Oil preferences
- Thread starter ArmyBusa08
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ArmyBusa08
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I'm always heard good things about Royal Purple when it comes to cars... any word on bikes?
dallaskawboyz
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Go with the 10W40 Amsoil(syn), it's about $9.00 a quart, but you get what you pay for.
Oilfieldtrash
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Mobil 1 4T here.
Camano Rider
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Rotella 15w-40 regular not the synthetic one.
endlessperformance
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I run only Amsoil in all of my bikes.
Cassius
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I used Valvoline 10W40 motorcycle oil, a dino oil for the first oil change. It is more out of convenience than preference. It has all the ratings required per the Suzuki manual. The cost is $4.50 per qt.
I have been using dino HD oil 20W50 in the Buell for 4 years. It is air cooled, and stresses the oil more than the Busa does I think, and it works fine. I just change it every 1,000 to 1,500 miles. I plan to do the same with the Busa.
I have been using dino HD oil 20W50 in the Buell for 4 years. It is air cooled, and stresses the oil more than the Busa does I think, and it works fine. I just change it every 1,000 to 1,500 miles. I plan to do the same with the Busa.
freponyryd
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I have always used synthetic car oil with lucas oil stabilizer 60,000 + miles and never a problem. I never saw the point in paying extra for the "motorcycle" stamp on the bottle, but I might change if someone can provide substantial evidence that one is beter than the other.
Cassius
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Car oils ares supposed to have friction modifiers in them. So for bikes that use engine oil in the gear box and have wet clutch, it is not supposed to be good for the clutch
I have been using Mobil 1 15W50 car oil in both my KLR and my XT, for years. I never had any problems, so go figure. The Kawasaki manual does not state that car oils should be avoided but the Yamaha manual does.
Frankly I don't know anymore. I am switching to the Valvoline bike oil at the next change anyway. It is half the price of the Mobil 1, and it is the only motorcycle oil available in my neighborhood, except for the Lucas synthetic which is also twice as expensive.
I have been using Mobil 1 15W50 car oil in both my KLR and my XT, for years. I never had any problems, so go figure. The Kawasaki manual does not state that car oils should be avoided but the Yamaha manual does.
Frankly I don't know anymore. I am switching to the Valvoline bike oil at the next change anyway. It is half the price of the Mobil 1, and it is the only motorcycle oil available in my neighborhood, except for the Lucas synthetic which is also twice as expensive.
DevilDawg1
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Look at the back side (label) of all the different oils.
You should see the API "Donut".
Inside this circle, on the bottom half, you will see the words "energy conserving". If you see these words the oil is loaded with friction modifiers.
Some of the 10W-40 will say this and some will not.
If you go down to 10W-30, 5W-30, 5W-20, all of these weights will have these words.
All the name brand oils are now SM rated.
You can still find some of the SL rated oils, some of these will be and some will not be "energy conserving".
It has always been my recommendation to stay away from the "energy conserving" oils. Not that these oils would or would not hurt the clutch plates, but anything that can make a clutch plate more slick than regular motor oil cannot be good for the clutch plates.
This is more a precaution on my behalf than anything substantiated.
However, read the descriptions of what is considered to be heavy duty use of an engine. Then ask yourself does your bike fit these descriptions, and then read about the uses of the 15W-40 HDEO oils. See how many matches you get.
This is just a 1/2 cents worth.
You should see the API "Donut".
Inside this circle, on the bottom half, you will see the words "energy conserving". If you see these words the oil is loaded with friction modifiers.
Some of the 10W-40 will say this and some will not.
If you go down to 10W-30, 5W-30, 5W-20, all of these weights will have these words.
All the name brand oils are now SM rated.
You can still find some of the SL rated oils, some of these will be and some will not be "energy conserving".
It has always been my recommendation to stay away from the "energy conserving" oils. Not that these oils would or would not hurt the clutch plates, but anything that can make a clutch plate more slick than regular motor oil cannot be good for the clutch plates.
This is more a precaution on my behalf than anything substantiated.
However, read the descriptions of what is considered to be heavy duty use of an engine. Then ask yourself does your bike fit these descriptions, and then read about the uses of the 15W-40 HDEO oils. See how many matches you get.
This is just a 1/2 cents worth.
mrnyc01
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Is that car oil? Does it matter????
Mythos
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I just switched to full synthetic on my 14. I went with Repsol Moto 4T racing oil 10W-40. It was ~$70 for 5 liters and an OEM filter but the change in the bike was worth it. Transmission is as slick as a new bike should be. The engine sounded like it was running softer (less mechanical noise) as soon as the synthetic oil circulated.
Next time I am going to try a Mobil 1 4T because I hear it is as good and a lot cheaper.
See if you can get a recomendation on a non 'zuki filter and you will be a few more dollars ahead.
If the bike has been sitting a long time and the oil has turned to crap, I wouldn't put anything too expensive in there just yet. I had sludge in my oil from winter storage and even though I drained it thoroughly, I might change my $70 oil after a couple thousand miles. I want to be sure I don't run too long with any residual gunk in there. Would have been better to run some dino oil for a short time first then go with the good stuff.
Mythos
Next time I am going to try a Mobil 1 4T because I hear it is as good and a lot cheaper.
See if you can get a recomendation on a non 'zuki filter and you will be a few more dollars ahead.
If the bike has been sitting a long time and the oil has turned to crap, I wouldn't put anything too expensive in there just yet. I had sludge in my oil from winter storage and even though I drained it thoroughly, I might change my $70 oil after a couple thousand miles. I want to be sure I don't run too long with any residual gunk in there. Would have been better to run some dino oil for a short time first then go with the good stuff.
Mythos
wat1000
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Back in the day I used to ride a TL1000R, I was told Amsoil was the best for V-twin, but I was also told that Amsoil was lacking the required detergents for the clucthes and higher reving in line 4. Now that I'm on a 08 Busa I'm running the factory oil from Suzuki. They recommended I stay with it until around 4K miles. Next oil change I'll be over 4K so I was thinking about going to Mobil 1 or Motul. Everyone here in Augusta (running hard) lives by that Motul.
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