FlatlandBusa
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I think he means the removable valve core.
NoMar Tire Changer worth it?
- Thread starter RedBusarider
- Start date
I think he means the removable valve core.
bingo
RedBusarider
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Yes I already have some 90 degree valve stems. Because I will be installing them after the tires are removed,
I shouldn't have to do anything with the "needles" this time around. I guess I try it with no loctite and hope for the best.
lease:But thanks for all your advice. I'm really thinking about mounting the No-Mar on a sheet of wood to start out.
I can always drill holes and mount it later, but this way I'll be able to see just how much room I need to move around it comfortably.
Time will tell.
That's how I mounted mine, on a 4x4 piece of thick plywood. I put the changer in one corner (like home plate on a baseball diamond) (because you will need to step on the plywood to get leverage or you'll just be twisting it around on the floor a lot), with a few 2x6's around the perimter to prevent bowing and for a foothold....need to take a pic I guess.
I think its a good skill to have. There is definately a learning curve. Some tires are easy peasy, some are very tough to mount. The easy ones can be spun on with a good quality teflon tip bar. the tough ones you need good quality teflon tire irons again like the long momar irons. 180s on my GSXR slid right on with a bar, 190 concours rears take every bit of strength I have and rim protectors and large tire iron. 200's on my bking are right I the middle but I usually use tire irons on the rear. Hd softail tires go right on. Watch out for bias ply trailer tires they seem to have very stiff side walls.
I have an inexpensive chinese tire changer that holds the wheel plenty tight and is mounted on 4x4 plywood. I think buy the Mo Par tools and buy the cheap tire holder. However, make sure the model you buy has rubber covers on the wheel clamps or you can fabricate something. Most of the cheaper model do not have rubber boots and will scratch your wheels - the rubber also helps keep the wheel from spinning while mounting.
I don't think you'd be disappointed with the NoMar - in fact I think it is a quality build; however, I think it will only make it nominally easy to mount tires.
I have an inexpensive chinese tire changer that holds the wheel plenty tight and is mounted on 4x4 plywood. I think buy the Mo Par tools and buy the cheap tire holder. However, make sure the model you buy has rubber covers on the wheel clamps or you can fabricate something. Most of the cheaper model do not have rubber boots and will scratch your wheels - the rubber also helps keep the wheel from spinning while mounting.
I don't think you'd be disappointed with the NoMar - in fact I think it is a quality build; however, I think it will only make it nominally easy to mount tires.
RedBusarider
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Sure. A picture is worth a thousand words (most of the time)
Thanks skydivr for all your input. I didn't think about adding 2x6's but that might work. Did you lay them flat along the edges?
And when you say thick plywood are you talking about ¾" ? Did you use ½ x 1½" carriage bolts coming up from the underside?
According to Fed Ex it should arrive today. But I will take my time setting it up, as I'm in no hurry - They are forecasting snow next week
Weirdest winter I can remember.Oh wait it's suppose to be Spring, right? Can SOMEONE tell mother nature she must not have gotten the memo.
RedBusarider
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If I were to conclude that it was only a little easier to remove and mount tires with a No-Mar then I would probably sell it.
However - My hope is that it will be a lot easier to do and that the only thing that might be better would be a power unit.
I don't have the room or money or need for one of those as my overall usage of tires will be relatively low by most peoples standards.
Time will tell.
Sure. A picture is worth a thousand words (most of the time)
Thanks skydivr for all your input. I didn't think about adding 2x6's but that might work. Did you lay them flat along the edges?
And when you say thick plywood are you talking about ¾" ? Did you use ½ x 1½" carriage bolts coming up from the underside?
According to Fed Ex it should arrive today. But I will take my time setting it up, as I'm in no hurry - They are forecasting snow next week
Oh wait it's suppose to be Spring, right? Can SOMEONE tell mother nature she must not have gotten the memo.
I'll see if I can get you a pic. yes, 3/4 plywood and big carriage bolts. I actually think I took a 4x8, cut in half, stacked and screwed THOSE together to get a 1.5 thick base. 2/6 flat around edges, but more importantly, 2x6 blocks UNDERNEATH the actual mounting bracket (which made the thickness nearly 3.5 inches thick where the base actually bolts on at). You are putting a lot of torque on a small space...
Jeez, forgot to take pics sorry! I've got some race tires to change out next week so I'll get one then.
Note: Last week I put new rubber on my Busa (in prep for Eureka springs) The Q2 rear (a 55) has been in my garage tire stack for about a year....I fought the living CRAP out of it to get it on my wheel....older tires do no flex as good as newer ones!!
Note: Last week I put new rubber on my Busa (in prep for Eureka springs) The Q2 rear (a 55) has been in my garage tire stack for about a year....I fought the living CRAP out of it to get it on my wheel....older tires do no flex as good as newer ones!!
PIC: Better late than never. I mounted mine in the corner so I could get my feet on the pad when I needed the leverage. And when it's a 55 rear tire, boy do I need it!
Note: That's a 4x8 sheet cut in two and screwed together, with 2x6's on those edges.
Note: That's a 4x8 sheet cut in two and screwed together, with 2x6's on those edges.
There is definitely a technique; watch the video!
Also, do the front tire first as it's easy and it will help you get an idea of the process before you tackle the rear
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