Steel Brake Lines

[sixpack577]

People get custom ordered rear brake lines all the time. I'm sure you can get them for front and rear. Go with Spiegler and all you need to do is tell them the length and angle of the banjo stem. The degree you turh the hoses you adjust yourself. Personally, id look for solid kevlar because those will be a real weight reduction. I had kevlar hoses last 12 years and they were still in fine condition.

There are alot of lines in an ABS kit, some replace hard lines, and those have different fittings, so it can be a complicated custom order.
As big as Spiegler and the Hayabusa names are, I'm betting they have something in the works as we speak.

 

[KPJ132716]

Any how to's videos on this for the Gen 3?
Not hard to just replace the lines just follow them but I like a visual on what I'm getting myself in to .
Maybe some tips on the easiest way to go about.

 

[sixpack577]

Any how to's videos on this for the Gen 3?
Not hard to just replace the lines just follow them but I like a visual on what I'm getting myself in to .
Maybe some tips on the easiest way to go about.

Bleed the brakes as normal, calipers, then master cylinders, then use each exit line bolt from the abs pump(2, one for front, one for the rear) as if it were a bleeder screw, break it loose and retighten. Hold a rag around it to keep the fluid that comes out from making a mess.
Then bleed the mc's and calipers again.
If you are pumping the front or rear brake, and the fluid in the master cylinder is getting lower, as it should, but the fluid level in the resivor begins to rise when you release the lever or pedal, that means you still have air in the lines between the mc's and the abs pump.
Which is why you use the abs pump exit line bolts like bleeder screws.
That is the only difference bleeding abs brakes, and you don't need any electronic tools to activate the abs pump either.

 

[KPJ132716]

Bleed the brakes as normal, calipers, then master cylinders, then use each exit line bolt from the abs pump(2, one for front, one for the rear) as if it were a bleeder screw, break it loose and retighten. Hold a rag around it to keep the fluid that comes out from making a mess.
Then bleed the mc's and calipers again.
If you are pumping the front or rear brake, and the fluid in the master cylinder is getting lower, as it should, but the fluid level in the resivor begins to rise when you release the lever or pedal, that means you still have air in the lines between the mc's and the abs pump.
Which is why you use the abs pump exit line bolts like bleeder screws.
That is the only difference bleeding abs brakes, and you don't need any electronic tools to activate the abs pump either.

Thanks