Service Bulletin - Hayabusa/B King

Well I brought mine back to the dealership after seeing this post because I thought mine fell within the vin# range. Apparently it didn't; if you look at the TSB under Specifications, there's E-03 and E-33. Well I found out that the E-33 which I thought mine fell within is actually the California model and E-03 is for everyone else and mine is beyond that range.:thumbsup:
 
a have noticed a light ticking noise similar to solid lifters or injectors. happens below 3000RPM. dont notice it at idle though. anyone with similar noises?
 
Busacure said:
a have noticed a light ticking noise similar to solid lifters or injectors. happens below 3000RPM. dont notice it at idle though. anyone with similar noises?
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yup, i have the same noise! my bike is at 3200 miles and running strong so far.
 
Folks called the local dealership here and he set up the appointment for this past Friday after I gave him my VIN the phone. Didn't get a chance to ride until today though but I can say it's a lot quieter now and I had mind done at 520 miles. Believe it or not the dealership I got the bike from keep tellin me that it wasn't for 09 Busa only the 08 model. Which actually made me want to just slap the hell out of him for even looking me in my face with that BS. Glad Suzuki did put this out in the end it's worth the time even if for a DIY job. So I must say thanks to the Org and my boy Wat1000 for the info on it cause hell would of never known about this at all.
 
BusaBlue said:
Went to the dealer and picked up a gasket and thread locker. Note that the TSB calls for strongest thread locker, 1303. Put bike on side stan ( no loss of oil ). Remove side fairing, remove clutch cover bolts and cover. I did two bolts at a time (opposites) to make seting up the torque wrench easier. Cleaned all threads with contact cleaner including the threads in the hub. Used 1303 on stud threads, one drop of blue locktight on spring retainer bolts. Torque and reassemble and you are set to go! :thumbsup:

My bolts were OK but now I have peace of mind knowing the TSB has been done.
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Hey you are thread locking both the shoulder bolt (spring retainer bolt) and then actual bolt. The TSB is claiming which of the two were backing out?? TIA
 
Last edited:
valkyriemc said:
Hey you are thread locking both the shoulder bolt (spring retainer bolt) and then actual bolt. The TSB is claiming which of the two were backing out?? TIA
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TSB calls for thread locker on the stud. I just used one drop of blue ( low strength) on the spring retainer bolt ( small bolt) as extra insurance. It's the stud that will back out. The stud needs the high strength thread locker.
 
says E-03 OR E-33 ,, WHAT IS THAT
^
my vin fall in the E-33 ^ - 92103526- so i guess mine needs done ?
^
just dont know about the ^
 
lika1 said:
Well I brought mine back to the dealership after seeing this post because I thought mine fell within the vin# range. Apparently it didn't; if you look at the TSB under Specifications, there's E-03 and E-33. Well I found out that the E-33 which I thought mine fell within is actually the California model and E-03 is for everyone else and mine is beyond that range.:thumbsup:
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cool that answers my question , i thougt mine fell in the E-33 range too but i live in tx and well nothing is restricted in tx , so i am good !
 
Crap...I hear this ticking all of the time until the bike warms up and I can rev it a few times...my one year warranty was up in August....bastages!!! I wonder how much this will cost me?
 
I just had my recall done at Destination Powersports near Springfield, MO. It cost me 1/2 hour of drive time and 1.5 hours of walking around their showroom. It is a RECALL so it should cost you nothing.
 
Is there a site we can go to and see if my motorcycle has had the dealer complete this yet? I bought my bike used and it may have already been done, but would like to make sure it has while it is still under warranty.
 
I have had this issue twice after running a short time on the dyno, for reasons I can't explain...

I run a B-King in a circuit car and it had probably run for four or five hours on track with no issues. After a few power runs on the dyno I got the ticking noise and my clutch cover bolts had come loose and were rubbing on the casting ribs inside the cover. Just a coincidence?....

I tightened them up and went racing again. I did maybe another ten hours racing with no issues. However, I swapped my ECU and went back on the dyno and after maybe an hour it started making the noise again. This time it was the posts that the cover bolts screw into that had come loose. I locktited them and it's been fine since.... but then it's not been back on the dyno yet....
 
08BusaKY said:
I took my bike in to the dealer today. I had an appointment at 10am and they did not start work on my bike until 11:30 but it was done at 1pm and they offered me my next oil change for free for waiting.

They do put new oil in for this job. It was easier to let them do it. I did my 600 mile service myself about 500 miles ago.
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What did they charge ya?
 
the TSB is easy to do and good insurance as mentioned above. i noticed a significant difference in my shifting.
 
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