FomerBearGoneBad
Registered
In an effort to "stop the insanity", I'm pulling out my secret weapon...the ultra-power card...
Last edited by a moderator:
sprocket changes
- Thread starter BusaRyder3
- Start date
ok, after all is said and done, which is the final answer? 1up f/2up r, 1down/f stock/r or 2up rear .i just want to roast the non belivers especially a cowrker the swears up and down with the gixxer 1000 he has. all i got done to my bike is bolt on (yoshirs-3 race) k&n filter and the gpack. any other mods you guy think will help. airbox mod?
cnjdawson
Registered
As if anybody cares anymore, my 2 cents worth.
I went one down. I was told that this is the better choice because;
1, can keep stock chain.
2, CHEEPER
and 3, Less weight on the countershaft allows the engine to spin up faster.
Makes sense to remove weight rather than add, even if only an ounce or two. I recommend this mod.
I went one down. I was told that this is the better choice because;
1, can keep stock chain.
2, CHEEPER
and 3, Less weight on the countershaft allows the engine to spin up faster.
Makes sense to remove weight rather than add, even if only an ounce or two. I recommend this mod.
I did the -1 drop up front yesterday. Still got to wait till monday for the sprockert cover to come in. So it'll be a couple more days before she's back on the road. Buuuuutttt it'll be worth the down time, Switched TRE, lowering links, Reaper Risers, Cigerette lighter-hey i needed a way to keep the phone charged on long trips as well as keep the radar detector going at peak performance. Perhaps I might even repolish the frame since i've got the fairings off...
There's no such thing as down time when you own a busa
There's no such thing as down time when you own a busa
Dezzy,
Let me know how the change goes. I was considering going 1 down in the front to improve my times at the track.
Busashot
Registered
I did a -1 sprocket up front. I might go +1 up in the rear later. But I did it because I'm up at 5300' altitude and I am 260lbs. and bikes/cars do not run anything like sea level toys.
So if I was down near sea level I would still do a -1 up front and +1 in the rear because of my weight.
Now if you are the average 200lb guy, -1 front and maybe +1 in the rear. If you are around the 150-185lbs.or less, -1 front should be more than enough for best results.
The more the bike does not have to work harder to accelerate the better it will be. That is what weight will do as well.
One thing to remember is that the BUS is like owning a High TQ Low RPM Big Block Chevy 454 not a Low TQ High RPM 327 Chevy Small Block. 3.55-3.73 gears are good for BB. 4.11-4.56 are great for SB. I find that the ZX12R responds better with more gear because it makes most of it's power up higher like a Big Block Chevy 427 and not as much low RPM TQ as the BUS.
With too much gearing you can actually rev too fast through the powerband and not use the available power at your fingertips. Think about what a granny gear does for Tow trucks/Semis, pulls heavy loads but does not move very far from a standstill once it has gone through the powerband.
Basically what I'm saying is that with all of the broad HP/TQ powerband from a BUS, you generally do not need extreme gearing for optimal all around performance. If you strictly drag race then more gearing will almost always be better but you find yourself shifting at lower RPMs for best results.
Remember this is just my opinion but some of it has it's merits based off of my own experiences......
Steve
So if I was down near sea level I would still do a -1 up front and +1 in the rear because of my weight.
Now if you are the average 200lb guy, -1 front and maybe +1 in the rear. If you are around the 150-185lbs.or less, -1 front should be more than enough for best results.
The more the bike does not have to work harder to accelerate the better it will be. That is what weight will do as well.
One thing to remember is that the BUS is like owning a High TQ Low RPM Big Block Chevy 454 not a Low TQ High RPM 327 Chevy Small Block. 3.55-3.73 gears are good for BB. 4.11-4.56 are great for SB. I find that the ZX12R responds better with more gear because it makes most of it's power up higher like a Big Block Chevy 427 and not as much low RPM TQ as the BUS.
With too much gearing you can actually rev too fast through the powerband and not use the available power at your fingertips. Think about what a granny gear does for Tow trucks/Semis, pulls heavy loads but does not move very far from a standstill once it has gone through the powerband.
Basically what I'm saying is that with all of the broad HP/TQ powerband from a BUS, you generally do not need extreme gearing for optimal all around performance. If you strictly drag race then more gearing will almost always be better but you find yourself shifting at lower RPMs for best results.
Remember this is just my opinion but some of it has it's merits based off of my own experiences......
Steve
Bigfoot
Registered
OK , all kidding aside ,everyones entitled to their opinions and Ive decided to go down one in front based on this thread . What do I need to buy and where can I get it. Can I do this mod on my own? Im very mechanically inclined but spend most of my time on cars and boats up to now. Do I need aluminum or steel and can I keep my stock chain? Please give me some ideas. Are sprockets bike specific? Etc Etc thansk in advance guys !
SierraFlyer
Registered
I am pretty sure the front sprocket is only available in Steel. There is a boat load of force on the front sprocket. The rear is larger in Diameter and has less ft/lbs of force. Hardened 70XX series aluminum or better should hold up OK. Many people won't use anything less than steel rear sprockets to prevent fast wear. Aluminum has less rotational mass and also less unsprung weight. What is your preference? Less maintenance or more performance?
You should get a copy of the shop manual if you like to wrench on your own bike. They are really good. It will walk you through any level of repair up to a complete rebuild.
You should get a copy of the shop manual if you like to wrench on your own bike. They are really good. It will walk you through any level of repair up to a complete rebuild.
Bigfoot
Registered
Thanks Sierra, I can see from reading this forum daily that you have a lot to offer as far as good advice. I dont need the last edge or weight savings . In fact I get to ride no more than 5 thousand miles a year. I want something to give me more bottom end at the expense of top end. I have a CD that I bought on EBAY and will get a steel sprocket as per your recommendation. Any sources you suggest for the sprocket ? Thanks
Busashot
Registered
Sprocket Specialists are sold through some of the following:
Schnitz Racing ()
Brock Davidson Racing ()
Spencer Cycle (http://prosites-spencercycle.homestead.com/Welcome.html)
www.parts411.com
Schnitz Racing ()
Brock Davidson Racing ()
Spencer Cycle (http://prosites-spencercycle.homestead.com/Welcome.html)
www.parts411.com
Here are speed tables for stock and 43/17 gearing. Have included speeds for both 11000 RPM and 10500 RPM since the tach reads about 500 RPM high. This is with a stock diameter tire.
40/17 11000
1 82.3
2 111.2
3 141.1
4 167.6
5 189.5
6 206.4
40/17 10500
1 78.6
2 106.1
3 134.7
4 160.0
5 180.9
6 197.1
43/17 11000
1 76.6
2 103.4
3 131.2
4 155.8
5 176.3
6 192.0
43/17 10500
1 73.1
2 98.7
3 125.3
4 148.8
5 168.3
6 183.3
Wolf
40/17 11000
1 82.3
2 111.2
3 141.1
4 167.6
5 189.5
6 206.4
40/17 10500
1 78.6
2 106.1
3 134.7
4 160.0
5 180.9
6 197.1
43/17 11000
1 76.6
2 103.4
3 131.2
4 155.8
5 176.3
6 192.0
43/17 10500
1 73.1
2 98.7
3 125.3
4 148.8
5 168.3
6 183.3
Wolf
Similar threads
