stripped oil drain plug

Hi,

first of all the screw thread in the oil pan has the same lead and diameter as a spark plug with 14mm x 1,25mm, e.g. NGK B-8HS. Any NGK B-xyz will do. Try to get one and check that it works.
Once found you can tell the mechanician your looking for a spark plug heli coil. He must know then!

BUT I'd prefer to get a new pan and I will try to explain why:
If you move your little finger in the pan's hole you will notice a long winding of approximately 1 cm. This "tower", extending in the pan, would avoid the running down of ALL the oil in the pan. In addition all the mud and disposal would stay where it shouldn't. To get out of the trap our beloved little Japanese engineers cut a slot into the "tower" from top to bottom.
Means
a) the real winding's thickness is approximately 3mm ( the pan's wall thickness) which is the reason why you can easily crash it without a torque wrench.
b) the heli coil will cover the slot a bit so mud and disposal cannot get off the pan as easy as before

To make a long story short:
Try the heli coil way but don't get upset if the 3rd or 4th or... oil change will show up leaking again.

And - at last - another suggestion on your heli coil trip:
When done put the screw in again, fill about 4 liter of used oil in the motor and bleed it again. Should take all crumbs off then and costs 0 $ :thumbsup:

Hope I could help
D1
+1 on replacing the pan. Just drop the exhaust and have at it. I stripped mine in 2003 because I was in a hurry. I tried to use a helicoil (NAPA part no. 770-3223) and the slotted area caused the oil to eventually leak. Maybe I didn't do it quite right. I still have the kit if you can't find one and want to make an attemp at it.
 
+1 on replacing the pan. Just drop the exhaust and have at it. I stripped mine in 2003 because I was in a hurry. I tried to use a helicoil (NAPA part no. 770-3223) and the slotted area caused the oil to eventually leak. Maybe I didn't do it quite right. I still have the kit if you can't find one and want to make an attemp at it.
I think you are correct.. the helicoil is totally immersed in oil anayway.. the sealing surface is the pan itself..

you can still rip a helicoil out but galling and crystalized threads are history.. it was SOP to drill out any aluminum threads on any of our race stuff and helicoil them or use thread serts right from the start.. (pulling threads in between rounds racing is a terrible way to loose a round).. I was going to helicoil my pan but could not get a kit in time...(not stripped but figure fix it before)
 
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Thanks everyone for your help on this! I got it fixed by using an over sized drain plug made by Motormite. I bought it at Advanced Auto Parts, the part number is either 65209. After you thread the plug it widens the threads in the pan. You never take it out after that, there is another bolt through the middle that you use to drain the oil from. Hopefully it holds up.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-PLUG-Motormite_5019923-P_N3126_A|GRP2037____
 
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great info for future use. i stripped my oil plug awhile back and this coulld of been some useful info at the time. good job :thumbsup:
 
Has anyone on here used a Time sert. Yes, I'm planning on doing this on the bike considering I'm not machanically incline enough to not strip an oil pan. Taking off the whole thing just seems like I'd mess something else up. If someone has what's the sizing, how do you create the channel for draining, what type and size of plug was the replacement, and finally what type of grease did you use?
Thank you, any input is greatly appreciated.
 
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