Shorten the wheel base
- Thread starter him
- Start date
some parts are almost interchangeable. I am sure some of the others will respond to you tomorrow on that. Most of the regulars aren't surfing that much on the weekends, out riding.
If I see that link I will let you know. He had a whole list of things that he did to the bike, but it all added up to about 100 lbs... no sh!t.
The rims and exhaust were big ticket items, especially if you get the lightest rims out there. You also did a lot of minor stuff like talking everything off that didn't need to be on it...
If I see that link I will let you know. He had a whole list of things that he did to the bike, but it all added up to about 100 lbs... no sh!t.
The rims and exhaust were big ticket items, especially if you get the lightest rims out there. You also did a lot of minor stuff like talking everything off that didn't need to be on it...
o yea... one last thing. The lighter you get the busa, the more UNSTABLE it is going to be 180+ if you know what I mean. THe busa with all of its wait feels like a freight train pulling you to 184, where my old 750 felt like I was going to lift off at 135.
Cloud
Cloud
that is the reason because at 900 bucks a piece i can get the exhaust way before i save up to get the wheels. Do u know of anywhere i can get them cheaper. Checked all the sites in sports rider magazine becasue they had a wheel comparision. and i have been on ebay and parts411.com too.
No luck. Figured id get the exhaust becaue i probably wont try my luck at the track till sometime next summer when i get some leather pants.
u lucked out im bidding on some d&D exhasut on ebay now should be about 400 bucks full system. I've learned from my expierence anyone can ride strait in a line but it takes a real man to hit some corners. I even looked at the tires of the people i ride with. They have like a whole inch of tire they dont use and i plan on and am currently using all my tire. Theres like an 8th of an inch i have to get to though
ralnsplder
Registered
Also bad point about a shorter arm, the shorter the wheel base the more the front wheel will come up. kinda same with wheels. I agree with the less spinning mass, but it is also taking weight off the front, If you do the exhaust you will take weight off of everywhere. The busa can do corners, but if that is what you are really into, you should have went with the gsxr 1k. it is already lighter and designed for corners. If you are dead set on losing weight and have lots of $$, just go everything carbon fiber. DO NOT get carbon fiber wheels unless you are road RACE ready as a rider.
I did shorten the wheel base of the busa by raising the rear. I used dog bones from an SV 650 that I got from a member here and it put it up about 1.5" turn in was noticeably quicker and it forced more weight forward on the front end. That will require some fork work if your seriously on it. Also she had a habit of lifting the front wheel more on exit which is fine but you will need more than the stock steering damper to help out. Hope this helps.
Marc
Marc
Stealth_Busa
Registered
With 30+ replies this may have been alreadly stated.
I think that what you really want is quicker response? Right?
So....
Go up 2 on the rear sprocket, this will shorten the wheelbase.
Change to a 180 rear tire.
Lower the front forks in the triple tree by .5 inch.
Stealth
I think that what you really want is quicker response? Right?
So....
Go up 2 on the rear sprocket, this will shorten the wheelbase.
Change to a 180 rear tire.
Lower the front forks in the triple tree by .5 inch.
Stealth
Were factory SVbones used? Did the SV bones make it look funny? What did u mean about more than a stock damper, cause i really havent seen any aftermarket dampers
ralnsplder
Registered
Shealth, he isn't wanting better response, he is wanting to do corners better. He wants bike to transition from left corner to right corner faster, and right to left.
Stealth_Busa
Registered
ralnsplder,
I normally don't do this, but today I feel compelled.
Quicker response = better handling, to a point. The Busa is just plain heavy, and will not have the flickability of a 1000 or 600 due to the weight disadvantage.
By Lowering the front end, going to a 180 tire, and two up on the rear sprocket, he will improve the responsiviness of the Busa. This will allow for a measure of improved handling.
The road to better handling is by improving the steering response, and losing some weight if possible.
Stealth
I think the wheels would make the biggest difference in left to right flickability. Dropping 10-15 pounds on the exhaust would help as well though. The guy that dropped 100 pounds off the busa also spent a ton of money on it as well.
ralnsplder
Registered
Yea sorry stealth. when you said better responce, I was takeing at you meant with power not handeling. I just seen the Up 2 teeth in the back,but for some reason the part about it shortening the wheelbase went out the door. I've heard of raising the back to get better responce, but not lowering the front. That is new to me.
MYRUSTYBUSA
Registered
I tink I am looking for the same thing you are. I want to corner better and faster. A I get to feeling like a motor home going through the corners. I got the power with the full ti arata pipe at 9.8 lbs compared with the 40 lb stock system. Rhe arata is $1000 at factorypro.com. Already feel the difference in power. First time out to the road I noticed that the bike droped like a rock into the turns, I wasn't ready for the change so I hadn't changed my body position.
I am still try to get better cornering. My idea is to get the weight down so that Im not pushing through the turns. I ride on a very tight turn constant direction changes. The bike corners really well except for the weight in the turn and that flicking thing. Fliking can be achieved with some brute force.
I plan to continue loosing weight. Me and the bike. For the bike I am getting the BST carbon fiber wheels in a couple of weeks. Very expensive at $4100. I will loose 30 more lbs. I will get less gravitatinal weight, more effective hourse power, and less gyroscopic forces. The gyro effect is what resists the flicking.
The next thing I plan to do is the carbon fiber Gas tank for anouther 10 lbs give or take. More flick. $1000
I am trying to find the best solution for the swing arm. I have not found anyone willing to build a CF swing Arm for the BUSA. Carbo Tek does build a swing arm and frame from CF but they are ducati specific and cost $4000 & $13000. I found some leads on custom Al and Ti builders and try them when I get the time next year.
I too have considered the shortening of the swing arm. If you do a search for RAD Busa built by Rad ?Geaves/Graves? he had built a busa for formula extreme racing. He shortened the swing arm 2.5 inches and raised the rear. He was happy with the changes. I have a feeling that some of these changes are going to affect the high speed crusing but it wont be worse than anything Ive rode in the 80's.
I lost 10lbs taking off the reflectors, emmisions, swap the rear sets, horn, and a few other things I can't remember.
I also plan to get the CF carbo tek body work. $1000. I dont know how much weight I will loose here. maybe 5 lbs. Some say that the stock body work weighs 20 lbs. I weight them and I get more like 12 or 13 lbs.
There is a lot of weight hanging on that front end. I might get a race upper fairing frame. Let me know if you have any sources for parts.
I am also curious how much weight I will lose if I change to Ti nuts and bolts. Maybe 5 to 10 lb. for around $1500.
I am still try to get better cornering. My idea is to get the weight down so that Im not pushing through the turns. I ride on a very tight turn constant direction changes. The bike corners really well except for the weight in the turn and that flicking thing. Fliking can be achieved with some brute force.
I plan to continue loosing weight. Me and the bike. For the bike I am getting the BST carbon fiber wheels in a couple of weeks. Very expensive at $4100. I will loose 30 more lbs. I will get less gravitatinal weight, more effective hourse power, and less gyroscopic forces. The gyro effect is what resists the flicking.
The next thing I plan to do is the carbon fiber Gas tank for anouther 10 lbs give or take. More flick. $1000
I am trying to find the best solution for the swing arm. I have not found anyone willing to build a CF swing Arm for the BUSA. Carbo Tek does build a swing arm and frame from CF but they are ducati specific and cost $4000 & $13000. I found some leads on custom Al and Ti builders and try them when I get the time next year.
I too have considered the shortening of the swing arm. If you do a search for RAD Busa built by Rad ?Geaves/Graves? he had built a busa for formula extreme racing. He shortened the swing arm 2.5 inches and raised the rear. He was happy with the changes. I have a feeling that some of these changes are going to affect the high speed crusing but it wont be worse than anything Ive rode in the 80's.
I lost 10lbs taking off the reflectors, emmisions, swap the rear sets, horn, and a few other things I can't remember.
I also plan to get the CF carbo tek body work. $1000. I dont know how much weight I will loose here. maybe 5 lbs. Some say that the stock body work weighs 20 lbs. I weight them and I get more like 12 or 13 lbs.
There is a lot of weight hanging on that front end. I might get a race upper fairing frame. Let me know if you have any sources for parts.
I am also curious how much weight I will lose if I change to Ti nuts and bolts. Maybe 5 to 10 lb. for around $1500.
MYRUSTYBUSA
Registered
PS Is that a 100 lbs? How there is some usful information there. I think that if you look into custom swing arm byilders you'll find what your looking for. Go to the International Motorcycle Show and check out the GP bikes. Those swing arms are pretty. Then ask them who makes them. I am still working on that one. I know the owner of european motor accessories has a custom swing arm and it looks nice and sounds lighter.
http://www.ema-usa.com/
http://www.ema-usa.com/
The low cost combo I have seen for improving a 'busa's cornering ability is:
1. Take two links out of the chain to move the rear wheel to the front of the axle slot
2. Raise the front forks 1/4 inch in the triple tree (requires either a special top corwn or a set of GenMar risers to enable the forks to be raised)
3. Go to a 180/55 profile rear tire.
I plan to do these mods over the winter. Hope this helps.
1. Take two links out of the chain to move the rear wheel to the front of the axle slot
2. Raise the front forks 1/4 inch in the triple tree (requires either a special top corwn or a set of GenMar risers to enable the forks to be raised)
3. Go to a 180/55 profile rear tire.
I plan to do these mods over the winter. Hope this helps.
