rear brake pad installation

gurrera

gurrera

Registered
I am going to replace my rear brake pads and rotor.

How do I know if I have the spring on the right way?

Does any one have pictures of how the spring goes back in?

thank you Gurrera
 
Oh man its such a hard thing to do... I dont think you should try it... Very complicated...
 
Pain in the neck. Mirror, flashlight, soft mat for your knees, and protective goggles are your friends. Plus lots of patience.

I replaced mine while the caliper was out for rebuilding. Maybe if you take the caliper off it will be easier.
 
Give me a minute to pull up the drawing. It is definitely easier to take the caliper loose from the hanger. DON'T take the line off..........
 
The first time I tried. I look really hard at it before I took it off but could not really see, so I said " I will pull this out and..." the entire brake whim spring fell on Tue ground. Noooooo. I used the out line on the old pad and looked online at the manual to see how the spring went on. Not as hard as it looks just be patient.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
Sam, don't listen to these guys, it's super-simple. Coulda swore I've shot pics of the swap, but ah well. Here's from memory. Make sure you wear some nitrile/surgical gloves (available at any auto parts store). Once you do this a couple times takes me about 10-15 minutes to swap them out.

1) Two bolts on the brake caliper hanger. Take those out.

2) On the brake bar, there's one more. Take that out too. Put all three bolts back in their original holes.

3) Now you can hold the rear caliper in your palm. It's upside down.

4) Turn it over & you'll see a black plastic dust cap. Gently squeeze it and it will pop right out.

5) Now you can see two pins that run through the caliper & pads. There are tiny cotter pins on the ends.

6) Before you take the pads out, you should separate the pistons. Ideally, you should get them recessed back completely inside the caliper. Lots of hillbilly ways to do this.
-take a large needle-nose pliers, insert it between your OLD pads and twist.
-use a small wood working clamp to compress the pistons
-use a very large pliers & simply squeeze them back in place.
You shouldn't have to fight them. Some gentle pressure, and they'll move.

7) Gently take the cotter pins out with a needle nose pliers. Don't loose these. Put them down on a white paper towel.

6) The pads can float back and forth over the pins. There are two spring thingys that attach to the tops of the pads. Springs as in spring-loaded. Note which side the springs are on and how they attach to the pad.

Put your thumbs over the tops of the pads and slowly pull the pins out with a needlenose one at a time. You'll release the two springs and set those aside. There also also backing plates on the backs of the pads. They are left and right.

7) When you disassemble- Disassemble in order, and put the pieces down on your white paper towel in order as you take them off.

8) Slide the second pin out and the pads will drop out the bottom of the caliper. Still holding the caliper in your palm, take your new pads and insert the new set right back up into the caliper. Don't forget to swap over the the backing plates.
 
Last edited:
Chapter II.

9) Once you've slid in the new pads, got the backing plates on correctly, then slid one of the pins in...

10) Take one of the springs and slide them onto the tops of the brake pads. The springs are interchangeable Left and Right.

You can also do this before you slide in the first pin. The opposite side of the spring will stick up a little. Take the second pin and start sliding that in. You'll need to line it all up & push the springs down just a bit to get them under the pin.

11) Now that you got both pins in, put the cotter pins back in. Clip on the dust cap and done.

12) If you forgot to separate the pistons before you did the reassembly, you'll likely notice this about now. The newly loaded caliper should just slide right onto your rotor. Attach the two hanger bolts and the brake bar bolt. Make sure to use loctite on all your bolts during reassembly.

You mentioned the swapping the rear rotor, Just take the rear tire off like you normally would and unbolt. Slap on the new on and bolt it on. Don't forget the loctite.

If you need Brake Pads, we have them in stock. :cheerleader:

Galfer Brake Pads: Race, HH Sintered, Organic, Semi-Metallic | PashnitMoto

:easy:
 
pashnit said:
Sam, don't listen to these guys, it's super-simple. Coulda swore I've shot pics of the swap, but ah well. Here's from memory. Make sure you wear some nitrile/surgical gloves (available at any auto parts store). Once you do this a couple times takes me about 10-15 minutes to swap them out.

1) Two bolts on the brake caliper hanger. Take those out.

2) On the brake bar, there's one more. Take that out too. Put all three bolts back in their original holes.

3) Now you can hold the rear caliper in your palm. It's upside down.

4) Turn it over & you'll see a black plastic dust cap. Gently squeeze it and it will pop right out.

5) Now you can see two pins that run through the caliper & pads. There are tiny cotter pins on the ends.

6) Before you take the pads out, you should separate the pistons. Ideally, you should get them recessed back completely inside the caliper. Lots of hillbilly ways to do this.
-take a large needle-nose pliers, insert it between your OLD pads and twist.
-use a small wood working clamp to compress the pistons
-use a very large pliers & simply squeeze them back in place.
You shouldn't have to fight them. Some gentle pressure, and they'll move.

7) Gently take the cotter pins out with a needle nose pliers. Don't loose these. Put them down on a white paper towel.

6) The pads can float back and forth over the pins. There are two spring thingys that attach to the tops of the pads. Springs as in spring-loaded. Note which side the springs are on and how they attach to the pad.

Put your thumbs over the tops of the pads and slowly pull the pins out with a needlenose one at a time. You'll release the two springs and set those aside. There also also backing plates on the backs of the pads. They are left and right.

7) When you disassemble- Disassemble in order, and put the pieces down on your white paper towel in order as you take them off.

8) Slide the second pin out and the pads will drop out the bottom of the caliper. Still holding the caliper in your palm, take your new pads and insert the new set right back up into the caliper. Don't forget to swap over the the backing plates.
Click to expand...

I'd take the old pads out, then clean around the pistons before you push them back in so as not to drive dirt pass the seals. The you can use the old pads to push the pistons back in.

cheers
ken
 
Wow your making this way harder than it needs to be if you ask me. It should be pretty straight forward. I mean come on its a break caliper. Not an engine rebuild
Posted via Mobile Device
 
Thanks for all the help.

But I still don't know how the sprig goes.???

Like A or B?

Thanks
A HPIM5417 [50%].jpg

B HPIM5418 [50%].jpg

HPIM5417 [50%].jpg


HPIM5418 [50%].jpg
 
pashnit said:
Sam, don't listen to these guys, it's super-simple. Coulda swore I've shot pics of the swap, but ah well. Here's from memory. Make sure you wear some nitrile/surgical gloves (available at any auto parts store). Once you do this a couple times takes me about 10-15 minutes to swap them out.

1) Two bolts on the brake caliper hanger. Take those out.

2) On the brake bar, there's one more. Take that out too. Put all three bolts back in their original holes.

3) Now you can hold the rear caliper in your palm. It's upside down.

4) Turn it over & you'll see a black plastic dust cap. Gently squeeze it and it will pop right out.

5) Now you can see two pins that run through the caliper & pads. There are tiny cotter pins on the ends.

6) Before you take the pads out, you should separate the pistons. Ideally, you should get them recessed back completely inside the caliper. Lots of hillbilly ways to do this.
-take a large needle-nose pliers, insert it between your OLD pads and twist.
-use a small wood working clamp to compress the pistons
-use a very large pliers & simply squeeze them back in place.
You shouldn't have to fight them. Some gentle pressure, and they'll move.

7) Gently take the cotter pins out with a needle nose pliers. Don't loose these. Put them down on a white paper towel.

6) The pads can float back and forth over the pins. There are two spring thingys that attach to the tops of the pads. Springs as in spring-loaded. Note which side the springs are on and how they attach to the pad.

Put your thumbs over the tops of the pads and slowly pull the pins out with a needlenose one at a time. You'll release the two springs and set those aside. There also also backing plates on the backs of the pads. They are left and right.

7) When you disassemble- Disassemble in order, and put the pieces down on your white paper towel in order as you take them off.

8) Slide the second pin out and the pads will drop out the bottom of the caliper. Still holding the caliper in your palm, take your new pads and insert the new set right back up into the caliper. Don't forget to swap over the the backing plates.
Click to expand...


Thank you for your comment. I cannot believe the lame comments that many put. It's like they are trying to hide something. This isn't hard at all, especially for your insight to how the pins work. Just a little verification was all I was looking for and you did that.

Every vehicle is different. At least, everyone I have worked on. I've been riding for 48 years, driving for 53, working on both bikes and cars for 46.

I don't have time for immature comments. So, thank you very much.
 
I read everything that is said here. But almost never comment. I will apologize for this reply as I make it. Normally I would just smile and delete this question. Finished the GSXR 1000 I drag race over the weekend. Came in from the garage a few minutes ago. Just finished putting rear brake pads on my 04 Busa. Did it with the caliper still in place. Took about 15 minutes... Sipping JD Honey all afternoon. Or I am sure I would not say what I am about to say... If you want to change your own pads. Either pay attention how things come apart. Or buy a service manual like most everyone else here did.... Not much more that can be said. Again I am sorry for being rude. Probably said more then I should have already. And I am sure I will hear about it. But questions like this show up here often. And I guess I think either pay attention and learn. Or bring it to a dealer... Like I said. Sipping JD all afternoon. Makes me be a little more honest then usual...
 
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