Radiator / coolant system sucking air

[RedFalco]

Lol... Thanks Delbert, tabs down it is.. (that helps tremendously) Once I found out what they were, research within the .OrgVault says to replace.
Also the Engine mount lock nuts (the two that mount engine to frame thru transfer case) ; manual states once removed they are of no use. So... new nuts and exhaust gaskets should be delivered week ending.
Cylinder block cleaned and prep'd this weekend. Lower half of engine ready to take on the "new" head. (Pic's forth coming...lol)
Needing to pick up a shim kit. Just realized w/ a valve job performed; I'm needing to start anew.
Really not sure on how to start a shim process from anew head.
I'm guessing; put the tappets on without any shims. Put cam shafts in. Measure clearance to determine shims needed? Which means I'll be needing a shim kit..
(Can't wait to pull together the list of parts not accounted for on this "simple" gasket project...lol)

Preciate the Kudos' there dmallord!
Peace out.

 

[delbert]

As you say put in shims as removed , then measure gaps ,make your self a simple chart of the valve layout and shims needed for each valve. you should be able to work out how to correct most of them by swapping what you have around so you may only need to purchase a couple. Also in the workshop manual you should find a simple chart of how to work out shim sizes, if you do a search there is a good thread on valve clearances .
ALB Delbert

 

[GIXERHP]

As you say put in shims as removed , then measure gaps ,make your self a simple chart of the valve layout and shims needed for each valve. you should be able to work out how to correct most of them by swapping what you have around so you may only need to purchase a couple. Also in the workshop manual you should find a simple chart of how to work out shim sizes, if you do a search there is a good thread on valve clearances .
ALB Delbert

The best way is to shim the head before you re-assemble the engine!
Having a shim kit make is sooo much easier!

Tease here

 

[GIXERHP]

I have no idea what you mean about the engine mount that need to be replaced! I have never seen any one replace any of the mounting hardware.

Lol... Thanks Delbert, tabs down it is.. (that helps tremendously) Once I found out what they were, research within the .OrgVault says to replace.
Also the Engine mount lock nuts (the two that mount engine to frame thru transfer case) ; manual states once removed they are of no use. So... new nuts and exhaust gaskets should be delivered week ending.
Cylinder block cleaned and prep'd this weekend. Lower half of engine ready to take on the "new" head. (Pic's forth coming...lol)
Needing to pick up a shim kit. Just realized w/ a valve job performed; I'm needing to start anew.
Really not sure on how to start a shim process from anew head.
I'm guessing; put the tappets on without any shims. Put cam shafts in. Measure clearance to determine shims needed? Which means I'll be needing a shim kit..
(Can't wait to pull together the list of parts not accounted for on this "simple" gasket project...lol)

Preciate the Kudos' there dmallord!
Peace out.

 

[GIXERHP]

Those are exhaust gasket, and you should replace them!

lol.. Yeah, been peeping around here like a fly on the wall, awaiting funds. lol

Ran into a dellima this afternoon. I'm piece'n' the head back together and I am at a lose on what and where these rings go. They were packaged seperately when I recieved the head back. I'm thinking exhaust ports. If so, how are they oreintated therein? They look to have "tits" of sort on em. (Tits up or tits down?)
Preciate you all.

 

[RedFalco]

As you say put in shims as removed , then measure gaps ,make your self a simple chart of the valve layout and shims needed for each valve. you should be able to work out how to correct most of them by swapping what you have around so you may only need to purchase a couple. Also in the workshop manual you should find a simple chart of how to work out shim sizes, if you do a search there is a good thread on valve clearances .
ALB Delbert

The best way is to shim the head before you re-assemble the engine!
Having a shim kit make is sooo much easier!

Tease here

Very nice.. I've been eye ball'n' a kit on APE.
The problem is this:
The head had a performance valve job done. I sent the head in with the tappets and shims installed. I never removed them nor did I record which shims go where before I sent the head in. (lesson learned) I got the head back with all the shims in a sealed bag and I don't have a clue of what goes where. So the question is, how do I start a brand new shim job from scratch. I'd hate to just start throwing shims in there not knowing whats what... then measure. Studied the valve cleareance check and measurements top to bottom in the manual along with the chart. Chart makes easy work if I had a shim default to go by..lol

I have no idea what you mean about the engine mount that need to be replaced! I have never seen any one replace any of the mounting hardware.

Sorry.. I can be confusing. They are the two nuts on the ends of the bolts that run through frame and transfer case. Manual states "NOTE: The engine mounting nuts are self-locking. Once the nuts have been removed, they are no longer of any use." Snaped off a picture of the lock nuts. The bottom one is missing in the picture as I took it off to the local stealership to see if they stocked them. (which they did but were out) Got a set half the price the stealership wanted.. (OEM)

Advice taken on the exhaust gaskets. Thank you.

 

[GIXERHP]

As for the tappets, and shims, did Ape send them back, on the head, or in a bag?

 

[RedFalco]

The shims were all grouped together in a sealed bag.
ty

 

[GIXERHP]

Well that sucks, when i dismantle a head, i have trays numbered! Even with a valve job done, it's a good reference point!

So for you at this point, find the 8 smallest shims, and assemble one side at a time, and measure each one, and take good notes!
If you want , send me your number and i can help you over the phone!

 

[RedFalco]

Yeah, I will absolutely number everything next go round and will take good notes going forward.
WoW..now that is absolutely brilliant. Would of never guessed to use the smallest shims as a referance "marker" to start with. I can then utilize the charts to give me the precise shim needed. That makes real good sense; You da MAN!! Can't begin to thank you enough for that tip and your willingness to help via phone, your good people GIXERHP, and will keep that offer in mind.
D@mnIt son... You REALLY made my day.
Now to deploy a scheme to get off work early, for I have seen the light.

 

[GIXERHP]

Yeah, I will absolutely number everything next go round and will take good notes going forward.
WoW..now that is absolutely brilliant. Would of never guessed to use the smallest shims as a referance "marker" to start with. I can then utilize the charts to give me the precise shim needed. That makes real good sense; You da MAN!! Can't begin to thank you enough for that tip and your willingness to help via phone, your good people GIXERHP, and will keep that offer in mind.
D@mnIt son... You REALLY made my day.
Now to deploy a scheme to get off work early, for I have seen the light.

Not a problem!

 

[delbert]

The best way is to shim the head before you re-assemble the engine!
Having a shim kit make is sooo much easier!

Tease here

Thats ok in theory , but i have seen clearances alter once the head is fitted and torqued down , so with that in mind i would recheck them once fitted if you go this way

 

[GIXERHP]

Well i have built at least 30 motors like this and never had a problem!
Maybe there can be a change after the motor has been run, for a while, or the the part are not cleaned properly!

Thats ok in theory , but i have seen clearances alter once the head is fitted and torqued down , so with that in mind i would recheck them once fitted if you go this way

 

[delbert]

Well i have built at least 30 motors like this and never had a problem!
Maybe there can be a change after the motor has been run, for a while, or the the part are not cleaned properly!

not doubting you for one moment , just sharing some of my experiences , i have seen some weird and wonderful things in my time that may only be a one off but you always remember them .

cant help but wonder why ape didnt shim the head before its return , surly it would only be a phone call to ask if he wanted it doing at an extra cost .

 

[GIXERHP]

Machine shops will shim the head, but you must request it be done! Every time KWS Motorsports does a head for me, they ask, but however, i have my own shim kit! So i save $100 AT LEAST.

not doubting you for one moment , just sharing some of my experiences , i have seen some weird and wonderful things in my time that may only be a one off but you always remember them .

cant help but wonder why ape didnt shim the head before its return , surly it would only be a phone call to ask if he wanted it doing at an extra cost .

 

[RedFalco]

It's all good; I was told because of the valve job that it will need to be re shim'd. I should of kept the shims & tappets in the ole egg carton trick and saved the extra shipping....lol.. No biggie. My lowest shim was 2.70mm; picked up a 5 pck of em at the local stealership. I'll have exactly eight 2.70 shims. Install them at top dead center, put together; measure, record. Take apart, relocate the 2.7 shims to other valves, put back together. Turn engine over 360, measure, record. Take back apart and wait for shims needed. We'll get there. I'm on track for getting the shim clearances measured and confirmed tomarrow evening.
In the mean time... Here's were we sit. All torqued down and almost ready to measure shim clearance.

 

[RedFalco]

"Mission Control, we have touchdown!"

Thanks all.

 

[GIXERHP]

You should have just shimmed the head on the bench! But either way works.

 

[RedFalco]

You should have just shimmed the head on the bench! But either way works.

Yeah... I've been working by the manual to the tee. (torque'n it all down then measuring is the way I went) Any type of shortcut for me, always leads to trouble or me tearing something up..lol

After SEVERAL mix, match and swap attempts, I was able to get all the valves to minimum spec. All of my 2.9mm and several 2.88mm "stock" shims where not used?
Is it best to spec towards the minimum or maximum scale of the spec? Knowing my luck it will be the maximum or in between.
:unhappy:

This is what I got-

 

[delbert]

Keep at it bud , you are nearly home lease: