No start.. I bet this one's a first, though

[Berlin Germany]

Ever heard of a gen 1 with this issue?

man?

i spend one long entire page for that damn clutch issue (at damn ALL busa) at my homepage.
and i´ve shown some pics of your issue here already. (see post #3)

now you my poor buddy have the worst job ever caused by the huge amount of at your pics visible metal splinters.

figuratively - you grabbed deeply, till up to your shoulders, into the s h i t.
(how we here name this kind of job)

i strongly suppose some of them went into oil pan, clogged a bit the oil pump´s filter and in worst case they went into the rest of your crank/trans.

so - to avoid 99% stucked small oil ducts inside motor you have to put the motor into pieces and clean all
to avoid small oil ducts inside motor become clogged by these metal splinters (one springs seems to be cracked too) you have to put the entire engine into its pieces.
hopefully you get really all splinters out - a residual risk will stay what ever you try.
even a high pressure washing machine i guess won´t help totally - what i wrote - you have to live with a residual risk

oil ducts:
at very 1st
a. crankshaft bearings
b. camshaft plain bearings (no inserts like at the crank)
and some others i suppose who i do not remember at the moment - sorry

before you turn only one screw/nut get the manual for your busa plus best tools you can get.

and if you´re thinking about to give the busa to a workshop, this job will most likely be far far beyond your budget / the wallet is likely to explode because of the expected costs
i would say some 30-40 hours will be necessary for a top mechanic who knows every screw/nut of the busa - figuratively by their 1st and family name - with tons of experiance to do this job perfectly.

good luck whatever you choose to do

at ALL

the same fu ck i ng damn issue you can have with both gen´s and the b-king
they all have the same clutch-system!

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Mythos

maaaaaaaaaaan - what good drawings - thanks a lot.

and
the issue is not the length of the final short 6mm screw - #8 - that keeps the spring tight.
the issue is the stud - #6 -, which is not locked by thread lock (loctited) into the thread of the - #5 - at the factory in japan and that in 100% contrast to the manual where this is described separately.

following the microfiche of a gen1 clutch system from ´02/´03
the entire system is similar to gen2 and b-king !
means - same damn fu c k ing issue at all busa-engines where ever they are in use.

 

[Mythos]

the issue is not the length of the final short 6mm screw - #8 - that keeps the spring tight.
the issue is the stud - #6 -, which is not locked by thread lock (loctited) into the thread of the - #5

Ah--I see, the Hayabusa has studs that thread into the hub and the clutch spring bolts thread into boltholes in the studs! That's sort of a double whammy! Kind of redundant, wouldn't you say? A bolt that threads into a bolt? ...and the secondary bolt even has threads that are extremely short while the bolt that threads into it has threads that are fairly long! I'm sure Suzuki has some good reason for doing this but it's not immediately clear to me what that reason might be. Perhaps studs of different length could be used to increase or decrease spring pressure as shimming the springs does? Maybe the the studs are meant to be replaced if their female threads wear out from over-torquing/frequent removal of the pressure plate? IDK Frank, I think I like Kawasaki's hub design better. The studs (I referred to them as "posts") are molded into the hub. They can't come out. If they wear out, you replace the hub.

Thank you for the compliment on my diagrams, Frank. These were used in a tutorial about clutch pack removal on the Gen1 ZX-14 and there is an explanation of how a motorcycle clutch works too. You are welcome to copy these or any of my other pics or text if you like. There is also a picture of the "posts" the ZX-14 clutch springs thread into on step 6.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=196E8D8B-1B78-59F6-02E2E04BAE8D0B59

So if this guy had a stud come loose, what happened to the bolt that was threaded into that stud? I sincerely hope that is laying on the botttom of the oil pan....probably broken in a few pieces.

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Mythos

bros?

see this post from 2009 and the suzuki bulletin which was sent only to the dealers.

and

i personally was present, when my brother and some friends found NOT - "Loctited" studs 5 1/2 years ago at a 2 month old brandnew 2014 hayabusa.

so i strongly as possible ever recommend to check the clutch studs at what ever fabrication year a busa is and where ever it is delivered to.
even the 2018-20 won´t have loctited studs i suppose.

AT ALL here!
the heck - how often shall i repeat it again?
no matter what age / milage the busa has!
check ALL clutch studs from 1999 - 2020
at all busa and b-king - my very strongest and hardest recommendation i can give!

the whole job would need around 1.5 h with costs only for a small bottle of super strong "glue" !

if the clutch (its studs) make knocking noises all is over and you will find situations and damages like at the busa from @tnarmyng here following by extremely high costs for repair !

don´t be lazy but do the little job a.s.a.p. / best "today"
without starting once again the motor before - the next seconds more can ! occur that damages.

 

[Mythos]

Mine is an 08 and I believe I was sent at least one recall bulletin.

I still get bulletins for the rectifier. I'll be doing that myself before summer.

 

[tnarmyng]

Most recent headache caused by the clutch issue above..