Greeting to the Busa gurus! I'm trying to help a friend out. He just purchased a 2013 Busa with 1.5k miles. He thought it was a good deal until he realized the FI light on the dash with code C24 & C27 when ever he revs pass 7k RPM. I have done the searches many times over now on the forums. The first basic thing I did was changed spark plugs, then I swapped coil packs to another cylinders. Problem still exists code didn't jump to another cylinder. I then checked the cam timing which looks right to me. So I put everything back and start checking the crank sensor. Then I found out that a rat ate a few wires at the crank sensor side. So I repaired all the chewed up wires. Still no good. Then I check the resistance at the crank sensor. When the engine is warm the resistance is over 280ohms. So I replaced it and still no good. So I'm running out of ideas. Maybe the timing is no good so I need your help to double check the timing. And see if I made a mistake. The intake cam is pin is 15th from the exhaust cam timing mark. Thanks again for your help!
Return of the infamous FI C24 & C27 codes
- Thread starter KSpeed888
- Start date
Just an fyi, there should be no reason for the timing to have changed based on the timing chain itself, especially with such low miles.
The chain would have to have been previoisly set incorrectly(which there is no reason for anyone to do), and if the chain jumped, it wouldn't just skip a tooth, you would have catstrophic engine failure/pistons hitting valves.
The chain would have to have been previoisly set incorrectly(which there is no reason for anyone to do), and if the chain jumped, it wouldn't just skip a tooth, you would have catstrophic engine failure/pistons hitting valves.
Not revving past 7k rpm is also classic fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel regulator failure, and with clogged fuel injectors, as in gummed up from sitting.
Being that the bike is around 12 years old, with only 1500 miles, I would definately be looking at the fuel system, as you could very well be having multiple issues at once.
Being that the bike is around 12 years old, with only 1500 miles, I would definately be looking at the fuel system, as you could very well be having multiple issues at once.
Yes, for certain....fuel system would be the first place I'd be looking.
Pump wont pull coil codes
This is the first thing I thought of as soon as I read that you’d found and repaired chewed wires… I would think it’s just about a foregone conclusion the rats have had a feed elsewhere on your wiring harness.
Do a continuity test between the coil wires at the connector on the coils, thru to the corresponding wires at the ECM connector plug.
That's what I was thinking too. That's why I haven't go into the fuel pump.
I will do that. It just most of the forums with those two codes were caused by incorrect timing. So I kinda jumped to that conclusion. But I will check each coil wires.
I don't doubt more could be chewed up...but chewed up is more proof that a 12 year old 1500 mile bike sat for alot of it's life.
Old gas will cause you all types of problems too.
Old gas will cause you all types of problems too.
Jumping to conclusions is one of the worst things to do with diagnosis of faults…
The clue here was the chewed wiring.
I hope you get it sorted out.
I don't disagree with this statement at all, but I know of no wiring fault that will let the bike run good to 7k rpm, then suddenly stop pulling.
The fuel system is worth a look, all things considered.
You’re right Marty, I was working on the fault codes to come up with my thoughts re chewed wiring.
As far as the 7k thing goes, yes the fuel delivery is in question. Needs to be checked.
7000, isn't that when the secondary injectors are supposed to kick in? As for the low miles, perhaps the bike had the issue way back and that's why the owner stopped riding it
7000, isn't that when the secondary injectors are supposed to kick in? As for the low miles, perhaps the bike had the issue way back and that's why the owner stopped riding it
Possibly, but I thought it was 8k, either way, my money is on repaired wiring, and now a gummed up fuel system.
Hey guys.. I know it's been a while. I came across something. But need you guys to verify. I'm looking at the Gen 2 Hayabusa wiring schematic. It shows that the crank position sensor green wire goes into the the blue wire body side. And the blue color sensor goes into green. Can anyone confirm that? If that is true then the my pins are switched. A switched the wires. And it seems to be ok no lights on at this time. But if anyone can take a pic of the body harness side of the crank position sensor that will be great.
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