One of the keys to getting a sharp turn at slow speeds is an aggressive lean angle. With any given amount of handlebar angle the more aggressive lean angle will decrease the radius of the turn. At these lows speeds, it is more difficult to balance the motorcycle at this lean angle so we use a counterweight technique. Trying to explain that without pictures is about impossible. Take a look here on page 21
Link
One of the most common mistakes is looking down at the lines. When you look down I hope you see a pretty good place to put your foot because that is usually the next thing that happens. Keep you eyes level with the horizon and use your peripheral vision.
Next you want to be looking where you are going. Turn your head and look over your shoulder. Jus as you start the turn you’ll be looking back at the path prior to initiating the turn about 50’ back. In the case of the box that is usually used for testing, you’ll be looking back at the place where you made entry into the box.
The clutch. You have to used what is called the friction zone. Picture having the clutch pulled all the way in at a stop. With the brake on, slowly let out the clutch until you can feel the power apply to the wheel. That is one end of the zone. The other end is when you are pulling in the clutch and it just starts to slip. We want to keep it in this zone, we’ll be controlling speed by the throttle as well, but more importantly by the clutch. If you pull the clutch in too much you remove the power, and loose the momentum that is keeping you upright. Let it out too much and you speed is too fast to get the angle and radius needed to make the turn. This will also help smooth any accidental blips of the throttle you might input during the turn. Not only is it a balancing act to keep the motorcycle up, you have to balance the application of the clutch and throttle.
Many of you that have taken a MSF course have seen these techniques. However you were likely training on much smaller motorcycles than a Busa. Most pick up a couple of the tricks and are able to do it without fully using all of them. You’ll have to use them all and exaggerate them to make it work on a busa. (at least I do)
What makes the Busa so hard to do it is a combination of the steering head angle, the wheel base, and the limited amount handlebar turn angle.
So what I have to do,
1 Head turn, looking over the shoulder where you intent to go , maybe even a bit further.
2 Eyes level with the horizon
3 Counterweight. I have to move over hand about a ½ a cheek off the seat toward the to out side of the turn
4 Clutch control, in the friction zone never fully released, use it to smooth and inadvertent throttle input
5 Handlebar turn, within the first 15-30 degrees of the turn I have to turn bars against the stop.
6 Just prior to the start of the left turn I bob the bars slightly to the right, then to the left. This makes the bike lean inside a bit quicker.
7. Drag the rear brake slightly. I not sure if Nick Lenatcsh or Reg Pridmore wrote it, but I agree it makes the bike think it is going 2-4 mph faster than it really is.
Turning to the left seems to be easier for most. I feel I have better throttle control with my arm stretched out than pulled against me.
I have been told I have done it in under 19’so I’m betting it can be done on an even smaller radius. MSF and most states that use the u-turn for testing have a requirement on a large bike of 24’. On the smaller bikes, the MSF requires a 20’max. When I teach the Basic Rider course, I always demo it on my bike in the 20’. I used to be able to do it on a Road King in under 14’. Like I said before, the Busa has been one of the most difficult bikes for me to perform the maneuver. It takes quite a bit of practice. Remember to work yourself up to is slowly, it is pretty common to see someone drop a bike attempting the maneuver.
Don’t scratch your busa.
) Go rent a 250 from your local dealer.
