Sprockets

SS4Luck said:
Stock vs 18/45 Mathematically (removing speedo error which can be bad on our bikes sometimes, mines off by 8mph at 90)
2000 = 37 vs 35
4000 = 83 vs 80
6000 = 110 vs 104


This should be pretty close. In 6th gear its really not noticeable.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the data! With this information, I am wondering if a 45 rear makes enough difference in acceleration to really notice, or if perhaps I should go to a 46 rear. Hmmmm, any suggestions are welcome, and thanks for all of the help so far. You guys really know your stuff!
 
Metalthrashinman said:
Thanks for the data! With this information, I am wondering if a 45 rear makes enough difference in acceleration to really notice, or if perhaps I should go to a 46 rear. Hmmmm, any suggestions are welcome, and thanks for all of the help so far. You guys really know your stuff!
Click to expand...
I'm switching to a 45, everyone said that its much better acceleration.
 
Ive tried everything from 18/41-46 and 45 is the best of everything, especially on a stock wheelbase. My bike leaves the hardest and 40-130s best 18/42, but rides the best and is the funniest all around bike 18/45.

Do you have any other mods? Any weight taken off the bike?
 
Is the Gen 3 gearing the same as the Gen 2 ? I really like running 18/47t on the Busa , @sixpack577 got me onto trying out the wilder acceleration ratios , and I found this combo best for my favorite roads .
 
SS4Luck said:
Ive tried everything from 18/41-46 and 45 is the best of everything, especially on a stock wheelbase. My bike leaves the hardest and 40-130s best 18/42, but rides the best and is the funniest all around bike 18/45.

Do you have any other mods? Any weight taken off the bike?
Click to expand...
The only mod I have are the Yosh slip ons. I didn't notice the machine handling any differently from the weight reduction, nor did I notice the 1hp gain that the addition claims (LOL); But the bike sounded like a vacuum cleaner with the stock pipes, and I think that they were ugly as hell.

So was the 46 taking too much off of the top speed for you? I really want a lot more acceleration, but I am just worried that the 46 would pull the rear wheel too far forward with the stock chain. I wonder what a 17 front with a 44 (or even a 45) rear would be like. That would keep the chain long...
 
Metalthrashinman said:
The only mod I have are the Yosh slip ons. I didn't notice the machine handling any differently from the weight reduction, nor did I notice the 1hp gain that the addition claims (LOL); But the bike sounded like a vacuum cleaner with the stock pipes, and I think that they were ugly as hell.

So was the 46 taking too much off of the top speed for you? I really want a lot more acceleration, but I am just worried that the 46 would pull the rear wheel too far forward with the stock chain. I wonder what a 17 front with a 44 (or even a 45) rear would be like. That would keep the chain long...
Click to expand...
You might like a 46 if you're basically full weight then.

On my bike the 45 is just faster than the 46 from a second gear roll so I went with the 45, I'm also basically a Maxx effort stock fairings deal so the extra tooth of acceleration wasn't helping as much. I would do what I could to stay 18t front on a stock swingarm. A friend came over cuz a shop didn't know poop about busas and gave him the -1/+2 standard si we put my 42 rear on his bike and the chain rides the stock swingarm more than I'd want it to on my own bike with the smaller front sprocket. You could just run two master links and go 18/46 all the way back if you're worried about where position too though
 
Metalthrashinman said:
The only mod I have are the Yosh slip ons. I didn't notice the machine handling any differently from the weight reduction, nor did I notice the 1hp gain that the addition claims (LOL); But the bike sounded like a vacuum cleaner with the stock pipes, and I think that they were ugly as hell.

So was the 46 taking too much off of the top speed for you? I really want a lot more acceleration, but I am just worried that the 46 would pull the rear wheel too far forward with the stock chain. I wonder what a 17 front with a 44 (or even a 45) rear would be like. That would keep the chain long...
Click to expand...

The difference in wheelbase length is not noticeable, unless you are an experienced knee dragger, same with the lost muffler weight, as it is noticeable flicking the big bike left to right in fast corners.
With a 46t rear, 175+mph top end is still possible.
 
Fernando said:
I understand when we change sprockets the speedometer is not accurate. My question for you guys is How did you guys re-calibrate your bike’s speedometer? Please advise
Click to expand...
Speed isn’t based on drive train is what I’m hearing
 
Old and conventional wisdom for people who are going to put miles on their bike:
-Tight chains are bad. The bike feels a little zippier, but a mighty Busa engine will inevitably stretch a chain that is at the tight end of the spec recommendation. This means it will have loose sections and tight sections (and it's pretty critical when adjusting the chain tension to find the tight spot and have it on the top part of the loop when doing so).
-Aluminum sprockets will wear out sooner. This can be dangerous and is bad for peace of mind when turning your wrist in command of a Busa engine. 'Am I going to catastrophically slip or wear my chain today? Next week? Next month? Or should I just spring for a new one now? It's only got 5,000 miles on it but already looks like a surfing graphic...'.
-The tight / kinked chain transmits power unevenly, which can cause premature rear tire wear. So you wonder to yourself why the hell you're getting so few miles out of your rear tire and it's the chain that you didn't think of.
-All these subconscious niggles and worries will be magnified by dropping down to a 520. Yeah, probably strong enough for gentle daily riding, or for hard riding or even track but only for a few thousand miles.
-It's really advisable to get new front and rear sprockets and chain at the same time. That set will last longer than mix and match.
-Supersprox makes a stealth rear sprocket with an aluminum center but steel teeth. IMHO the perfect compromise between durability and weight. I got a +1 rear stealth.

Being smart about keeping the chain at the loose end of the tightening spec, and putting new steel sprockets front and rear on at the same time as a new chain, and keeping the chain well lubed even during road trips gives me peace of mind about not having to replace the rear tire earlier than I need to. And same with the sprockets. Yeah there's a small weight penalty but the dollar savings offsets it. Just my two cents.
 
Last edited:
PS there are European and US databases for the supersprox and they could be better maintained. But the European database confirms that the rear stealth sprocket fits on the Gen 3:

PPS If you get BST Carbon wheels, you'll need a different stealth sprocket, but the one that is available for BST Wheels will work. There was some confusion in ordering it but it turned out to be fine.

Supersprox fits 22 rear.png


PPPS I had to buy one of each, so I guess I've got a spare (+1 Stealth, gold) for the stock rear wheel. Unused. PM me if interested.
 
Last edited:
dcnblues said:
PPPS I had to buy one of each, so I guess I've got a spare (+1 Stealth, gold) for the stock rear wheel. Unused. PM me if interested.
Click to expand...

can you weight the 44T one you have and post its weight? Ive always been curious what the middle ground is between full aluminum and steel. I run 44t on my bike and have vortex brand 44t both material so it could be an exact comparison

your logic for using them is spot on, and your first post does point out a lot of the flaws of the 520 setup. I have to adjust my chain pretty much before every ride. I replace my rear sprockets every 3-5K miles (which if I'm honest is basically every 1.5 years) but I also have a very specific and select use for my bike that a lot of people don't understand when they see my say I run a 520. I am the one that is hunting for every gram and every advantage and spend 3x the time working on my bike as I do riding to keep it only slightly a death trap and not an exploding death trap lol. risk to reward for 520 guys isn't worth it for 90% of the people that want them and they just don't understand that enough
 
Last edited:
Aluminum rear sprockets are fine on Busas.
I broke 4 teeth off a standard aluminum Vortex...and 8 off their Hardcut on my Gen2...but I was riding wheelies, so agressive on the throttle.
But, both sprockets still rode fine with missing teeth.
Considering the load I put on them, the aluminum rear sprockets held up very well.
I actually ordered a Vortex Hardcut aluminum rear for my '03 Gsxr1k yesterday, granted that bike has alot less weight and torque, but I still wouldn't be concerned about strength or any danger using them.
Less weight/rotaing mass is always good.
 
sixpack577 said:
Aluminum rear sprockets are fine on Busas.
I broke 4 teeth off a standard aluminum Vortex...and 8 off their Hardcut on my Gen2...but I was riding wheelies, so agressive on the throttle.
But, both sprockets still rode fine with missing teeth.
Considering the load I put on them, the aluminum rear sprockets held up very well.
I actually ordered a Vortex Hardcut aluminum rear for my '03 Gsxr1k yesterday, granted that bike has alot less weight and torque, but I still wouldn't be concerned about strength or any danger using them.
Less weight/rotaing mass is always good.
Click to expand...
I put a steel Super Sprox on mine and it's still lighter than stock by a little..I have two in different tooth count...one stock and one that's 41T
 
SS4Luck said:
can you weight the 44T one you have and post its weight? Ive always been curious what the middle ground is between full aluminum and steel. I run 44t on my bike and have vortex brand 44t both material so it could be an exact comparison

your logic for using them is spot on, and your first post does point out a lot of the flaws of the 520 setup. I have to adjust my chain pretty much before every ride. I replace my rear sprockets every 3-5K miles (which if I'm honest is basically every 1.5 years) but I also have a very specific and select use for my bike that a lot of people don't understand when they see my say I run a 520. I am the one that is hunting for every gram and every advantage and spend 3x the time working on my bike as I do riding to keep it only slightly a death trap and not an exploding death trap lol. risk to reward for 520 guys isn't worth it for 90% of the people that want them and they just don't understand that enough
Click to expand...
Yep, exactly right. I only took my gen 1 to the strip that one time, and ran just a little over 11 which I was happy with for a first try. I can totally see setting up a gen 3 for that acceleration rush (whether track or street), and I can totally see that rush being highly addictive. Similar to high speed runs. Once you run over 160, 120 feels like walking and you want more. I've been happy resisting those two addictions. My happy place is the twisties, and it's where I'm at my best.

I'm hoping for 15 or 20,000 miles out of this set.

Sorry for the delayed response. SuperSprox Stealth 530 / 44 teeth looks to be 1lb 59oz / 2.12kg

PXL_20230913_223522194.jpg


PXL_20230913_223453188.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Anyone running a 40 tooth sprocket at the rear?
Replies
4
Views
647
Rojo
Rojo
Speed King
Sprocket teeth, front and rear?
Replies
3
Views
1,831
m_ridgeway
m_ridgeway
K
Replace chain and sprockets
Replies
8
Views
1,469
kietbusby
K
Amelio
Front sprocket thickness
Replies
5
Views
2,290
Rojo
Rojo
Armoni76
TC flashes too much / 45T sprocket
Replies
15
Views
1,474
Robert 0046
Robert 0046
Back
Top