Street comfortable performance upgrades

If you run dual intakes you wont need to install H/d valve springs. The OE ones are up to the job. When you start going to bigger than stock cams, then you must look at adding springs. I don't think fitting a Gen 2 crank is worth the money to fit unless doing a 84mm kit. Money couldbe spent somewhere is. Just my .02 cents
 
Yea you have to split cases to do any crank work. More labor. Personally here is my take on your parts goal:

1. Intake cam swap exhaust side with APE adjustable sprockets (The Intake Cam on the Exhaust side may not be reliable as I have seen where the cam lobe sits on the bucket and it doesn't jive with me. Do small Webs or Yosh cams. Degreed right and you will still see 5-8hp gains everywhere in the RPM range (Streetwise) maybe more depending on headwork, etc.
2. Port and polish cylinder head along with a valve job with Heavy duty valve springs (Don't go 65lb springs as those are better suited for cams over 400' otherwise expect more wear/tear on the buckets and the cam lobes)
3. 08 crank swap, i plan on keeping the stock 81mm bore. That would put me at 1340cc displacement, hopefully it will provide a little more reliablility than the 1397 stroker kit while increasing overall HP and performance. (As stated above, might as well do a bore with it since your in it. 1397 or 1441 are reliable and if heating up occurs then spend a little money and time in beefing up the cooling system. Not hard and not expensive.)
4. Send the 08 crank to APE to get lightened, balanced, and removal of the counter balancer gear removed and light weight replacement shaft added.(Higher revs are nice if you are racing at 12k rpms all the time but for a street setup you are going to want TQ and overall quickness from the heavier assy. Removing the balancer is fine but lightening the crank your going to lose the nice TQ roll-on ooomph!)
5. High volume oil pump gear. (Good idea)
6. Carpenter Power Scoops. (Proven to make HP on the dyno but proven to slow the bike down in the 1/4 and beyond. Don't waste your money.)
7. Brocks CT Megaphone Titanium Full Exhaust 17". (Nice choice of course.)
8. ECU flash and custom map/ dyno tuning done. (I like the ECU tuning above piggyback systems like the PC3/PC5. Either way a good tune is necessary.)
9. Considering adding a small 20 shot of nitrous with and underhump set up but i need to do more research on the proper way to set it up along with the right brands and components. I dont plan on spraying alot just in case something bigger and nastier than me is pulling away on a highway. (On a budget? Well I used both Cold Fusion and Dynotune Nitrous kits and for the money are fine. I personally haven't had any issues with either companies [Knock on Wood]. Since you will be using the ECU tune, you can have two live maps. One off nitrous and one that can kick in whenever you want. 20hp will bore you quick though. Go at least 40hp and you will have no issues. I also like running two jets/lines into each intake opening to give the best hit when fogging. I place it a little different than most. I can send pics if you like. I have used jetting for 65hp gains with no issues after a careful tune.)
 
Ok thanks for the vote of confidence :thumbsup: I was reading my eyes out trying to figure out the perfect setup. Glad you approve, I would like to hear others Yay or Nay as far as the set up i have put together. Lamb Busa your probably right about the Nos but you know what they say about speed.............its never enough :laugh: I think this set up is a nice because it leaves me the flexibility to go Nos or Turbo if i get curious and feel the need for more speed. Plus theres the cool factor and the overall experience of dealing with nitrous without going too far down the rabbit hole
 
Thank you SABUSABOY and Busashot :bowdown: This is the knowledge that ive been searching for. My eyes hurt from reading sooo many threads:banghead:
 
#1busa, the best is to speak to a tuner in your area that people trust and recommend. Where do you stay on the East Coast? Speak to Frank at Powerhouse in West Babylon, NY ( 631 ) 491 6767 or Rodney at Williiford Racing. You cant go wrong with them, plus Frank is a sponsor on the site as well.
 
#1busa said:
Yeah but i am talking about a set up for street riding and it looks like you are referring to drag racing. I think a 40 shot is too much for what im looking for, 20 shot at best. Thanks anyways thoough
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Just FYI...I have 33,000 miles on that set up with countless bottles of N2O, I'd say that's pretty streetable.
 
A lot of people have recommended upgrading to the 1397. I would like to hear some 1st hand accounts from people that have done it and how their Busa's performed on the street in comparison to stock.......Pros n Cons
 
I am in the process of getting all my parts together, just not decided on a 1397 or 1441 yet. If doing a 1397 or 1441 just put a Gixxer extra fan on, the lower temp sensor and you cooling should be sorted should you get stuck in traffic. I think if you run a high compression, then dual batterys will be needed. Just crack the throttle open a little to make starting a little easier, plus you can set the ECU editor to a lower RPM for a big bore. I have not tried it yet, but as soon as my engine is built will give a try and see if it makes a difference
 
Would anybody else like to share their experiences riding a big bore busa on the street? ??? Alot of threads on the builds but very little info after the fact and how they run on the street compared to other bikes
 
I am a street rider, I have no intentions on going to a drag strip. There are a lot of threads and information about big bore kits and turbo but very little info on how either perform in a street setting. I am curious to know how your turbo handles in and out of the city, highway, backroads , n twisties? I'm not looking to go fast in just a straight line but fast all over and not have to be tearing it down and constantly dumping money in2 it every offseason
 
I run a 1400 conversion on the road and have not as yet[touch wood] encountered any problems!
No overheating or starting problems to speak of, bear in mind it doesn't get as hot over here though!
 
#1busa said:
I am a street rider, I have no intentions on going to a drag strip. There are a lot of threads and information about big bore kits and turbo but very little info on how either perform in a street setting. I am curious to know how your turbo handles in and out of the city, highway, backroads , n twisties? I'm not looking to go fast in just a straight line but fast all over and not have to be tearing it down and constantly dumping money in2 it every offseason
Click to expand...

So far it's reliable with no problems. I don't care for twisties I just like to ride HW but its fast overall but I don't normally get into boost unless I need to. My boost kicks in at 5 1/2 to 6k so u drive it around as if it was a normal bike until u hit boost. So if u want overall all the time power I would say big bore
 
*update* :thumbsup: Just picked up a set of Yoshi stage 1 cams for my gen1. I also grabbed up a set of factory pro billet velocity stacks (short version) for next to nothing. Ive switched the gearing on my bike to a 16/42 as well. Im more than likely gonna go with a 1397 upgrade straight motor no nitrous. My question is I've heard that a good upgrade to use is the Gen2 titanium valves and springs. Any opinions on using them? Feedback is much appreciated :bowdown:
 
The reason I'm asking is because a lot of the comments said not to go HD valve springs unless I'm going with 400 cams+ well I got these yoshi cams now so I'm trying to figure out if the gen2 titanium valves and springs would be the best bet or just go with the Heavy Duty 1's ???
 
Another option is the Gen II crank and +2mm to get 1407cc, and thinner head gasket to bump up compression sense no power adders are to be used?
and non engine related, have you thought about lighter wheels and ceramic bearings? helps out in all areas. going fast, brakes, handling, looks...
 
Yeah I just finished up with the R1 wheel mod. Shaved about 3pounds off each wheel with the R1 rims. My bike feels so much lighter now and more agile its ridiculous! Crazy how 6pounds makes that much of a diff. My mechanic wastrying to explain how for every lb. Less below the axle helps with something to do with the centrifical force of the wheel etc. Anyways haha I thought about the gen2 crank but I'm trying to get my top end figured out 1st which is why I was asking about what kind of valves and springs to run with those yoshi cams
 
*update* grabbed up a PC3 and ignition module, also bought a dynojet quickshifter, courtesy of GixerHP :beerchug: I have a reputable shop lined up that will do the port and polish. So my question is with the list of current performance items that I have what should be my next step? I was looking into pipes and found a nice TiForce sumo but I read unless your motor is seriously built the Sumo can actually rob you of a couple ponies in the lower and bottom end.... As always any tips and advice are much appreciated :bowdown:
 
#1busa said:
*update* grabbed up a PC3 and ignition module, also bought a dynojet quickshifter, courtesy of GixerHP :beerchug: I have a reputable shop lined up that will do the port and polish. So my question is with the list of current performance items that I have what should be my next step? I was looking into pipes and found a nice TiForce sumo but I read unless your motor is seriously built the Sumo can actually rob you of a couple ponies in the lower and bottom end.... As always any tips and advice are much appreciated :bowdown:
Click to expand...
My '02 Busa is setup with a 1397 and I love it. Its very reliable. i have heavy duty springs and 380/380 cams with no problems. I did set it up with the 24v starting system only because I was having problems before the 1397 when i sat in a lot of traffic so i figured I would upgrade with the big bore. I will say this about the 24v starting system...when I am at bike week and stuck in traffic and the temp starts to rise, I can shut the bike off and let it cool and know that when I am ready to start there will be no problems. I dont know about the tiforce but you cant go wrong with a Brock system.
 
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