Street comfortable performance upgrades
- Thread starter 1busa
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sweatnblood
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I'm also on this same idea...glad I got a lot of info here on things to do and things to stay away from...still thinking I might do turbo but need to find someone here in san diego area that has a clue how to set it up if I buy a system...but if not turbo thinking of calling APE and see if they have any ride in ride out options that won't break the bank
lease:
lease:sweatnblood
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Yea...I was looking into some performance packages and they were about 2200 drive in drive out about 180ish to the rear...I think that was a head job without cams...I can get a used turbo kit for 2500...but then I figure there is about another grand to 1500 if it done right...not looking for huge HP from the turbo but low boost will net 220 with no problem...like you I'm trying to keep the BMW's and ZX's off my ass...as of right now I'll kill any zx in curves
and she will stay up with most due to a diet...prob. about 50lbs lighter then stock busa...so have you gotten everything put on yet and if so have you got a chance to get some dyno #'s
and she will stay up with most due to a diet...prob. about 50lbs lighter then stock busa...so have you gotten everything put on yet and if so have you got a chance to get some dyno #'s
1busa
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No my bike is still in the shop getting my suspension rebuilt front and rear with race tech internals, springs, eibach spring, and fluids. I plan on riding it through the summer and doing a complete engine rebuild next winter. Im probably gonna undercut the trans, send my crank to APE get it balanced, fluted and counter balancer removed. For the top end im still undecided but I may just run 13:1 JE high compression pistons stock bore and a port n polish with a valve job. Once I rebuild my engine I plan on getting it tuned and dyno'd. I may get it dyno'd right before I tear into the engine just so I can post some before and after results but either way I still have alot to do on my bike. I will keep updating as I add on to my busa, I cant wait for the snow to go away and temps to go up a little so I can get out there and see how much of a difference my upgrades have made so far 
1busa
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Well my busa is outta the shop and the weather broke so I was finally able to get a couple hours of riding in 
I got a ton of work and mods done to it over the winter and I think it all came together nicely IMO The biggest surprise and best upgrade I can honestly say I have done so far has to be the suspension upgrades. My busa feels so planted now it feels like a total different bike! Even when Im accelerating down the highway it feels like my busa is hugging to the pavement. I no longer feel the subtle bumps or unsteadiness at times when Im hitting it hard. Best part about it is I didnt spend an astronomical amount of money on it either. Searched around and found the Race Tech rebuild kits for the front and rear, thanks goes out to the org member who sold me the rear kit he decided not to use 
Ordered my springs and rear shock from Race tech and the rest is history. My busa is set up for my weight, another step completed towards building the perfect busa 4 me. I highly recommend this to anybody looking to up the performance on their busa. I know most of the time we spend talking and debating HP and how to get the most possible but suspension plays a big factor in how your bike is able to handle and distribute that HP 
Anyways like i said that was 1 of the many upgrades that I was able to get done on my busa this winter and here is what she is looking like right now.
I got a ton of work and mods done to it over the winter and I think it all came together nicely IMO The biggest surprise and best upgrade I can honestly say I have done so far has to be the suspension upgrades. My busa feels so planted now it feels like a total different bike! Even when Im accelerating down the highway it feels like my busa is hugging to the pavement. I no longer feel the subtle bumps or unsteadiness at times when Im hitting it hard. Best part about it is I didnt spend an astronomical amount of money on it either. Searched around and found the Race Tech rebuild kits for the front and rear, thanks goes out to the org member who sold me the rear kit he decided not to use Ordered my springs and rear shock from Race tech and the rest is history. My busa is set up for my weight, another step completed towards building the perfect busa 4 me. I highly recommend this to anybody looking to up the performance on their busa. I know most of the time we spend talking and debating HP and how to get the most possible but suspension plays a big factor in how your bike is able to handle and distribute that HP Anyways like i said that was 1 of the many upgrades that I was able to get done on my busa this winter and here is what she is looking like right now.
1busa
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I also got my ti force pipe installed, PC3, PC ignition, quick shifter, shorty billet intake stacks, power scoops, and piper cross air filter 
I had everything installed at once so its kinda hard to tell what exactly is making the biggest difference but there is a BIG difference in the way my bike is riding. It feels quicker and overall like i gained a couple ponies but without a before and after dyno I cant be for sure. I was only able to find a stock map off the power commander website for a busa with a Ti Force exhaust. I have a ton of additional performance mods done to it so I know its not the optimal map but it has to be better than stock. I know the proper thing to do is get it dyno tuned but Im not done modding it yet so Im wondering if its even worth it cause dyno time isnt cheap and if I throw something else on it in a month or 2 the bike is gonna need tuned again. I picked up a LCD screen and Hub for next to nothing and I'm considering the dyno jet wideband 2. It works with the LCD unit and would be able to display the air fuel ratios of my busa. I can data log a couple riding sessions and go in and figure i could go in and tweak my map that way to get it closer to optimum performance. Do you think this would be a good idea vs a tune for right now? My goal is to rebuild my engine and prep it for a major upgrade this winter so I want to get it dyno'd after its all said and done. IDK? Just kicking around some ideas and trying to figure out my next move............ As usual any feedback or advice is much appreciated
I had everything installed at once so its kinda hard to tell what exactly is making the biggest difference but there is a BIG difference in the way my bike is riding. It feels quicker and overall like i gained a couple ponies but without a before and after dyno I cant be for sure. I was only able to find a stock map off the power commander website for a busa with a Ti Force exhaust. I have a ton of additional performance mods done to it so I know its not the optimal map but it has to be better than stock. I know the proper thing to do is get it dyno tuned but Im not done modding it yet so Im wondering if its even worth it cause dyno time isnt cheap and if I throw something else on it in a month or 2 the bike is gonna need tuned again. I picked up a LCD screen and Hub for next to nothing and I'm considering the dyno jet wideband 2. It works with the LCD unit and would be able to display the air fuel ratios of my busa. I can data log a couple riding sessions and go in and figure i could go in and tweak my map that way to get it closer to optimum performance. Do you think this would be a good idea vs a tune for right now? My goal is to rebuild my engine and prep it for a major upgrade this winter so I want to get it dyno'd after its all said and done. IDK? Just kicking around some ideas and trying to figure out my next move............ As usual any feedback or advice is much appreciated
1busa
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Its been from my experiences that its cheaper to purchase the Race Tech Gold valve kits from somewhere other than Racetech. Ebays sells brand new rebuild kits and Solomoto.com has some as well. I was able to get all the pieces needed from those 2 places with the exception of the Eibach rear shock, Race Tech rear shock adapter and the Race Tech fluids for the forks and rear shock. Once you order a kit there is gonna be a number you can go to the race tech website with. You type in the code # and you are able to configure the suspension for your weight and the weight of the bike. You use those settings when you rebuild your suspension and it will be ready to ride.
maXmood
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I would look around for better prices and all, but thought if there is a ready-to-go kit that includes everything to rebuild the forks, i would go for it to save myself the hassle of buying items from different places.
1busa
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Yeah I thought the same thing until I seen about a $30 difference on each item vs what race tech was asking. I think they want $150 for a kit and I was able to get the front kit for $119 and the rear for I think $80? Now those 2 prices had shipping included! So your looking @ $300+shipping from Race tech and $199 the other route. It was the same difference on fork springs as well so its your choice but there's a big difference from saving a few dollars to saving a $100+ by searching around the web for a few minutes
maXmood
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Yeah I thought the same thing until I seen about a $30 difference on each item vs what race tech was asking. I think they want $150 for a kit and I was able to get the front kit for $119 and the rear for I think $80? Now those 2 prices had shipping included! So your looking @ $300+shipping from Race tech and $199 the other route. It was the same difference on fork springs as well so its your choice but there's a big difference from saving a few dollars to saving a $100+ by searching around the web for a few minutes
i'll be searching...
1busa
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Just installed my Ballistic Evo-12 lithium battery. Been wanting 1 of these things for a while and finally decided to pull the trigger. Man that thing is Tiny!! Busa fires right up lickity split Nice way to shave off a few pounds. The company says 8-10 difference but Igot excited and installed it before weighing them both. Oh well something 4me to do on a rainy day. Either way this battery is considerably lighterand pumps out more cranking amps. I've had my Busa on a diet for a while now and this is def gonna help. The little bit here and there is starting to pay off
Nice way to shave off a few pounds. The company says 8-10 difference but Igot excited and installed it before weighing them both. Oh well something 4me to do on a rainy day. Either way this battery is considerably lighterand pumps out more cranking amps. I've had my Busa on a diet for a while now and this is def gonna help. The little bit here and there is starting to pay off
GNBRETT
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the beauty of a turbo is you can make 240 hp and still have all the daily driving capabilities of a stock bike and when u get tired of that power just turn up the boost. when u get tired of that power do some engine mods and an alky kit or ultra plenum and turn it up even more.
and if u really want to make power throw in C16 and get a race tune. makes far more sense then an over heating big bore kit that has to rely of laughing gas all the time.
yea sure there are some fast ass N20 bikes out there both at the track and street but so what. havn to continue to fill up that bottle and keep it at the right temp to work right is a PITA. especially if ur a street rider like you are.
remember a turbo is smooth brutal power. N20 is abrupt power and is far more likely to break chit then a turbo will. lotta shock on ur components. there is a reason why most desire a turbo kit over N20. money is the reason why most chose N20 over a turbo cause its cheaper not better.
the majority of fast bikes around the world whether its 1/4 mile or LSR have a Turbo. thats a fact! the majority of them dont chose a Turbo cause its cheaper and for many money is not an option therefore Turbo is the what they chose.
and if u really want to make power throw in C16 and get a race tune. makes far more sense then an over heating big bore kit that has to rely of laughing gas all the time.
yea sure there are some fast ass N20 bikes out there both at the track and street but so what. havn to continue to fill up that bottle and keep it at the right temp to work right is a PITA. especially if ur a street rider like you are.
remember a turbo is smooth brutal power. N20 is abrupt power and is far more likely to break chit then a turbo will. lotta shock on ur components. there is a reason why most desire a turbo kit over N20. money is the reason why most chose N20 over a turbo cause its cheaper not better.
the majority of fast bikes around the world whether its 1/4 mile or LSR have a Turbo. thats a fact! the majority of them dont chose a Turbo cause its cheaper and for many money is not an option therefore Turbo is the what they chose.
1busa
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Been a while since I've posted on here. Still plugging away at my busa tweaking it little by little. I Just recently finished upgrading my fuel system.
Bosch 044 internal fuel pump
Billet Fuel Rail (thanks Busashot)
S2000 Fuel injectors
External billet fuel filter (thanks Gixx1300R)
I also picked up a billet low profile crank case breather, ram air seals, and an Innovate DL-32 wideband/data logger. Figure I can run that paired with the ecu editor to dial my busa in.
I finally have a battle plan so 2 speak as what direction I wanna go 4 achieving some serious HP. Been laying the foundation 4 a while and now things are finally coming 2gether
Bosch 044 internal fuel pump
Billet Fuel Rail (thanks Busashot)
S2000 Fuel injectors
External billet fuel filter (thanks Gixx1300R)
I also picked up a billet low profile crank case breather, ram air seals, and an Innovate DL-32 wideband/data logger. Figure I can run that paired with the ecu editor to dial my busa in.
I finally have a battle plan so 2 speak as what direction I wanna go 4 achieving some serious HP. Been laying the foundation 4 a while and now things are finally coming 2gether
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