overheating

[Deputy]

I have two dimwit questions but I HAVE to ask because...well...I am a dimwit on this one
On some cars that use electric fans to cool them, they kick on and even after the engine is turned off, they run for a period of time. Is this the case with the Busa too? If so, it might explain the draw-down of the battery after the engine is shut off.

Secondly, I use synthetic oil in my Harleys and my cars (two Vettes and a 2002 Monte Carlo) and they run considerably cooler because of this. Would synthetic oil benefit the Busa too? Either way I plan on using it in my Busa when oil change time comes around.

Okay....you all have permision to laugh at me now

Dep

 

[Revlis]

Hey Dep, I missed the Battery drain thing. I allways shut her down with the key only. That way the head light is off and all is well, also as you know if you twist the key past lock, your taillight comes on, sort of a poor mans Hazards I guess.

The best is having the motor shut down near the beach, while sitting in traffic, you get to talk to the pretty ladies...

 

[BulletTrain]

Deputy,

I think the general concensus is that you should wait til around 4000 miles or so before going synthetic so that the engine fully breaks in. It is said that synthetics keep the engine parts from fully breaking in if used too soon on a new motor. I have no idea if this is true or not but my post should bring this thread back to the top so maybe someone that really knows the answer to your question can step up.

 

[Deputy]

BT: Never heard of that consensus before. My '98 Vette came with Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic from the factory and that's all I ever used. Pretty much ALL Harley owners of the TwinCam engine use synthetic exclusively after first oil change (Harley is too cheap to put synthetic in from factory) because the newer Harley engines run quite hot. Only thing I have ever heard negative about synthetics was that when they first came out, engines that had been running on dino oil tended to use oil when switched to synthetic. I sure will be puting in synthetic on my first oil change on my Busa.

Dep
P.S. We could probably e-mail Amsoil or Mobil and they would have a clarification on when it could be used.

 

[Iced]

So I couldn't get my bike to overheat today just letting it idle. After 10 minutes of full choke after startup (about 2500rpm), I shut off the choke and let it idle around 1150rpm for another 15 minutes. The temp gauge sits slightly just under the half way point with the fan kicking in every 20 seconds or so for about 15 seconds. It never completely rose above the half way mark. It wasn't hot enough today I guess... :rock:

 

[monsterspeedfreak]

So I couldn't get my bike to overheat today just letting it idle.  After 10 minutes of full choke after startup (about 2500rpm), I shut off the choke and let it idle around 1150rpm for another 15 minutes.  The temp gauge sits slightly just under the half way point with the fan kicking in every 20 seconds or so for about 15 seconds.  It never completely rose above the half way mark.  It wasn't hot enough today I guess... :rock:

Dude.......it said 28 on my therm at 2 pm......that's hotter than the night at the gas station by far.
Good it's not overheating though

 

[Deputy]

Deputy,

I think the general concensus is that you should wait til around 4000 miles or so before going synthetic so that the engine fully breaks in. It is said that synthetics keep the engine parts from fully breaking in if used too soon on a new motor. I have no idea if this is true or not but my post should bring this thread back to the top so maybe someone that really knows the answer to your question can step up.  

BT: Got this from Amsoil today....

Mike,

At one time that was true. Synthetics have come a long way in the last 20 years and in fact, many new cars and bikes are now coming from the factory with synthetic fill! The use of AMSOIL  synthetics will not prevent your engine from breaking-in.  You can actually change to AMSOIL right away!  We do however recommended to operate the engine up to its first normal drain interval with the factory motor oil.  There are a couple primary reasons for this recommendation.



1.      New engines or engine components generate high wear metals to begin with and generally contain debris from machining and assembly.  It is more beneficial to allow these wear metals to collect in the factory motor oil than to circulate throughout the crankcase for extended periods in synthetic motor oil.  By operating the vehicle to its first drain interval with the factory oil, these wear metals and manufacturing debris collect in the oil and are then flushed out of the crankcase when drained.  This allows for a much cleaner operating environment for the new synthetic lubricant.

2.      Within the first miles of operation, if there are any defects in the assembly or workmanship of the engine components, then they may be corrected before installing the more expensive synthetic motor oil.



Thank you,
Ed Kellerman
Manager, Amsoil Tech Services
------------------
So actually, you can change to full synthetic at the first oil change at 600 miles/ 1 month. Which is what I plan on doing.


Dep

 

[EAKbusa]

What weight should I use when I switch to synthetic (using 10W 40 "dino" oil now)?

And to get back on track on this thread topic, does using synthetic help the engine run cooler or is this just a theory based on "non scientific" measurement and/or conjecture?

 

[Deputy]

What weight should I use when I switch to synthetic (using 10W 40 "dino" oil now)?

And to get back on track on this thread topic, does using synthetic help the engine run cooler or is this just a theory based on "non scientific" measurement and/or conjecture?

Use the weight recommended in the owner's manual. 10W40.
Both Mobil 1 and Amsoil make synthetic oil in that weight.

From posts I have seen on many forums from people who measured the temp of the oil before and after switching, there is a DEFINITE drop in oil temps when switched to synthetic. Personally, that is good enough for me. Synthetic definitely shows less wear on engine parts as compared to dino oil.

The controversy I have is with "motorcyle oil" vs "car oil". I plan on using Mobil 1 15W50 CAR oil in my '99 Harley. I really don't think there is ANY difference (other than label) between car oil and motorcycle oil when it comes to synthetics.
You can do searches on the web and find sites for and against using car oil in motorcycles.

Dep

 

[johncal]

Just curious, How many of you guys that have overheating problems have an aftermarket exhaust and never re-mapped the fuel. Bikes that run lean, run hot. Could be part of the problem.

Johncal

 

[rubbersidedown]

The controversy I have is with "motorcyle oil" vs "car oil". I plan on using Mobil 1 15W50 CAR oil in my '99 Harley. I really don't think there is ANY difference (other than label) between car oil and motorcycle oil when it comes to synthetics.
You can do searches on the web and find sites for and against using car oil in motorcycles.

Dep

There is a huge difference between car oil and bike oil . Car oils that use whats refered to as "energy conserving componants" which will destroy a bike using a wet-system clutch. The type of clutch used by the huge majority of jap bikes, including Busa's. The energy conserving oil might not damage yer Harley clutch cause the engine,trans,and primary oil remain sepparate.
Just a thought .

 

[SierraFlyer]

Hey Deputy, I don't know about the Synth oil lowering temps, but the reason for most of the overheating is that the exhaust pipes are run about 3/4" from the oils and coolant radiators/lines. This literally cooks the oil and coolant rather than cooling them. To prove it, just try and hold your fingers that close to your hot pipes. It takes a lot of airflow to overcome that radiant heat "preheating" the radiators. Since I wrapped the headers, the temps have never gotten above the center line by more than a needle width. And that was stopped in traffic on 100+degree day and I was holding 2500-3000 RPM trying to get it hot.

That is real temperature lowering. I would think the oil might save a couple of degrees at best. Try both??

 

[Deputy]

rubbersidedown: If you check out Mobil 1 15W50 car oil you'll see that it is NOT energy conserving. Most of the energy conserving car oils are 10W30 or 5W30. 10W40 car oil is NOT energy conserving. And LOTS of guys have been using Castrol 10W40 car oil in their bikes for YEARS without any problems with clutch or engine. The problem with motorcycle clutches stems from synthetic oil being "slipprier" than standard dino oil. Even today some bikes can't use some versions of syntheic oil because the clutch slips.

SierraFlyer: I know about wrapping headers...been a hot roder for quite some time
However, be advised that doing so in cars causes EXTREME heat on the pipes themselves, since they are't able to be cooled by air rushing by. In cars this leads to a shorter lifespan of the pipes. Something you might want to consider.

Dep

 

[rubbersidedown]

rubbersidedown: If you check out Mobil 1 15W50 car oil you'll see that it is NOT energy conserving. Most of the energy conserving car oils are 10W30 or 5W30. 10W40 car oil is NOT energy conserving. And LOTS of guys have been using Castrol 10W40 car oil in their bikes for YEARS without any problems with clutch or engine. The problem with motorcycle clutches stems from synthetic oil being "slipprier" than standard dino oil. Even today some bikes can't use some versions of syntheic oil because the clutch slips.

SierraFlyer: I know about wrapping headers...been a hot roder for quite some time  
However, be advised that doing so in cars causes EXTREME heat on the pipes themselves, since they are't able to be cooled by air rushing by. In cars this leads to a shorter lifespan of the pipes. Something you might want to consider.

Dep

We have chatted about this from time to time on the board(the header wrap thing) , the general consences was that the header tape could cause cracking , althou no one has yet to experience this on their Busa . I have put about 5000 miles on my bike since wrapping the headers . I have a full Hindle system made of titanium .
So far - so good . have a good 1....RSD

 

[monsterspeedfreak]

 I have put about 5000 miles on my bike since wrapping the headers . I have a full Hindle system made of titanium .    
           So far - so good .               have a good 1....RSD

Yep.......I can back him up on that, they're deffinately wrapped.........keep us posted on the TI wrap Rubba......I'm kinda curious on this one.

 

[Busafied]

I added a 2nd fan to help out with traffic, sometimes you just can't help but get caught up in it.
you can view it here

B

 

[Deputy]

rubbersidedown: Glad you aren't having any problems with the header wrap! Maybe the titanium runs cooler than regular pipes. I know stainless gets MUCH hotter than regular steel.
Personally, I haven't had any heat problems on my Busa at all. No mods yet, although I have the TRE waiting for a nice day to be installed. I have heard that it could cause things to run hotter. I am usually able to avoid heavy traffic though.

Dep