Ready to turbo

[Jailer]

Trust me it is very addicting. Boost is kinda like crack, you just can't get enough.

The stage 1 is nice, but it's also nice to know that you can add things like secondaries and an intercooler down the road if you want more. The ghetto kit allows for that. I don't know if Burts kit does, but it's just one thing to consider. Get the base kit and run it for a while. Add an intercooler when the pocketbook allows. Add a spacer to be safe. After that add secondaries and ditch the FMU and you can take your stock motor to it's limits (about 330 to 340 HP). Best part is you can do it as your budget allows.

 

[Vic_E55_2001]

John, you better start saving for another commuter bike...

The one with turbo gonna be in the shop all the time ... and when not... well.....
overheating in traffic.

How about this one for commuting?

 

[MN72Busa]

The one with turbo gonna be in the shop all the time ... and when not...

lol...Vic, you have to remember, I will be installing the Turbo, however I do realize your comment would be of a valid concern if You did the job for me...lol -- j/k my friend...You have given me some great advice in the past, and when I get and put this thing on....tell the girlfriend your comming to Minneapolis for a few days on my dime

 

[Vic_E55_2001]

I`m curious.... You was shaving all that weight off the bike why exactly? to put another 50 LB of Turbo hardware?  

I would be happy to visit you ..... One question tho... The plan was that you will ride to Colorado.... Don`t you believe that your bike will make it after you installed turbo on it? Yeah.. I think so...

Seriously man...  Go buy  a scooter for everyday rides... You can get membership in Russian Scooter Gang...



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[TURBO1320]

Its the same but differnt on the kits,Burt

could you define same and different?

Not trying to bust your balls, you seem like a god guy, just curious.

Hoses,fittings,Intake manifold,and a pre indexed turbo lot closer to plug and play,Burt

 

[sageronin]

Valium ... I was in the same boat last year as you are now. I'm not a techy and didn't know squat about turbo's except that I wanted one. Gary (S4L) was the first person I contacted after I did some reading/research on my own. (Lots of other people helped me too) He definitely steered me in the right direction. He is an experienced guy with a wealth of knowledge. I've heard great things about Burt too, so you're doing the right thing by talking to the folks in the know. I'd say keep on talking to as many people as possible before making your decision. Knowledge is power. I ended up paying extra to have my kit installed and tuned by a professional. I'm also a street rider only, but I like it so much that I'm getting my second bike boosted too!!

Sage - your input is always appreciated and respected. Didn't you post a few pics of your bike on its way to TMH a week or 2 back?

Im really liking the intercooler idea. Still doing lots of reading, but have been so busy working I havent had much time to actually do anything more than that.

Burt offers some real nice features with his kit...or should I say extras. I will keep everyone posted on what happens and what kit I end up getting.

Yes I did ... dropped off my 2nd bike to be ghetto'd by Dennis. Here's the chart from my first one (modified stg 1 kit)that he did for me last fall and I'm getting his Stg 2 Super Street kit on my 2nd bike. I'll post up when it is done.

 

[MN72Busa]

Nice Chart!

After looking at your chart, it looks like Torque starts to kick in around 4000 rpm, and keeps climbing to 7000 rpm...but how is the torque under 4K ? And the HP begins to climb nicely between 4k and 6k, but again, how is performance below 4K?

Did you run a spacer on the modified stage 1, and or intercooler? And what about the FMU? Was performance as good or better than stock below 4K rpm? Ive heard a few guys say a Turbo Stage 1 can be a dog in the lower rpm's.....and was curious to your input since you are living with the beast on a day to day basis.

 

[Col_Mustard]

Whats a Zadnitsu??

 

[clrwtrbusa]

Valium, Congrats on the choice to turbo.

I have had nothing but good luck with mine since way back when I started with the Velocity stage 1 and now with the modified stage 2 setup. The main thing I have found about the turbo bikes is every once in a while, do a check to make sure all hoses, vacuum lines and stuff are still tight. Like anything else, some tend to loosen a little and it will drive ya nuts. Mine is a daily driver, sees an occasional 1/8 mile strip run and makes 6 trips up to Deals Gap each year, with no problems at all.

 

[Jailer]

If I had to guess just looking sageronin's chart I would say stg1 plus:

spacer
intercooler
12lb spring
fuel system mods (5th injector, bigger injectors, or secondaries)

How close am I?

As far as how they run down low depends on how close your tuning is and whether or not your running stock or lowered compression. I've had both so I'll share my experience.

With stock compression and a really good low speed tune, drivability will be near stock. I say near stock because you will lose the small amount of added tq down low from the flapper in the stock airbox that you deep six when you install the turbo. It still accelerates nicely and has sharp throttle resonse like a stock bike though. With lowered compression it is slower to rev off boost from the tq loss due to lowered compression. It still runs decent from being a large displacement motor, but lacks the response and snap of the stock compression bike. The payoff though is the ability to safely run more boost for more power and a harder hit when the turbo comes on boost.

Think of it like this. Stock compression and lower boost (like a stg1) still runs sharp off bost and when it comes on it is a nice controlled rush of power. It can actually be decieving how quickly you are building speed because the power comes on very smoothly. Lowered compression and more boost is a little lazy down low until the boost comes on, but when it does it comes on strong and feels like you've been propelled from a slingshot. Very cool and very addictive but depnding on what type of riding you do can be a bit more of a chalenge to ride. Try 12lbs of boost with stock gearing and a stock wheelbase at the dragstrip and you will know what I mean by a challenge.

It all depends on what you are looking for and how much you can afford.

 

[MN72Busa]

If I had to guess just looking sageronin's chart I would say stg1 plus:

spacer
intercooler
12lb spring
fuel system mods (5th injector, bigger injectors, or secondaries)

How close am I?

As far as how they run down low depends on how close your tuning is and whether or not your running stock or lowered compression. I've had both so I'll share my experience.

With stock compression and a really good low speed tune, drivability will be near stock. I say near stock because you will lose the small amount of added tq down low from the flapper in the stock airbox that you deep six when you install the turbo. It still accelerates nicely and has sharp throttle resonse like a stock bike though. With lowered compression it is slower to rev off boost from the tq loss due to lowered compression. It still runs decent from being a large displacement motor, but lacks the response and snap of the stock compression bike. The payoff though is the ability to safely run more boost for more power and a harder hit when the turbo comes on boost.

Think of it like this. Stock compression and lower boost (like a stg1) still runs sharp off bost and when it comes on it is a nice controlled rush of power. It can actually be decieving how quickly you are building speed because the power comes on very smoothly. Lowered compression and more boost is a little lazy down low until the boost comes on, but when it does it comes on strong and feels like you've been propelled from a slingshot. Very cool and very addictive but depnding on what type of riding you do can be a bit more of a chalenge to ride. Try 12lbs of boost with stock gearing and a stock wheelbase at the dragstrip and you will know what I mean by a challenge.

It all depends on what you are looking for and how much you can afford.

Man...that is some great input, and really appreciate you taking your time to share your viewpoints!

Don't want to spend over $7,500 complete at this time....can upgrade next year.

Looking for reliability - this is the key thing for me. It looks like running no spacer, but adding an intercooler and modding the Fuel system is the way to go for me. Wont be making aby runs at the drag strip, and will be running stock swing-arm, however Im +1 in the rear right now, so that might have to be changed up, and obviously my 17/42 setup I run now might have to change.

Im looking for a nice boost of power when on the Hwy. I don't wan to have any less torque than I have right now but Since Im running a modded airbox with no flapper, Im use to a little less torque over stock, but I feel the benefit of extra HP when I like to go into the upper RPM's with the system I have now.

Currently ruinning aroun 171 rwhp right now ( not sure what Im running with the addition of Web Cams I recently added), so dont want to add a turbo and get less performance for all that cash on the lower end of the rpm spectrum. If I can retain or add just a little torque at under 4500 rpm from stock, I would be happy, and know when I hit the upper rpm's the turbo will do its thing when I call on it.

I dont want to end up in a engine melt-down situation when I do a WOT run for 45 to 90 seconds. The reason for doing the turbo in the first place.

 

[clrwtrbusa]

Valium, You can keep the 17/42 's on there. I am running 16/43's unless I want to do speed runs, then I change them out. But that gearing will be a blast

 

[MN72Busa]

Valium, Congrats on the choice to turbo.

I have had nothing but good luck with mine since way back when I started with the Velocity stage 1 and now with the modified stage 2 setup. The main thing I have found about the turbo bikes is every once in a while, do a check to make sure all hoses, vacuum lines and stuff are still tight. Like anything else, some tend to loosen a little and it will drive ya nuts. Mine is a daily driver, sees an occasional 1/8 mile strip run and makes 6 trips up to Deals Gap each year, with no problems at all.

Man, you have no clue what your bike has done to my pocket-book...lol

From the first time I came to this site, and seen your bike, I knew the route I wanted to take...I just never knew how much the Carbon Fiber bug would hit me.

In your opinion, what type of Mechanical experience does a person need to be able to live with a Turbo bike, and keep things working as they should? I've been told "Tinkering" is not a good thing with Turbo bike, and people get into trouble when they start to do this. I'm fine with the idea of leaving the bike as it is once comming home from the Tuner's, and have no issues with checking hoses's...but is it really just that simple...Just leave it alone and ride?

And do you find that Humidity and heat effect a turbo bike, as far as hot summer months? And, any Newbie tips that you may have, or other advice that you think is important to know as a first time turbo owner (meaning me)?

1 last thing...Dyno Jet wide band commander or LM-1 unit?

 

[STUNNAH]

Haven't read all the post but if you do the trubo you need to lower the compression with this intial install that solve a major issue down the road if you decide to increase the boost...I'm sure that Burt has discussed this with you...Turbo's are a funny animal for those of us that have no mechanical skills but I believe that Burt and Dennis are the tops of customer service and will go beyond the norm to make sure you have the best support...

 

[MN72Busa]

Haven't read all the post but if you do the trubo you need to lower the compression with this intial install that solve a major issue down the road if you decide to increase the boost...I'm sure that Burt has discussed this with you...Turbo's are a funny animal for those of us that have no mechanical skills but I believe that Burt and Dennis are the tops of customer service and will go beyond the norm to make sure you have the best support...

I don't think I plan on running a spacer. Instead I'm thinking to go with an Intercooler and upgrade the Fuel system on a Stage 1 setup.

As far as Mechanical Skills, Im not nearly as skilled as some of you out there, but Im just about able to take on any project as long as I take my time, have the right tools, and have good people to talk to when I have questions. Im not a guy that likes to guess at things, and pretty anal about doing things the right way...even if it takes me 3 times longer to do than the average person.

 

[STUNNAH]

Haven't read all the post but if you do the trubo you need to lower the compression with this intial install that solve a major issue down the road if you decide to increase the boost...I'm sure that Burt has discussed this with you...Turbo's are a funny animal for those of us that have no mechanical skills but I believe that Burt and Dennis are the tops of customer service and will go beyond the norm to make sure you have the best support...

I don't think I plan on running a spacer. Instead I'm thinking to go with an Intercooler and upgrade the Fuel system on a Stage 1 setup.

As far as Mechanical Skills, Im not nearly as skilled as some of you out there, but Im just about able to take on any project as long as I take my time, have the right tools, and have good people to talk to when I have questions. Im not a guy that likes to guess at things, and pretty anal about doing things the right way...even if it takes me 3 times longer to do than the average person.

As I stated before I'm sure that you have discussed this indepth with Burt but from everyting I've ever read and that was spoken to me that in order to run high boost setting the compression must be lowered...Intercooled is just a replacement for water injection and they protect against detonation...I didn't do my install but if you can take the header off you can do the install...

 

[Jailer]

I don't think I plan on running a spacer. Instead I'm thinking to go with an Intercooler and upgrade the Fuel system on a Stage 1 setup.

As far as Mechanical Skills, Im not nearly as skilled as some of you out there, but Im just about able to take on any project as long as I take my time, have the right tools, and have good people to talk to when I have questions. Im not a guy that likes to guess at things, and pretty anal about doing things the right way...even if it takes me 3 times longer to do than the average person.

Wow aside from the mechanical ability you sound a lot like me. Too much like me, it's kinda scary.

I took my time with this install. How much time? How bout a month. That's right 1 month. Had a couple down times waiting on parts because I did a few things a little different that I wanted to do, but mainly I just took my sweet ass time working very methodically to make sure everything was perfect before I moved on the the next. The benefit is a bike that fired instantly once it was buttoned up with not one single drip, leak, seep or other gremlin to take care of. If you are confortable with say changing an exhaust or removing the airbox, then you can handle a stg1 install no problem. The biggest thing is finding someone with drill bits large enough to drill the holes for the fuel sump mod and oil return in the oil pan. Those are the only 2 things I didn't have tools for in my garage and trust me it's no shop, just a small garage with a few tools.

As far as wideband goes, I just got done doing a LOT of reading about wideband 02 sensors and data logging. My opinion, go with the LM1. It's cheaper, expandable, more flexible, and from what I've read the software is more user friendly. I'm still waiting on my RPM converter so I can't give you first hand experience, but check back with me in about a week and I can.

I'm sure Burt can offer upgrades in the future if the turbo bug bites you hard and I know Motorhead can. You'll have to check with Burt on that one. If I were you, I'd start with a stg1 stock compression and if money allows an intercooler. That should be enough to run around 8lbs of boost very safely on pump gas without worries and would put you in the 260 to 280 HP range. If you can swing it add secondaries and you can easily add a spacer at a later date and run more boost without having to worry about running your fuel injectors at max duty cycle and you'll have a more consistant fuel pressure to your main injectors. If the secondaries are not an option due to cost, than the FMU will work fine.

Oh and ditch the web cams and go back to stock cams. The tuning headaches you'll have with the webs is not worth it and they can actually rob you of some power. You don't need bigger cams with a small turbo like this, the turbo will cram all the air you need in the cylinders without the need for bigger cams.

 

[suzuki4life]

If I had to guess just looking sageronin's chart I would say stg1 plus:

spacer
intercooler
12lb spring
fuel system mods (5th injector, bigger injectors, or secondaries)

How close am I?  

12lbs? 12 lbs will get you about 300hp. More like 20ish lbs to get 388.

and he also needed at very least a set of good rods.

 

[Jailer]

Chart says 308 that's why I said 12lbs.

And your right about the rods. If you want to push things over 330 to 340 HP then you need rods and pistons.

 

[suzuki4life]

My input on any kit.

intercooling versus whatever.

If it is a street bike....I'd personally go with water injection if I had to do it all over again. Why? Because the intercooler is an added expense and risk that IMHO is unneeded for street usage.

300hp can be used on the street. I have been told that 400-450 is well beyond useful at all because of how you need to pick and choose when you can possibly use it. For that reason alone I try to sway people away from believing they need 400+ hp. There are MANY options in getting 300-320 hp which accomplishes many goals.
1. it maxes out your stock engine's capabilities. YES if you run straight race gas you can run 300hp through an entirely stock engine. It has been proven and done. (YES EVEN WITH STOCK INJECTORS!!!)
2. very much added expense. Difference between safe and building a motor can range simply by 70-80 hp. Remember....$1000 for rods, $500 for pistons etc etc etc...it adds up quick. My question to anyone is...if you feel the added expense is worth it for 70-80 hp....why stop there? A 500 hp kit is basically the same as a 400hp kit except a larger turbo. Whether or not they want to admit it...they cost the same to build if they want them to.



If I am building a "practical" turbo bike...

I would look in a hybred down sized kit much like a Velcoity race kit IMHO.

Qualities I'd want:
external wastegate
standalone fuel controller
fuel system which replaces the OEM injectors NOT 5th injectors, piggybacks or secondaries.
A turbo which can flow a max 400hp.
water injection OR if your budget allows...water to air intercooling.