SMT LED's - The wait is over!

[Mikey D]

R1 + R2 + R3 ...=R(total) "Series"

       1        
1  +  1 +  1        =  R(total) "Parallel"
R1   R2    R3

I had to learn all that crap back in 1985, and it's still not any fun

You still remember that from 18 years ago?

That's awesome!

the recipricol of the sum of the reciprocals..

Scientific calculators make that soo much easier!

 

[Mikey D]

OK

I got them to work ath 14.5 volts on a regulated power supply. They still got hot so I am letting them burn in over night. If they are still lit tomorrow, I'm going for it!

 

[Mikey D]

4th try...

Ryth,
Here is my rickety drawing of the board, I know my credibility will go down a notch or two but here it is anyway.

Mikey

 

[Mikey D]

Here are the picts. Hope you can make them out. This was the 1st board, they have gotten more compact since this one.

 

[Mikey D]

Boy that looks bad.
Maybe this will be better?



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Reason for Edit: "Cause I can't type"|1069383383 -->

 

[Mikey D]

Last bad pict.

 

[Rhythm]

Good lookn out Mike ,I get the picture Mike , are you going to create you own board from scratch so that you can a get closer fitment when mounting the SMT's? Also did you check out the info I PM'd you ?

 

[Mikey D]

Good lookn out Mike ,I get the picture Mike , are you going to create you own board from scratch so that you can a get closer fitment when mounting the SMT's?   Also did you check out the info I PM'd you ?

I-firm-a-tiv on geting them closer together.  That shot is of the proto board.  The subsequent 1's I made are 1/2 the size.

I did check out the PM'ed info.  These are surplus LEDs. I talked with the supposed "tech" at the place (Electronics Goldmine) and he had no info other than, they ran on a 9V battery with a 36 ohm resistor.  The 9V does not put out very much current so the small resistor can handle it.

When confronted with all the current they could drink (ie. a power supply or a Hayabusa!)  They needed quite a larger resistor to drop the voltage so the current is in an appropriate range.  I've got them running at 14.5V (for safeties sake) with a 470 ohm resistor.  They are droping about 3.75V and using about 22mA.  Seems about right and they are still quite bright.  They will run up tot 60-70mA but get quite warm.

I was thinking about making them as small as possible and using a dab of sillly-cone sealant to afix them to the bike.  Alternately I was thinking of leaving a small tab on the board (with a hole?) so they could be either screwed or zip tied to the bike.  

I'd like to mount them to the frame not the fairing so the fairings could be removed with out unplugging anything.

What do you think about the mounting situation?

BTW - PM me your address & I'll mail you a couple to play with.

 

[Rhythm]

It's all about presentation and just depends, also to mention what about sealing for moisture ? These are the first things that come to mind,basically it's just a trial and error situation on the other issues.

 

[Mikey D]

It's all about presentation and just depends, also to mention what about sealing for moisture ? These are the first things that come to mind,basically it's just a trial and error situation on the other issues.

I am going to give them a light coat of polyester resin or epoxy for moisture/durability.

 

[Rhythm]

That'll work, now what about "hiding" of the wires going to and from the source and of course this dependz on where they are mounted on the frame?

 

[Mikey D]

The last lights I put on a bike (blue flourescent tubes, bout 6" lone each) I just ran the wires along the pre existing wiring harness. Where there was no harness, I just zip tied them to the frame away from any heat source.

Maybe this should be a new thread but check our my cool-wazoo-home-made-weather-resistant connector...

 

[Rhythm]

Yeah thats what I'm talkn about Mike, your making my nature rise . I cant wait to see how you are gonna do a track of these babies side by side.

""cool-wazoo-home-made-weather-resistant"""" . .