how to use it and didn't push the wrong keys. It should have taken 3 minutes to set idle mixture if I knew what I was doing. Off-idle was easier and took 3 minutes. There you run 9000 RPM in neutral and crack the throttle looking for best throttle response. But I didn't have time to go for a ride and tweak the upper throttle settings (25%-100%) since it was getting dark. So that is where I stopped and unplugged and put the bike away.

When I do the upper throttle it will be as easy as plugging in the TEKA and warming up the bike. Then I will go for a ride with the control box in my jacket pocket or taped/velcrowed to the tank in from of me. I will set the TEKA for the 25% range and move the setting around while riding until I get best pull @ 5000 RPM. That should take a little longer than idle because I am having to accellerate the bike in 1st to 5000 and hit it, then slow down and change settings - repeat until it is performing best. I would be actually setting 5th gear map since I run a TRE. Then change ranges and RPMs, and repeat until all ranges have been updated. I figure the first time will be an hour or so because I will be playing with it and learning how it works , maybe half that time if I had done it before. That is why I said a TEKA owner could optimize the bike every day if they wanted. You could do it on the way to work! If someone was using this thing at the track it would take much less time since they wouldn't need to watch for other cars/peds. They just hit it and back off, push the setting arrow - hit it again until it felt better then push the range arrow up into the next range and repeat. Set a particular range for how hard the bike exits a certain turn at this new track? Optimise it for that turn if it will win races. A couple of laps should do it since the bike would be close to begin with. They could test it at race speed. Then push "enter" to lock in the entire range of settings and remove the TEKA box and leave it in the pits. You never have to pull the PC to program it or buy a laptop to take the maps to the PC on the bike. It makes changes in real time - even while riding. There is no "down time". There are no hours spent at a computer trying to write the "perfect" code for a PC map that would be less than perfect as soon as the temperature or pressure or even fuel quality/octane changed. The ECU won't lose the settings if you disconnect the battery. They won't change until you reset them on purpose.

You are right, the TEKA doesn't touch the timing curves. It has nothing to do with timing at all, only fuel squirt. I have an offset woodruff key to advance the stator 4 degrees and plan to install it as soon as my gaskets come in. That advances the whole curve 4 degrees but retains the stock shape of the advance curve. It is another Factory product. It is cheap $50 including the stator wheel puller for Suzuki. It is a compromise of course, as the perfect advance may be slightly more or less for an individual bike at an individual RPM. 4 degrees may not be enough or too much, if you are running higher compression pistons or milled heads or bigger displacement, etc. But I am sure it will be very close to optimum for max power on a basically stock bike. Close enough to win races anyway. And it costs $50 if you install it yourself. Maybe an hour for labor if you don't. Then it is done and need not be messed with. And it won't disappear if the map is lost from the PC.

For all these reasons above, I feel this is a superior tool for the weekend warrior who doesn't have a dedicated staff of mechanics to poke and prod and tweak his bike on a dyno. The guy who doesn't have unlimited budget or time but plans to wrench on his own bike and modify it. My goal is not only to wring out every single HP, but give it smoother HP and maybe more range on a tank of gas. If I want HP I will install nitrous and get boat loads of power cheap regardless of tuning. So far I have extended my max range from 162 to 207 miles (w/o reserves) simply by bumping up my part throttle mixture. EXCELLENT! It is running harder too.

The only way this debate will be settled is for someone to here to buy a TEKA, use it and give their opinion of it.

 

[Johnnycheese]

Quote Sierra Flyer"If someone was using this thing at the track it would take much less time since they wouldn't need to watch for other cars/peds."

Nice I guess a dyno is safer after, all how much is a track licence and track time where your at??
And I am sure that every rider wants to tune while in traffic real safe

As for timing let me say this again and Seirra Flyer listen this time I know you think I don't know crap.
NO TIMING NEEDED on a stock or built bike it want less but go ahead a your timing plus the TRE timing and go start buying Super Unleaded and make less ponies.
But knowing how you are you already running super.

Quote Seirra Flyer "The only way this debate will be settled is for someone to here to buy a TEKA, use it and give their opinion of it."
I have waited for 1 year now you are only the 2nd person to admit to having one.
1st one the numbers were not too impressive had a Factory dyno shop map it.
I even put this offer on the table.
total up you time complete with fuel, labor, and product (include this advance)
then bring it here I will be more than happy to dyno it as well as put it through the Dyno track program.
then you take your settings out I instal a PC map it asd see the difference.
Nice offer here on the table due to you think it is so neat and easy I will even post results graphs of what ever the out come. What do you say.
PS if it takes you about 1 or so hours on the street and you get hit doing somebodys bike you going to pay???

 

[FomerBearGoneBad]

Johnny, it really just burns your arse that this guy prefers his unit over going to a dyno, doesn't it? Other posts have been marginal on both sides, but this last one of yours is just a blatant attack/rebuttal to Sierra with nothing positive to offer of your own. Please, cease embarrasing yourself. Let it go. Agree to disagree. He who gets the last word in often does so only because everyone else has gotten fed up and left him alone in solitude...

 

[SierraFlyer]

Johnny you are such an angry boy!

I don't doubt that you can tune a bike with a PC. And a dyno is easier if you can't take the computer with you like a PC requires. You know it just occurred to me that you preffer Dynojet for your jetting needs and the Dynojet Power Commander for your fuel injection tuning needs. Are you a DJ authorized vendor or are an employee of theirs? I started this thread because I found a product that has a great set of features. Unfortunately it will put you out of business if every Joe out here can dial in tuning themselves. Wow, what a concept! We don't need you anymore!! Without an unbiased 3rd person to do a side-by-side comparison we are just pissing in the wind.

I tried in the last post to explain exactly how I did , what I did to all interested people on the board. You haven't even tried to explain what it is that you do. You just attack me and Factory. You are gutless. How can someone support you if you can't explain yourself. That reminds me, use your spell checker because you sound illiterate. I have trouble figuring out exactly what you are trying to say. And your empty offer for me to ride out to TEXAS for a tune up is stupid. I am glad for this device as it will cut into your miserable little life.

For those that do care, sorry for the hassle.

 

[Johnnycheese]

I don't care who it is. This offer goes for anyone PERIOD.

No, I do not use spell check I guess I could but why it make little people like you get mad HAHAHAHA.

I would like to know how well this TEKA works I could make some serious cash. Why else do you think I would even offer this

But it seems like you and one other person that owns a Busa has used the TEKA and post on boards.
Sure I flamed Factory no customer support you even said that.
I see that I was correct in one other thing ....
I was told about this board long time ago read it and told several board members I did not want to join.
I am sorry I did.
I only did to respond to SERRIA FYLERS comment of me. He as alot of members on this board think I am bais and one sided about dynos.
Ask board memebers here who have used a dyno.
Ask them about before and after.
Many I have done.
I also know that there are other boards and some of you on this board actualy go to them and know what I speak is the truth.
I am not bais, I am just not living in the Dark Ages

I will do this if anyone wants to take me up on the offer.
I am a man of my word.
Nuf said later.

 

[FomerBearGoneBad]

Arrogance wrapped in mock civility...

Paraphrase:

"I'm not attacking you and saying you're stupid and wrong. I'm just saying that if you disagree with me and my beliefs, you must be imcompetent and ignorant."

Discussion board etiquette suggestion:

Learn to say "I'm sure that works well for you, but here's what I've found that works for me..."

Attacking someone else in the process of posting your own approach comes across as one thing: putting yourself in a self-assumed position of authority and correctness and passing judgement onto others who disagree. Your solution does not necessarily apply to everyone else, and vice versa.

The whole problem's root was a pissing match that presumed that there was only one right way. That's arrogance. Period.

 

[Daddy Fatsac]

Mr Cheese...can you answer a couple questions for me. Have you personally used the Teka before? Have you seen a
Factory dyno'ed Teka? If so can you post the differences?

Different series of questions...Will this Teka system be enough for the average joe to get is bike running correctly? Will it be enough for a 1507cc Busa that can't find a damn PC map remotely close to what I have?

Please answer those for me. Thanks in advance.

Also get back to why we started this post. Damn the pissing match!

 

[SierraFlyer]

NEW STUFF TO TALK ABOUT........

I finally got around to installing the timing advance key. It is an offset Woodruff key on the end of the crank that the Stator flywheel slips over. The crank pickup uses the magnets in the stator wheel to trigger the ignition pulse. This key rotates the wheel a tiny bit forward on the shaft resulting in a 4 degree advance.

Results are sulbtle but noticable. The throttle response is cleaner and quicker. More HP? Can't tell so far. I haven't had a chance to take it out and warm it up. But it sounds better for what that is worth.

Those of you going to Laguna Seca will see/hear it. I may bring the TEKA to Laguna Seca too if anyone is curious about it.

I will run the TEKA tomorrow at the higher RPM ranges to fine tune it then I'll post the results I get.