One Thread - Multiple Issues (front Brakes/idle/spark Plugs)

[sixpack577]

Most likely the valves are all in spec.
If not, you will need new shims.
What size shims, you won't know until you check.
Sometimes you get lucky and can swap from one valve to another.
But again, they are probably all in spec.
If any are out, it's likely very little, and you'll never notice a difference once they are changed(even though Ide change them anyway).

 

[Shaun Ketterman]

Most likely the valves are all in spec.
If not, you will need new shims.
What size shims, you won't know until you check.
Sometimes you get lucky and can swap from one valve to another.
But again, they are probably all in spec.
If any are out, it's likely very little, and you'll never notice a difference once they are changed(even though Ide change them anyway).

It's almost for peace of mind at this point. This bike was not taken care of prior to me buying it. I don't know if running the hell out of a bike facilitates valves going on of spec, but regardless, I'd like to at least have them checked to be sure. Most of the shops I've called so far have all told me that these types of valves (with shims) tend to stay in spec for a while, but with the neglect I see on this bike, you never know.


Another topic: For the TPS sensor - Figured I might as well check this just in case. Put the bike in dealer mode via paperclip (thankfully I'm not throwing any codes, so that’s a plus.)


I understand there is a tack ( - ) beside the C00 and it has 3 positions, high, center, and low.


With the bike off, the tack is low.


With the bike on, and no throttle applied, it's in the center.


While riding and applying throttle, it's high.


Is this proper function?

 

[Shaun Ketterman]

Couple of updates:


1. Bike hesitates in upper RPM range. I got on it entering the freeway this morning, and noticed that, in 1st gear, upper RPMs (7,000+) the bike will hesitate, like I've let off the throttle really quick and then re-applied it. I tested it again on the way home for lunch, but couldn't get it to replicate exactly the same. However, 1st gear at 8000 RPM it hesitated badly. I accelerated slowly in 1st to try and gauge where it would hesitate, and right at 8 grand it did. Wouldn't do it every time though.

2. When I rev the engine, either in neutral or with the clutch lever pulled in, the RPM's drop relatively quickly until about 1500 - 2000 RPMs. It kinda 'hangs' there, until eventually, and SLOWLY, returning to idle speed. On occasion, the engine will not even return to idle speed (set ~1300 RPM). It will just stick between 1500 - 2000 (this is on a running-temp engine, not a cold one). I've watched plenty of youtube videos where dudes rev up the Busa, and the RPMs drop instantly back down to idle speed, so something is definitely wrong here.

3. I performed the throttle body sync I mentioned in an earlier post, and now I get a LOT of backfiring when engine speed decreases, sometimes even between shifts. LOUD pops too. I have a DanMoto JISU exhaust.

4. Also, still wondering if my TPS is performing properly per the description in my last post?


Huge thanks for all the support so far!


Shaun

 

[sixpack577]

The popping on deceleration could be from the PAIR valve. Make sure the hoses are connected properly.
That something could've been accidentally loosened or disconnected while doing the TB snyc/lifting tank.
The popping is air entering the exhaust.

 

[sixpack577]

Have you ruled out a bad fuel pump and/or filter?

 

[Shaun Ketterman]

Have you ruled out a bad fuel pump and/or filter?

Not at all, in fact, those are what I am leaning toward. I'm guessing there isn't any real way to troubleshoot them? Brand new, those are some pricey parts. Does a new pump come with the filter assembly? If so, I may just go that route. If not, I guess I'll try the filter first and then the pump. Looking through this service manual, I think I can replace both myself, so no labor cost involved thankfully.

 

[sixpack577]

Search fuel pump here.
You'll get all the info you need.
It varies a little depending on year.
ChrisJP has a cheap filter solution too.

 

[Shaun Ketterman]

Will do! How familiar are you (or anyone still following) with the throttle body sync process? I've done it twice now, but I'm not entirely confident I'm doing it properly - particularly in terms of the vacuum hoses.

This is how my vacuum hoses looked after following Jinksters thread on synching. After this last attempt, I actually moved all the hoses back to the original configuration.

When performing the TB sync, I connect my manometer's lines 1-2-3-4 into the above numbered ports 6-5-3-1 respectively. So my question is:

During the synching process, what specifically should be done with port/hose labeled #2 in my photo? In Jinksters write-up, it *appears* that he connects my hose labeled #4 to my port labeled #2, but I can't say for certain. The reason I ask, is because when I perform the sync, my bike idle's HORRIBLY. Up and down, up and down, and it is very difficult to get the 4 meters to line up properly. When removing the air box, there are 3 hoses (2 on the back of the airbox and one on the bottom) and I believe 2 electrical connectors (a green one on the left side and one that is screwed onto the box on the back side) that you have to disconnect to get the box off. Should I somehow reconnect the electrical ones? They seem to make the bike run better during the process, but I don't know if that will cause my readings to be off?

Also, I purchased the bike with this:

This valve on the bottom of my airbox has been capped off with an orange nipple. Does this have something to do with the PAIR valve you mentioned / should I worry or concern myself with this?

 

[nosbig]

Can't help with the sync, but I can tell you the orange nipple you referred to is from the factory.

 

[Shaun Ketterman]

okay cool that's good enough lol. Hey man seriously thanks for all the input. I'd buy you a beer if I could ;-)

Is there a way to 'tag' people here? I'd really like to get Jinksters input on some of this stuff. I tried messaging him but didn't get a reply...

 

[piratediverjefff]

Will do! How familiar are you (or anyone still following) with the throttle body sync process? I've done it twice now, but I'm not entirely confident I'm doing it properly - particularly in terms of the vacuum hoses.

View attachment 1570109

This is how my vacuum hoses looked after following Jinksters thread on synching. After this last attempt, I actually moved all the hoses back to the original configuration.

When performing the TB sync, I connect my manometer's lines 1-2-3-4 into the above numbered ports 6-5-3-1 respectively. So my question is:

During the synching process, what specifically should be done with port/hose labeled #2 in my photo? In Jinksters write-up, it *appears* that he connects my hose labeled #4 to my port labeled #2, but I can't say for certain. The reason I ask, is because when I perform the sync, my bike idle's HORRIBLY. Up and down, up and down, and it is very difficult to get the 4 meters to line up properly. When removing the air box, there are 3 hoses (2 on the back of the airbox and one on the bottom) and I believe 2 electrical connectors (a green one on the left side and one that is screwed onto the box on the back side) that you have to disconnect to get the box off. Should I somehow reconnect the electrical ones? They seem to make the bike run better during the process, but I don't know if that will cause my readings to be off?

Also, I purchased the bike with this:

View attachment 1570110

This valve on the bottom of my airbox has been capped off with an orange nipple. Does this have something to do with the PAIR valve you mentioned / should I worry or concern myself with this?

My guess is it's a drain for the box but can't say for sure.