Opinions needed! 1/4 mile time guesses

c10 said:
Wow I did not realize Gen1's were so slow on mph on big end . I would figure sleek body work / 160 plus hp would mph better than a naked ZRX with just 1164 cc's @ 57" wheelbase .
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Weight and air are big factors of course, but for me 146 was a good number on a gen1, and 151 is a good number on a gen2 with stock wheelbase and only exhaust and lithium battery for weight reduction. I don't think bodywork makes much of a difference at these speeds.
 
Dennis said:
Weight and air are big factors of course, but for me 146 was a good number on a gen1, and 151 is a good number on a gen2 with stock wheelbase and only exhaust and lithium battery for weight reduction. I don't think bodywork makes much of a difference at these speeds.
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I would mph 144 to 148 @ sea level on my ZRX just a mere 135 hp . I have kicked around running the bird more than the one pass its seen , but the track was so poor condition right after Harvey ( hurricane ) the desire has been very little with the new owners . If its not a big NHRA event there is ZERO track prep . Many bikes go down out there now with how slick it is .
 
c10 said:
I would mph 144 to 148 @ sea level on my ZRX just a mere 135 hp . I have kicked around running the bird more than the one pass its seen , but the track was so poor condition right after Harvey ( hurricane ) the desire has been very little with the new owners . If its not a big NHRA event there is ZERO track prep . Many bikes go down out there now with how slick it is .
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I like reasonable track prep. I’ve seen no prep races with better surfaces than some days around here. Our DA is 1500 on a good day and I’m happy with 2500 any given day during the summer. 4500 is common on bad days.
 
Dennis said:
The pass looks pretty good. You just need practice. Get the throttle open and slip the clutch to maintain max acceleration and not wheelie. Play with your gearing and see what you like. For only 4 days at the track you are doing excellent.
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Thankyou! Much appreciated. I'm making slow changes so I can see what's actually helping. Want to throw my 43 tooth on the rear to ensure myself but I will try with the 41 first. Yes thankyou. I've never drag raced a motorcycle before and the busa is my first bike lol. I've only ridden dirtbikes when I was younger. And barely did that. I'm gonna go and drop the hammer and throw the clutch and see what fine line I need to be at. Until then, I'll do some GOOD maintenance to it lol.
 
Bankrupt said:
Thankyou! Much appreciated. I'm making slow changes so I can see what's actually helping. Want to throw my 43 tooth on the rear to ensure myself but I will try with the 41 first. Yes thankyou. I've never drag raced a motorcycle before and the busa is my first bike lol. I've only ridden dirtbikes when I was younger. And barely did that. I'm gonna go and drop the hammer and throw the clutch and see what fine line I need to be at. Until then, I'll do some GOOD maintenance to it lol.
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It's not really about throwing the clutch so much as finding the right combination of setup (which you are already doing a good job of working on) but running both hands correctly. If you get violent with the clutch you will spin or wheelie. Somewhere on Youtube Ricky Gadsen talks about how to run a hand clutch on different wheelbase bikes. He is the man, I am not, but the graph below is from my 2008 with stock 2013 motor, hand clutch 68-1/2" bike. It takes me 0.3 seconds to get to 90% throttle, and a full second before the clutch is locked. Ideally this pass would be smoother and not drop all the way to 6000 rpms and I would have a better 60' and overall e.t. This was a 1.32 sixty. I need to practice but there is another story to my next steps.

1.32 8.76 stock motor hand clutch.jpg
 
Dennis said:
It's not really about throwing the clutch so much as finding the right combination of setup (which you are already doing a good job of working on) but running both hands correctly. If you get violent with the clutch you will spin or wheelie. Somewhere on Youtube Ricky Gadsen talks about how to run a hand clutch on different wheelbase bikes. He is the man, I am not, but the graph below is from my 2008 with stock 2013 motor, hand clutch 68-1/2" bike. It takes me 0.3 seconds to get to 90% throttle, and a full second before the clutch is locked. Ideally this pass would be smoother and not drop all the way to 6000 rpms and I would have a better 60' and overall e.t. This was a 1.32 sixty. I need to practice but there is another story to my next steps.

View attachment 1626374
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that seems like a really solid pass! 1.32 woooo!!!! Damn I need that haha. Maybe need some engine work done
 
c10 said:
Wow I did not realize Gen1's were so slow on mph on big end . I would figure sleek body work / 160 plus hp would mph better than a naked ZRX with just 1164 cc's @ 57" wheelbase .
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Not many at the drag strip are concerned with MPH. ET is what wins the race...
 
Popie said:
Not many at the drag strip are concerned with MPH. ET is what wins the race...
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Strongly disagree, MPH is extremely important for both tuning and more importantly winning. ET is chassis and suspension set-up, gearing and rider. MPH is weight and horsepower.
 
ItsDooomz said:
Strongly disagree, MPH is extremely important for both tuning and more importantly winning. ET is chassis and suspension set-up, gearing and rider. MPH is weight and horsepower.
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That's fine... That's your opinion. I stated mine. And they're both valid. Maybe I should have said it like this...
For example say you play with gearing or shift points. And pick up a tenth or two. Your MPH might increase, it might decrease, or even stay the same. What I was trying to get across was the fastest is not always the quickest. I look at it from the riders end of it. How you launch, your 60, and hitting your shift points. My Busa and Gixxer are both stock motor bikes. I feel like the set up is as good as I can get it on both. The rest is up to me. And I guess I like seeing how much I can squeeze out of stock motor bikes.
 
I wish I could pick up a tenth or two playing with shift points or gearing on my pump gas stock motor bike. That'd be awesome. Got any time slips you'd like to share?
 
ItsDooomz said:
I wish I could pick up a tenth or two playing with shift points or gearing on my pump gas stock motor bike. That'd be awesome. Got any time slips you'd like to share?
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I did not say playing with gearing or shift points would pick you up a tenth or two. I started that by saying for example...
Lets do it like this. What I'm doing works for me. And what you're doing works for you. Lets both stick with what we're doing...
 
Well that's all fine and dandy but you can't come in here and tell people that "many aren't concerned". They should be very concerned. MPH = HP and directly impacts your ET. My junk goes 8.70's at 155 in the blistering heat and humidity during Florida's summer months. (Stock motor / pump gas / 67" / 650 lbs) Low 1.30's is all I can get out of it at this HP level. With another 30 or 40 horsepower it'll dip into the 1.20s. That will push MPH into the 160 range. Again, it's a direct correlation between HP/MPH/ET. You can run big MPH with a crappy ET if you're set up is off or you don't know what you're doing but the opposite is not true. That's why you don't see 8 second 140 mph bikes. #MPHmatters :beerchug:
 
OK... Let me say this a different way. And the last way. If my set up is as good as I can get it. And I am getting the lowest possible ET out of the bike. I have NO concern about MPH. That's what I meant in my original comment...
 
Either way. I hope I can make it to the 9.49 with the chassis changes. That's all I need. Going this friday. will update with results.
 
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