Advice from you 1/4 mile experts. Went 9.72 today

[Draco1340]

Some minor edits...These numbers are only approximate and vary greatly from one rider or track to another.

Stock stock GenII and capable 180 lb rider = 9.90.

Lower - straps and links are first place to start. Slam it as low as possible without hitting anything. Lowering the Rear is limited by the tail. Lowering the front is limited by the pipe and oil pan.
Lowered GenII and capable 180 lb rider = 9.70.

Safer - as soon as you start hammering bike, you need to ditch the 2 piece clutch hub. Put a good chain on as well. Stock ones are junk. A broken chain can ruin you day / life. Also, a shift light and air shifter can save your motor against the abuse of missed shifts. I can hand shift just as fast, but the consistency is worth the money.
Lowered GenII w/ air shifter and capable 180 lb rider = 9.65.

Longer - only way to address wheelies. If you want a good 60', you need to hammer full throttle out of the lights. Gen II bikes run into problems clearing tail section much more than Gen I bikes.
Lowered stretched GenII w/ air shifter and capable 180 lb rider = spin, spin, spin.

Stickier - The minute you stretch, you need a tire. Shinko Hook Up seems to be best bang for buck. If you don't want to put a tire on, don't stretch.
Lowered 8" stretched GenII w. Shinko Hook Up, and capable 180 lb rider = 9.30 with occasional spinning.

Stiffer - the minute you put a stretch more than 3", you need to revalve your shock. Stock one is designed for stock length (and like Professor said a 160lb Japanese rider). Longer one needs way more spring preload, and rebound and compression damping, or you will spin. Trak Performance will re-spring and re-valve the stock shock for <$300. Now you can come out of the hole with throttle pinned at 6krpm.
GenII with above modes, and capable 180 lb rider = 9.20 or lower

Lighter - OK, so now you have your 60' times down around 1.40, so its time to work on the 330'. Get the lead out. Start from the back of the bike first. If you take all the weight off the front, your back looking at the sky. A GenII is somthing like 560 lbs. The first 50 lbs are easy, but a Busa can go down to 450 or even 430 lbs and still be street legal. Taking 80 lbs off your bike is WAY easier and cheaper than adding 40 HP.
480lb GenII with above mods, and capable 180 lb rider = 8.95 or lower Now were moving

Stronger - we all want more powerful bikes, but adding more power should be the last thing you do to go faster. Power gives you MPH, but it doesn't change ET that radically. I have seen many 400 HP turbos get beat by stock motor bikes with good chassis setups.
Sky is the limit

 

[bisquit61]

Drac01340 is spot on!!!!

 

[Fast08]

Some minor edits...These numbers are only approximate and vary greatly from one rider or track to another.

Stock stock GenII and capable 180 lb rider = 9.90.

Lower - straps and links are first place to start. Slam it as low as possible without hitting anything. Lowering the Rear is limited by the tail. Lowering the front is limited by the pipe and oil pan.
Lowered GenII and capable 180 lb rider = 9.70.

Safer - as soon as you start hammering bike, you need to ditch the 2 piece clutch hub. Put a good chain on as well. Stock ones are junk. A broken chain can ruin you day / life. Also, a shift light and air shifter can save your motor against the abuse of missed shifts. I can hand shift just as fast, but the consistency is worth the money.
Lowered GenII w/ air shifter and capable 180 lb rider = 9.65.

Longer - only way to address wheelies. If you want a good 60', you need to hammer full throttle out of the lights. Gen II bikes run into problems clearing tail section much more than Gen I bikes.
Lowered stretched GenII w/ air shifter and capable 180 lb rider = spin, spin, spin.

Stickier - The minute you stretch, you need a tire. Shinko Hook Up seems to be best bang for buck. If you don't want to put a tire on, don't stretch.
Lowered 8" stretched GenII w. Shinko Hook Up, and capable 180 lb rider = 9.30 with occasional spinning.

Stiffer - the minute you put a stretch more than 3", you need to revalve your shock. Stock one is designed for stock length (and like Professor said a 160lb Japanese rider). Longer one needs way more spring preload, and rebound and compression damping, or you will spin. Trak Performance will re-spring and re-valve the stock shock for <$300. Now you can come out of the hole with throttle pinned at 6krpm.
GenII with above modes, and capable 180 lb rider = 9.20 or lower

Lighter - OK, so now you have your 60' times down around 1.40, so its time to work on the 330'. Get the lead out. Start from the back of the bike first. If you take all the weight off the front, your back looking at the sky. A GenII is somthing like 560 lbs. The first 50 lbs are easy, but a Busa can go down to 450 or even 430 lbs and still be street legal. Taking 80 lbs off your bike is WAY easier and cheaper than adding 40 HP.
480lb GenII with above mods, and capable 180 lb rider = 8.95 or lower Now were moving

Stronger - we all want more powerful bikes, but adding more power should be the last thing you do to go faster. Power gives you MPH, but it doesn't change ET that radically. I have seen many 400 HP turbos get beat by stock motor bikes with good chassis setups.
Sky is the limit

What exactly are you removing to lose 80 lbs. I know a sub frame frome dme is 7lbs. a light weight battery is 6.5 lbs, removing rear pegs is 3 lbs, cazzoria wheels are 7 lbs total front and back. exahust is 12 or a little more. so that's 35.5 lbs. where is the other 45 lbs coming from? not being smart I'm really interested as my buddy has all of the above and if we took another 45 lbs off he would be going 8.60's on motor pump gas and 8.30's on spray. stock motor

 

[Fast08]

Guess if he added a tank in there he would be close to your first 50lbs is easy but also pretty damn expensive in my book. pretty close money wise to adding the 40 hp only thing is stock motors seem to last alot longer.
I know he has
1700.00 wheels
550.00 sub frame
250 battery
1000 exhaust which you would have even on a motor build.
so with out the exhust he is at 2500.00. you could add 40 hp for around 500.00 with a well set up nos set up.

 

[Draco1340]

Weight loss is a whole other thread. I'm at 452 lbs topped off and street legal right now without spending any crazy money. I hope to get down to 425 over the winter. I am just suggesting that reducing weight is usually cheaper in the long run than the equivalent increase in power. Sure a 40 dry shot is easy and cheap (build one yourself for $200 in parts), but to do it reliably you need to go through the head, and that could cost you $400 to $1200 dollars. Then you need controllers and heaters and spares and regulators and regulators for another $600.

The alternative:
Eat less, run more, lose 10 lbs - free (I run 45 miles a week so that I can race)
Remove oil cooler - free (not a turbo out there that runs one)
Romove safety screen from first fan - free
Remove second fan - free
Remove regulator bracket and wing - free
Remove insulation on interior of every pannel - free
Remove battery and make yourself LiFe battery from Dewault pack - free
Make light weight rear subframe - $25 in tubing
Remove rear foot pegs - free
Remove lead weights off front pegs - duh
Remove bar ends - free
Integrate rear blinkers into tail light -fee.
Remove PAIR valving and bracketry

I could go on all morning, but the point is there is a huge amount of crap on these things that can be removed before you spend a dime. There are also a bunch of things that do need to be purchased so buy the lightest.

Pipe - mine is only 7 lbs. Stock GenII is something stupid like 48lbs?
Swingarm - chromemolly arms are way lighter than stock. Aluminum look cool but are heavier.
Rear wheel - 90% of the weight reduction and only 60% of the cost for a set of CF wheels can be had if you only purchase the rear.

Just suggestions...

 

[Fast08]

Well his regulator bracket is removed and he is running Buell pegs and pair is removed so guess he has lost that 1 to 2 lbs as well. lb as well. he can't lose any weight himself. he's as light as he can get. we have talked about taking the oil cooler off. seems to us a 40 shot is pretty safe on these gen 2's if killing fuel and ignition when shifting. his bike has over 60 runs on the spray and 1000 or so off of it. and another gen 2 in our group has close to 100 on the spray.

 

[Draco1340]

Its just my opinion that power adders should be the last step in the process. Get the bike into the 8s or close to the 8s on motor before you mess with spray. A 40 shot on a Gen II is dicey. I personally have measured only 24 lbs spring pressure on a Gen II motor with only 1000 miles on it. The titanium valves are more prone to wear and leak. Dry shot motors can fail in two ways. Either the valves float during over-rev, and bounce off the top of the piston. This dislodges the shim and frequently the keeper(s). The valve either partially drops, or worse case fully drops, destroying piston, rod, head and crank. The other mechanism for failure is a leaky Ti intake valve can lead to a backfire in the manifold and airbox. The back of the valves are pressurized momentarily, causing the valve to come in contact with piston, disloging the spit shim and keeper. Gen I motors had SS valves and much heavier springs, but a Gen II is much riskier, and really requires valve and spring replacement.

 

[Fast08]

Ya he is in the 8's on motor on pump gas. we have heard this about the 08 springs and valves as well. seasons done here and he's thinking about pulling the head off and changing springs and valves.