Oil and Filter.

OK, the Corvette,all the Porches,Vipers,Trans Ams, and Z28s come with Mobil 1 in them when they are new. Not to mention a whole bunch of other exotic vehicles also. Why should I wait until its broke in to use synthetics when these manufactures dont. A better lubricant should be better for the bearings and camshaft lobes during break-in as well as after. There is a good article in this months Motorcyclist by one of the motorcycle oil engineers. He says the worst synthetic stock is better than the best petrolium stock as a starting place to build a lubricant. I think he was from Maxxim or Bel Ray.
 
Hello all on this 4th of July. I'm ready to do my first oil and filter change. What brand and type are you using. Cost? I still can't wipe the silly grin off of my face everytime I ride this beast! Thanks.
 
Suzuki filter and suzuki oil premium 10-40. Get the Suzuki OEM filter wrench and save yourself a lot of trouble.

[This message has been edited by grandvitesse (edited 03 July 2000).]
 
You may want to invest in the Suzuki (or equivalent) cap-type oil filter wrench if you haven't already. It'll make things much easier and eliminate the risk of damaging the new filter. My dealer had the wrench in stock, and it was only about $5 (USD) as I recall.

Like JC says, use "regular" oil, not synthetic, at least until you've logged a couple of thousand miles or so.
 
Thanks for the info Johnnycheese. I'll check that pivot today. BTW the block off plates fit great, and it didn't take long to install.
 
OK, you never can read too much about oil filters either... or can you? Here's a site by a guy with way too much free time. But after reading this, I'm not as sure about Fram filters as I used to be!

http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html

Regarding the synthetics debate, I have to believe a wet clutch is a factor separating motorcycles from cars... these newer, SJ rated oils are so slippery in the pursuit of good gas mileage, they can lead to clutch slippage. I'm using SG rated Belray in my 'Busa, is there something better out there?
 
Happybus,there is a question and answer on the mobil 1 sight I listed above about clutch slippage. The Mobil 1 MX4T does not contain anything that would make your clutch slip. It is, in my opinion and a very high percentage of profesional engine builders the finest lubricant on the market. I have used the 15-50 Mobil 1 "car oil" in at least 20 new street bikes with total success and never had any foaming or coaking, including at the race track. [ road racing in high heat is abslolutly MURDER on oils] Anyway the MX4T is formulated specifically for bad *** motorcycles like the busa,R1,CBR ect.... Try it with confidence that there is no finer oil for your bike. ALWAYS use Suzuki oil filters. They are made under strict quality control standerds. They are the best for your Suzuki. Happy 4th of July!
 
SJBUSA, try Mobil 1,you will think you put in a different transmission. I havent got a reply why I shouldnt use synthetics during break-in yet, you may want to wait till johnnycheese answers. I have an oil test in front of me. The oils tested were Mobil 1 15-50,Castrol Syntec,Castrol GTX, Honda HP4,and Spectro 4. The test bike was an 84 Honda V65 Sabre, oils sampled at 0,800,1500 miles and the Mobil 1 tested at 2500 miles because its VI drop was markedly less than the other oils.[VI is viscosity index] Test was over the course of 10,000 miles over 1 year, 70% city,30% freeway riding. Here are the results.

Relative Viscosity Retention

------- 0 mi--- 800 mi--- 1500--- mi 2500 mi


Mobil 1 100% 86.6% 83% 79.1 %

Castrol
Syntec 100% 78.1% 74.5% not tested

Castrol
GTX 100% 72.2% 68.0% " "

Honda
HP4 100% 69.2% 65.6% " "

Spectro
4 100% 68.0% 63.9% " "

---------------------------------------------


As you can see Mobil 1 15-50 [and this is the car oil, the motorcycle MX4T has a very expensive additive package specificly for high performance and racing motorcycles] is better at 2500 miles than any of the others are at 800 miles. The others get much worse as the milage goes up. At 1500 miles the others are at about half there VI Index. With modern machining techniques the rings in your busa are seated almost immediatly. More important are camshaft lobes,then bearings for break in. If someone has a good reason why not to run synthetics during break-in I will surely listen. I promise this, if you try Mobil 1 on your next oil change you wont believe how much better your bike shifts. Like a knife through hot butter!

[This message has been edited by WARBIRD (edited 04 July 2000).]

[This message has been edited by WARBIRD (edited 04 July 2000).]

[This message has been edited by WARBIRD (edited 04 July 2000).]
 
Been running Mobile 1 MX4T 10W-40. Because no one carried it near me, I had to go directly to the Mobile one web site. Cost was $10.41/quart with shipping.

Does it make any differance? It feels like it does shift better and given the stats above, the piece of mind knowing its good stuff is worth paying the differance.

The first breakin service, and last service, the dealer will do for me, charged a whopping $14.29 for the filter. Bought one from another dealer for $8.95.

Happy 4th!
 
The shifting could be that the shifter pivot is not greased from the factory.
Pull the shifter and grease it and the adjust it for your foot.
And yes some dealers really mark the filters up I don't know why.
Too_Quick will get you the real deal.
Most people order 3 at a time.

[This message has been edited by Johnnycheese (edited 04 July 2000).]
 
Warbird, thanks for the Mobil 1 info... your extensive experience with it is just the kind of real-world testimonial I was looking for!

Sorry, I didn't mean I would use a Fram filter on my Hayabusa... I mail-ordered Suzuki filters and a shop manual the day I brought this baby home!

The guy with the oil filter web site cuts open filters of many different brands, measures filter area, rates the quality of the check valve, etc. Very interesting; a more expensive filter is not always a better filter. I have always used Fram in my truck and cars; his data was a real eye opener for me.

But for the Happybus, its OEM all the way!
 
Just completed my 1st oil change today @ 700 miles. I could have saved an hour if I had the proper oil filter wrench. I went to a small shop since my dealer was closed for the holiday. FRAM oil filter# PH6018 & HONDA gn4 10w-40. I'm using this oil to make sure the rings seat. After pouring in 3.5 qts I let the bike idle for a few minutes, checked for leaks, then checked the window. Two items concern me: while preparing for a short ride I let the bike warm up,a little smoke was coming from the left exhaust - I gave it a quick rev and a little more came out then it stopped. Maybe it's my paronia but it seems like the bike doesn't shift as smoothly as before. I'll put some more miles on it Tues. but it seems a little notchy now. How long should I leave the convential Honda 10w40 in the bike? Otherwise I have this big stupid grin on my face everyday I go to my garage. This bike is addictive - I don't want to work, my GF hates it, and it has my complete attention.
 
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