Stiff Chain link.. ?Advice?

RedFalco

RedFalco

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Registered
Hello-
Just replaced front and rear tires and noticed a VERY stiff link to the point where it is un-movable by hand? EKZ gold chain has maybe 2,000 miles on it. Replaced the chain with both the front and rear sprocket last season. It has been lubed and cleaned (w/ kerosene) regularly, always with chain on the bike. Would a good soak in kerosene do the trick and is there a length of time that it should soak for, if true? I'm fixin' to remove the chain to replace the front sprocket (again) cause I don't like all the extra vibration the Vortex sprocket gives the ride and it puts my foot to sleep.lol. (gearing is stock) I just ordered an OEM front sprocket to get that extra "cushion" feel back. Oh.. and the stiff link is not the master link. :whistle:
:please:Any advice is GREATLY appreciated.:please:
Thank you in advance,
Brian
 
You didn't over tighten and stretch it when you changed it did you? The chain should have 0.8 - 1.2 inches of slack in it.

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rusheriv said:
You didn't over tighten and stretch it when you changed it did you? The chain should have 0.8 - 1.2 inches of slack in it.

displayimage.php
Click to expand...

Just out of curiosity, do you know what a new chain measures out at?

And thanks for posting the info, I found it in the manual after you posted it but hadn't thought to look before.
 
RedFalco said:
Hello-
Just replaced front and rear tires and noticed a VERY stiff link to the point where it is un-movable by hand? EKZ gold chain has maybe 2,000 miles on it. Replaced the chain with both the front and rear sprocket last season. It has been lubed and cleaned (w/ kerosene) regularly, always with chain on the bike. Would a good soak in kerosene do the trick and is there a length of time that it should soak for, if true? I'm fixin' to remove the chain to replace the front sprocket (again) cause I don't like all the extra vibration the Vortex sprocket gives the ride and it puts my foot to sleep.lol. (gearing is stock) I just ordered an OEM front sprocket to get that extra "cushion" feel back. Oh.. and the stiff link is not the master link. :whistle:
:please:Any advice is GREATLY appreciated.:please:
Thank you in advance,
Brian
Click to expand...
It should work its self loose soon if not, try some penetrating oil on the link!
As far as the sprocket, you dont need to remove the chain to swap it!
 
Hmmmm.. I hope not. I always kept it tight, more so on the 0.8 side. Just went out to measure but found that my caliper only goes out 6". I'll pick up another caliper tomarrow and measure it out.
 
RedFalco said:
Hmmmm.. I hope not. I always kept it tight, more so on the 0.8 side. Just went out to measure but found that my caliper only goes out 6". I'll pick up another caliper tomarrow and measure it out.
Click to expand...

I see we own the same calipers :thumbsup:
 
GIXERHP said:
It should work its self loose soon if not, try some penetrating oil on the link!
As far as the sprocket, you dont need to remove the chain to swap it!
Click to expand...

WoW.. Great news, thank you. I was only going to take off the chain to soak it (if necessary). But w/ this info, I'll try the penetrating oil now.
Thanks sooo much..
I'll measure tomarrow also.
More excuses to get more tools...lol...
 
With a chain that new I suspect something wrong if just 1 link is seized.
If it were mine I would cut out that link and put in a new master link in it's place.
Just me.
(It isn't the master that is seized is it?)
Good luck!
 
So it would be okay to run two master links in a chain? I do have an extra master link. I'll give the penetrating oil a try and measure tomarrow to verify stretch.
No, its not the master; the siezed (<that don't sound good) link is about 10 or so links away from the current master.
 
Way better to have 2 masters than a seized link.
If you install it properly, it is as strong as any other link (chain only as strong as it's weakest link theory)
I would bet that getting that bad link fixed will remove all your vibration and you can keep the sprockets.
My Vortex sprockets work as good as OEM, and they should not vibrate - bet it is that link.
 
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Did notice alittle more vibration when I did the intitial install of the new chain and sprockets, but never thought to verify all links in the new chain before the install. I mentioned the once slight vibration to a buddy at work and he stated it could be due to the aftermarket sprocket because they don't typically have the rubber chain "rest" like that of an OEM sprocket. Told him that I did notice the differance between the two during the install and never gave it a second thought. Gonna try and get this siezed link figured out and give the Vortex sprocket a chance before I totally give up on it. :thumbsup: And save 64 bucks to boot or just keep a backup. Thank you so much for your input on your experience with your sprockets, really helps out!:beerchug:
 
Last edited:
RedFalco said:
Did notice alittle more vibration when I did the intitial install of the new chain and sprockets, but never thought to verify all links in the new chain before the install. I mentioned the once slight vibration to a buddy at work and he stated it could be due to the aftermarket sprocket because they don't typically have the rubber chain "rest" like that of an OEM sprocket. Told him that I did notice the differance between the two during the install and never gave it a second thought. Gonna try and get this siezed link figured out and give the Vortex sprocket a chance before I totally give up on it. :thumbsup: And save 64 bucks to boot or just keep a backup. Thank you so much for your input on your experience with your Vortex sprockets, really helps out!:beerchug:
Click to expand...

Glad to pass it on.
There are thousands of Vortex sprokets out there, and this is the first I have heard of a vibration from them.
Check the teeth front and rear as that bad link may have chewed them up a bit.
Let us know if it worked.
Good luck!.
 
Good luck, 2K miles and you took care of it. Dayum. I never noticed vibration but would notice a clicking sound.
 
RedFalco said:
Hmmmm.. I hope not. I always kept it tight, more so on the 0.8 side. Just went out to measure but found that my caliper only goes out 6". I'll pick up another caliper tomarrow and measure it out.
Click to expand...

Now, you would think keeping the chain at that low limit would extend it's life. Unfortunately, the swing arm isn't equidistant from the axis. Thus, the swing of the rear adjusts that low-limit to almost nothing, at times, causing premature stretch. You might consider penetrating that tight link, then readjusting the rear to about 1". I ran the original stock at the lower end of , .8-1.2", and it became worn, and stretched very early.

Cleaning, and greasing is half the battle when that speedo says high-triples, and the chain is at minimums...... :oldcool:
 
loose chain > tight chain

the vibes could be coming from the bad link, not the sprocket(s).
 
Had this problem recently, caused a "clunking" noise. Turned out it was a link that was an issue. Used WD-40 on it before and after a brief ride to get it loose.

BHG said it best, a chain that is a little too loose, is better than a chain that is a little too tight.
 
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